Failing to Prepare is Preparing to fail

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Thursday, 8 January 2015

Show contents 8th January 2015

Show Notes
This week I start the first show of 2015 with A New Year, then The Cyber Threat, followed by You could Not Make it Up, then the Blizzard Survival 20% Discount Offer, Stashing your Cache, The Gloves are off Post SHTF, the Ribzwear 30% off discount Offer, Ideas to get you Started Prepping, the Wilderness121 10% Discount Offer, How to Make Razors Last Longer, Honey is the BUZZ word, the Midimax 10% Discount Offer, Back Garden Survival Training, the field Leisure 10% Discount Offer, Testing your Survival Plan, the Buggrub 10% Discount Offer, Survival Shelters, The simplest Survival Navigation Technique, How much do you know? The Hunters-Knives 10% Discount Offer, Prepping Means Learning Too, My Survival Meal, My Homemade MRE, The Bug out Week end is coming.
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A New Year
As it is a New Year I always take the time to check my kit and make sure it is as it should be.
I check to see if I replaced any items I used last year and if not, then I make a list of the missing items and plan to replace them.
I also rotate any food stuffs like cereal bars or hot drink sachets just so I know that what is in my kit is within date and ready for when it is needed, some of you might have bug-out-bags that have not been checked for many years.
Replace torch batteries with new ones; make sure the existing batteries have not leaked inside your torch or radio.
I sharpen all my blades just to make sure.
I check all containers for leakage
Then I repack and seal.
I usually try to do this every six months and definitely after it has been used.
The Cyber Threat
A cyber-attack could cripple Britain: Jets falling from the sky. Drinking water poisoned. Nuclear reactors ablaze.
I believe that we have never been as vulnerable to a cyber-attack as we are now, and after this Christmas’s DOS attacks on play station and X box games platforms nothing is safe anymore.
The ever present threat of cyber-attacks is not just something that has had worldwide headlines recently, it is a real threat to our very lives.
Each year, billions is spent by the governments in an attempt to keep privileged information private in the face of increased cyber-attacks, however a recent report by the Associated Press found that at least half of the data breaches that occurred in the last four years were caused by government employees and contractors.
Intelligence officials have said that cybercrime currently trumps terrorism as the biggest threat to the country’s security.
However, an analysis of government records by the AP discovered that efforts to protect sensitive national data are falling short as federal employees continue to undermine defence efforts.
The security incidents are almost always caused by accident, in response to workers visiting websites hosting malware, clicking on malicious links in phishing emails or being tricked into sharing private information through social engineering attacks.
Despite their origins, security events are occurring more frequently than ever and causing major problems.
In the US between 2009 and 2012, the number of federal data breaches reported on .gov and .mil networks grew by almost 20,000 intrusions to a total of 46,605, according to the U.S. Computer Emergency Readiness Team. Last year US-CERT received reports of more than 228,000 cyber incidents.
I think it is "ridiculous" to spend billions of pounds on building up an arsenal of frigates and fighter aircraft only for Britain to neglect an equally vital job of keeping the lights on in the home ports.
Computer war has grown up. It has moved from the age of the equivalent of black powder to the equivalent of high-explosive shells -- not yet nuclear devices but close.
Enemies with sophisticated computer technology, money and determination can now contemplate the possibility of taking down the electrical systems of large parts of the nation.
Just a small interruption in power supply is devastating; as has been demonstrated by regular winter power cuts caused by severe weather.
The world as we know it stops when power fails; fuel cannot be pumped, air conditioning and all other household appliances cannot be used, plunging us into a dark age without the tools of a dark age – candles, firewood, horses and carts.
In fact I reckon that in a few hours, if not minutes or even seconds we would be plunged back into the 1800’s
At the centre of this vulnerability is a device most of us have never heard of but is an essential part of modern infrastructure. It is the programmable logic controller (PLC).
In appearance the PLC is usually a small, black box about the size of a woman's purse. It came on the scene in the 1960s, when microprocessors became available and has grown exponentially in application and deployment ever since.
The full computerization of the PLC put it silently but vitally in charge of nearly every commercial/industrial operation, from assembly lines to power dispatch.
These devices are the brain box of everything from air traffic systems to railways. They replaced old-fashioned relays and human commands, and made automation truly automatic.
The revolution brought on by the PLC is an “ultra-important part” of the continuing story of technological progress, according to Ken Ball, an engineering physicist who has written a history of these devices.
Now the PLC -- this quiet workhorse, this silent servant -- is a cause of worry; not so much from computer hackers, out for a bit of fun through manipulating a single controller, but from the wreckage that can be achieved  in a government-sponsored cyberattack with planning and malice aforethought.
Such an attack could be launched for diverse purposes against many aspects of our society. But the most paralyzing would be an attack on the electrical system; on the controllers that run power plant operations and the grid, from coal to nuclear to natural gas to wind turbines and other renewables.
Such a coordinated attack could bring the UK to its knees for days or weeks with traffic jams, abandoned cars, closed airports and hospitals reliant on emergency generators while fuel supplies last.
For this to happen, the hostile force would need to able to get around many firewalls and what are called “sandboxes,” where malware is trapped when detected.
The evidence of how effective attacks on controllers can be lies in Iran and two U.S./Israeli programs (worms, which have been used against the nuclear enrichment plant at Natanz. The first worm was launched specifically at a single type of controller, made by the German company Siemens and deployed in the Natanz plant.
A slip let some of the worm be detected on the Internet by American security companies like Symantec. They named it Stuxnet.
So far Stuxnet has been able to cause the destruction of about 1,000 of the 5,000 Iranian centrifuge enrichment devices. This was done by running them at unsafe speeds, while telling the operators that all was well.
A second worm, called Flame, has been trolling though Iranian computers, sending back critical information on military and scientific secrets. This fiendishly clever operation was launched under President George W. Bush with the code name Olympic Games. But it has been ramped up by President Barack Obama, according to David Sanger of The New York Times.
How safe are our computers and those little black boxes that control everything from traffic lights to chocolate manufacture? Well a former technology expert at the CIA said that cybersecurity is the top worry of defence planners: It is “ultra” critical, he told me.
We now live in a world in which devastation can be inflicted by the evil on the unprepared without a shot being fired.
So fellow preppers and survivalists we need to treat a cyber-attack in the same way as we prepare for an EMP or CME event, in other words an extended power cut.
And the time to prepare is NOW!
You could Not Make it Up
A Department of Homeland Security report has described as “right-wing extremists” those who oppose abortion and support secure national borders, another report is revealing that the Department of Defence is teaching that protesters are “low-level terrorists.”
The newest action to define those who disagree with positions adopted by the government or administration of the United States
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Stashing your Cache
A survival cache is a hidden stock of goods you’ll need in an emergency. It’s pronounced “cash,” and it comes from the French word for “hide.” It’s a “hide.” So of course you hide your cache.
I would like to look at where and how to hide your survival cache, and of course how to find it again.
Firstly please bear in mind that none of the methods I will mention are totally fool proof. If the state sets its mind to find your stuff, it has tremendous resources at its disposal, including ground-search radar, economic leverage (seizing your property), and unsavoury interrogation methods.
But let’s be practical — if the state is directing that level of resources against you, you’ll probably be in custody anyway, so access to a cache will be a moot point. These methods will effectively protect your cache from accidental discovery and even reasonably systematic searches by scavengers and opportunists.
Principles of Hiding a Cache
There are three principles you need to learn: Disguise, distraction, and concealment.
Disguise is where you make your cache look like something it isn’t. You can hide tinned food, tools, and weapons in a bin labelled “chicken feed,” for example. Just place the stuff in the bottom of the bin and cover it with chicken feed.
An effective form of distraction is the use of decoys and “false positives.” A decoy is what you want someone to find instead of your cache, so after you’ve hidden the cache you want for yourself, you can place another one that’s more easily found.
That way the thief or whoever will make off with whatever you’re willing to sacrifice, safeguarding what really matters. For example, bury your cache two or three feet in the ground, then tuck the decoy under some roots and partially cover it with leaves.
A “false positive” is pure distraction — a failure for the thief. Your cache can most likely be found with a metal detector. If you bury guns and ammo, bury them under a junk pile or collapsed barn for example. All the scrap metal will make a metal detector useless, and a digging operation becomes a random search.
You can also scatter scrap metal like buried bits of rebar and junk iron. This is controversial — it might signal the alert scavenger that he’s close to scoring. He might give up as night falls, or a storm approaches, but if he’s determined he’ll watch the area, and you’ll have to be very careful about your recovery methods.
Another way to generate a false positive is simply to prepare an empty cache. Consider a scavenger on the hunt. You have two caches, one full, the other empty. By deliberate search he finds your empty cache. His likely response is to figure the stash has already been depleted, and move on.
But even if he assumes he’s been fooled, he might well abandon the search in frustration and seek easier targets. If he stumbles across your real cache, well, you should have done a better job of setting the decoy, but you’ll then have to rely on redundancy.
Concealment is that which impedes visual acquisition of your cache. Burial is the paradigm of concealment. Camouflage is a type of concealment in which your cache is made to blend in visually with its surroundings. If you paint a PVC tube brown and grey and hang it in a tree, it will be visually difficult to distinguish from the tree trunk, unless you know right where to look. Just an idea.
Or imagine trying to spot a white PVC tube in a field of snow even with binoculars. You could frankly set a grey case in the open on a rocky mountain slope and expect to find it undisturbed many years later.
Strategic Location
The caches must be located along your path of travel, and within sustainable intervals. These intervals must account for your mode of travel. If you’re driving, you should place fuel caches in intervals you can cover with no more than 3/4 tank of fuel.
On foot, the primary consideration is water. In areas with plenty of surface water, 3- to 5-day intervals are entirely doable, assuming you have the means to purify the water you find on the way. You can even go longer if necessary; it just depends on how much food and water you can carry.
On the other hand, if you’re in a dry climate and have to carry your water, your caches must be staged as frequently as necessary to replenish your water supply.
You can only carry so much, and how much you need depends on the heat. In case you have to bug out in the hot dry season, figure a gallon per day, and in extreme heat, that might not do it.
If you’re “bugging in,” most of your caches will be close, and the primary considerations will be concealment and recovery.
Be careful about hiding your cache in areas subject to flooding.
Urban and Rural Caches
In rural locations you need to use natural features for concealment. Overhangs, caves, trees, stumps, abandoned vehicles and buildings, and simple burial are your best friends.
In urban locations your ability to conceal your cache depends to some extent on how well you know the movements and habits of the indigenous population. Identify buildings that don’t get much traffic. Coordinate with like-minded neighbours, but also keep some entirely to yourself.
The key here is understanding ingress and egress. Ingress is when you go to the cache, and egress is when you leave it. Assume a scavenger is watching you. He’ll see you go into the woods with an empty bag, and come out laden with sardines, hard tack, and medicine. What do you think he’ll do when you’re gone?
Never approach the same cache by the same path. Never leave the cache by the same path you took to it. Check six (look behind you) frequently for a tail on ingress and egress. If possible, have a spotter.
Put a team member on a viewpoint who can watch your progress to and from the cache, and spot a tail. Of course, you’ll need some form of communication.
Plan your cache placement with ingress and egress in mind. In a rural setting, enter the woods a good ways from the cache, and travel under the canopy to the cache.
Your exit from the woods should likewise be far from the cache, but from another direction. Although counterintuitive, cloud cover is not your friend.
The higher contrast of direct sunlight makes your progress through the woods stealthier, so go to your cache on sunny days, if you can. Obviously, the darkness of night is the best cover, but it makes travel more difficult and dangerous.
The same concepts apply in an urban setting. If your cache is in an abandoned building, for example, use different entrances to the building.
Here’s another counterintuitive point. In an urban or suburban setting, travel in daytime for greater stealth, and in small numbers, or alone. Mobs at night attract attention.
By the way, it should go without saying that you need some way to find your caches again. Don’t trust your memory; you need a map. OPSEC dictates that your map be coded somehow, and that you have two or more, none of which indicates the location of all your caches.
Within any given sustainable interval, maintain two or three caches in case one is discovered before you need it. For example, if you have a cache three days from your previous cache, you might arrive there only to find it has been looted. Be sure you have another near enough that you can resupply. You might never use it, but if you need it, you’ll thank God you had the foresight to stash it.
The Gloves are off Post SHTF
I say that Post SHTF the gloves are off as regards shooting game and even large domesticated farm animals.
Meat and animal products is what we get from livestock so even if you do not eat meat animals still have to be kept for eggs, milk, cheese and other dairy products, which we need to make up a healthy diet.
They are a very good source of protein and I can tell you that things do not seem so bad when you are tucking into a beef steak or a lamb joint.
The feed to production ratio value of your animals is basically like this. Poultry good, Pigs & Sheep medium, Cattle poor.
Poultry eat a mainly grain diet so that is expensive but this can be supplemented with natural feed when free ranging.
Any switch from high value grain to natural feed will lower the feed to meat and egg production ratio, but the switch to a varied natural feed can produce a higher quality product.
Pigs also eat a grain diet but this can be supplemented quite well with waste fruit and vegetables, and also natural feed when free ranging.
Sheep eat mainly grass but if producing black faced hardy sheep, these will eat almost all kinds of vegetation from the poorest of land, so even though their feed costs are low they still put weight on but slower than more expensively reared quality grass sheep.
Cattle require expensive quality grass to produce anything and will also require expensive winter feed and purpose built winter housing, producing anything from cattle takes many months and masses of expense and time.
Everything will depend on how big the operation is.
Many years ago I shot a mallard drake from across the river, the mistake I made was I was on the wrong bank when I shot it, and this meant that I had to cross the river to retrieve it, nevertheless it did eventually end up on my plate and all was well.
For decades game has been the preserve of the wealthy as they purchase days shooting on estates with driven game (a bit like shooting rats in a barrel) sometimes, I think.
The guy in the street “us” has been legally removed from these shoots except that we are good enough only to pick up what has been shot and beat, it seems.
Well as I said when SHTF “WE” assume the survivor rights of ancient times, yes we must provide for our own. Now with years of battery breeding of game birds we have a chemical drug free food source just running around free.
I’m afraid that any ethics will have to be over ridden as obtaining this free food is the priority and in many ways and not the way we get it. 
So lamping roosting pheasants and wood pigeons will be the norm instead of deploying decoy’s and building hides etc.
I’m sure many preppers and survivalists know what I mean and would agree with my sentiments.
And yes, water fowl and game birds will be shot on the ground and on the water as well.
As for large domestic farm animals they too will need to be on our menu either shot of dispatched with a quick blow to head with a heavy object. Imagine how long we would survive with a cow or sheep to keep us going.
Fish farms would be a logical target as would free range chicken farms.
I would also advocate the live capture of the above; including game birds and water fowl so as to breed our own food, the benefit being that most of these animals and birds feed themselves do they not.
It is criminal to take the life of an animal and waste it, for me it is also morally wrong too. 
If you keep animals for food and then after slaughtering it you decide you can’t eat it and end up throwing it away, then you have wasted that animals life and killed it for no reason other than some half-baked idea that you could be self-sufficient or rear your own food.
This does happen to some people who then rush down to the supermarket for a pound of sausages. If you find you have become attached to your animals which happens quite a lot, then don't kill them, keep them as pets which they most probably will have become.
Best thing to do is work out exactly what you think you can achieve and stick to it and not get carried away by popular fads. 
Either do it or stick to growing vegetables and let someone else produce the meat.
Growing fruit and vegetables is always going to be cheaper, simpler, easier and a lot less hassle than trying to produce your own meat.
Yes the gloves would be off.
A front pack is a pack or bag that allows for access of equipment from the persons chest. Front packs first and foremost allow for easy access of gear without the removal of any equipment.
In many adventure outdoor activities it can be critical to the sport to have the ability to reach essential gear fast without the removal of a backpack. Simplicity is the foremost purpose of the front pack but there are many additional benefits as well.
In all there are unlimited uses for the front pack. Front packs are the best compliment to any outdoorsman’s gear when accessibility, functionality, mobility and simplicity are required. From horseback riding, long distance biking, motorcycling and kayaking.
All sports where fast and easy access of gear is essential, a front pack is your best solution and as you can imagine it is going down a storm within the prepping and survivalist community.
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Ideas to get you Started Prepping
You may think it can never happen to you. But all it takes is a quick look at the news to realize chances are good that at some point in the near future you will find yourself in some sort of emergency situation.
It may be as localized as a flood or as widespread as a pandemic. The important thing is that whatever you do now to prepare for a disaster will put you ahead of the game when it hits.
With that in mind, here are some simple ideas to get you started down the road to being prepared for any emergency?
Plan your evacuation ahead of time and share it with family and close friends. Know the location of where you will be going and contact information once you are there. Plan several routes to your destination in case one or more of them become shut down.
Plan and practice two ways to evacuate your house in the event of an emergency such as a fire or home attack. Have everyone meet at a specific location, such as a tree or neighbour’s driveway that is a safe distance from the house.
Have an out of area contact person that each member of the family can contact. This way, if you are ever separated from the group then the contact person, who is in touch with everybody, can help reunite you.
Have a bug out bag at the ready. Keep a bug out bag for each member of the family. The contents should have enough provisions for at least three days but be light enough to easily carry.
Include food, water, flashlight/torch, clothing as needed, knife, etc.  Make sure you prepare for the special needs of young children or elder adults and don’t forget any pets.
For items like medicines or perishables, make a list of the items you need to collect and leave it in that individual’s bug out bag.
Keep all your important documents together in a secure place. If possible, store them where they will be protected from fire and water damage. They could be placed in a Ziploc bag and stored in a fireproof box.
Make sure you have the proper insurance you need. Most disasters are relatively short lived events and you will have some peace of mind knowing that even if your home and possessions are destroyed you will have the resources available to rebuild.
Keep receipts and pictures of your valuables with your insurance policy. Either leave all of this in a water and fire proof container or make sure you take it with you if you decide to leave.
Keep cash on hand. In the event of an emergency, credit and debit card readers may not function. Should you need to purchase any supplies, you will be out of luck without cash.
Continue to upgrade your preparations. Always strive for improvements. Be aware of the most likely type of disaster you will encounter and learn as much as you can about how it will affect you.
For example, if you live on a flood plain, learn all you can about being prepared for floods. If you live where heavy winter snow is likely, learn about preparedness for this event.
If you plan to weather the storm or emergency in place, make sure you have plenty of water on hand. Fill your bath and as many containers as you possibly can.
Keep an extra week’s supply of food stashed away in your pantry. This should be food that you normally eat, but not that which is perishable.
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How to Make Razors Last Longer
Anyone who shaves – and this includes men’s beards as well as women and their legs – knows two things.  One, razor blades are very expensive and two, a blunt razor blade will cut you up and result in a big bloody mess.
I heard recently that the mark up on men’s wet razors was around 5.000%
In a survival situation personal hygiene is paramount and must be practiced daily.
I recently learned of a new technique and after testing with three separate razors, I can tell you that it really works.
I have heard of a new method of sharpening a blunt razor blade that is so very simple that I am surprised more people don’t know about it.
Firstly clean your razor in a little cup of soapy water.  Let it sit for a while so that all of the old goo and gunk float away.
Dry your razor by shaking away excess moisture then wiping it off with a.
Going in the opposite of your normal shaving direction, run the razor across some blue jean material about 20 times.  This is called stropping. Remember, you want to run the razor blade backwards!
That’s it – as I said simple.
When I finished sharpening the razor blades, I tested it by having a shave and it was really sharp and did a great job.
I like to save money just as much as the next person, and with this method you can double the life of your razors and that can’t be bad can it, oh! And think of the money you will save too.
I do not know how many times can you re-sharpen the razor blades?  Time will tell but if you ask me, my best guess is that you can re-sharpen then at least twice, if not more.  It certainly is worth a try.
Honey is the BUZZ word
Honey has long been a valued foodstuff.  Unlike sugar cane and other sources of sweetness, the work is just about all done for you.  You don’t have to plant, weed, or harvest anything.  You let the bees do what God programmed them to do and you get a share. 
Being the good little preppers that they are, they store about 3 times more honey than they need to survive the winter.
Honey has been eaten by humans for about as long as anyone can remember.  There are hieroglyphic records that reference it all the way back to at least 2400 B.C.  
It is mentioned in the Bible many times and was often the gift of choice.  It was even buried with the pharaohs in their pyramids so they could have it in their afterlife.
Honey was so valued that Roman citizens could use honey to pay their taxes.  This practice was continued in various places up through the 11th century when German peasants could pay in honey or beeswax, which was important in candle-making. 
Napoleon esteemed bees so much that he had them embroidered onto his flag and clothing.
What exactly is Honey?
Honeybees visit hundreds of flowers a day to gather nectar and pollen.  They store the liquid nectar in a special stomach where it mixes with enzymes and proteins produced by the bee. 
When they are loaded down, they return to the hive and deposit their haul into the cells of honeycomb.  The honey is then fanned by the bees’ wings to evaporate much of the water and thicken the product.  The result is honey.
Chemically, honey is composed of sugars (a balance of fructose and glucose), but it is also fortified with minerals like magnesium, potassium, calcium, sulphur, iron, and phosphate.  It usually also contains B vitamins, but the exact composition, like the colour of the honey, will depend on what kind of flowers the bees visited to gather the nectar.  Typically, the darker the honey, the more nutritious and healthful it is.
What is available in the shops under brand names is usually pasteurized honey.  It has been filtered and heat-treated.  While this process produces a very uniform and sterile product, it may also remove or inactivate some of the great properties of honey.  Raw honey sometimes even contains beneficial bacteria like lactobacilli and bifidobacteria.
The Uses of Honey
We are all pretty familiar with its most common use- as a sweetener- but there is a lot more to honey than that.
It may surprise you to know that honey has medicinal qualities.  It acts as an anti-microbial agent and it often applied to wounds like burns.  I have read it is used in Iraq to treat injured children in the warzones.  It is said to have an anti-inflammatory effect also, so it eases swelling and allows tissues to repair themselves.  Scientists are looking into its effectiveness against MRSA. E. coli, and Candida (fungus).
In Europe honey is used to treat stomach ulcers.  It is an oft-prescribed remedy for sore throats too, especially if added to hot tea.  Many people use it to help get rid of respiratory infections also.
If you are a seasonal allergy sufferer, local raw honey may be just the solution for you.  Because some of the pollen from local flowers will be present in the honey that is ingested, many people report that their sensitivities and histamine responses to pollen in the air is greatly reduced.
Honey is a good source of anti-oxidants and so may help in preventing heart disease and cancer.
Why Should Preppers Consider Stocking Honey or Keeping Bees?
Honey stays stable for a very long time.  It was found in Egyptian tombs when archaeologists opened them up and it was still safely edible.  It may crystallize if it becomes too cold, but warming it will turn it back into its familiar state.
Honey can be used in place of most other sweeteners (like sugar) with some minor recipe modifications.  Sugar cane can only be grown in a few places, but with some protection, bees could be kept in most places.
Keeping honeybees would be a great way to make sure your garden and orchard get pollinated also.  You don’t get fruit without pollination and many bee populations have been great reduced.
One last consideration- sweets are a treat almost everyone looks forward to.  They will be a great morale booster as well as a being a really good barter item!
Back Garden Survival Training
So you are off on your holidays, you board the plane dressed for the Mediterranean, flip flops, T-shirt and shorts.
You forget that you must fly over the snow topped Alp’s to get to the sunny beaches of the Med.
So what if the plane went down and you survived? Modern air travel today inside an aluminium tube which is warm and were they serve food and drinks as you watch the latest film misleads us into a false sense of security. OK in the vast majority of cases nothing goes wrong. But as I have said what if?
Or a short wilderness trip turns into a nightmare of days wandering lost, or you got lost on a hunting trip, camping trip or your vehicle breaks down in some remote area. This is how you end up lost or stranded in most cases.
The point is you arrived there somehow, in something, on something and with something such as a backpack with a few essentials if you are very lucky.
The deciding factor on whether you survive or not, are the things you arrived with. Will you be empty handed as well as empty-headed if you find yourself lost or stranded?
You need materials for survival but the thing you need the most are skills. The knowledge and the skills you carry in your head may very well decide your fate.
Knowledge and the ability to apply that knowledge will keep you alive. Skills will keep you alive when your gear fails or materials are not to be had in your backpack.
Watching videos on YouTube on how it is done is not applying knowledge, but practicing is applying knowledge and you need to practice in a controlled environment before it is a life or death situation, were mistakes are a learning tool and not a death knell. Your back garden is the starting point.
Basic Survival Skills You Can Practice In Your Back Garden
Your back garden is where you can practice your skills to gain the confidence and know without hesitation that you can survive if you become lost or stranded in a wilderness environment or in any environment for that matter.
Pull out your tarps, ponchos and even an old parachute and start practicing. Look at various ways of using your tarp or poncho as shelters.
Remember with a survival shelter the idea is to make it wind and rain proof.
You can string a line and drape the material over the line and stake down for a classic pup tent style, or gather some saplings and construct a teepee using the tarp, poncho, plastic or parachute as cover for it.
 You need to learn to construct a shelter to cover you from rain, snow or sun, before you find yourself lost or stranded.
Archery/Slingshot/Spear Skills
You could of course practice with rifles and pistols, but Archery, Slingshots and Spears are slient as well as deadly.
Safety first, and this means no children or pets in the back garden, while practicing and that you have sufficient backstop materials for the projectiles.
OK firearms are not always available but you can make a longbow, slingshot and spear from materials on you and from what you find in your environment.
Obviously the way to ensure you have the means to hunt is to make sure you never leave on an outdoor adventure without a bow or a crossbow (folding ones are available that can be carried in a pack), without a slingshot and the means to cut a sapling and sharpen into a spear.
The question is can you hit your target with an arrow, or do you only think you can, so find out if you can. Then make sure through practice that you can always bring game down with a bow if needed and the same applies to the slingshot, practice will make perfect.
Spears in most cases would be ideal for “spear fishing” or for self-defence against animals or humans.
Unless, the spear is well crafted and balanced properly throwing a spear to kill game is not very productive, but it is one more tool in your survival toolbox and you never will know until you do practice.
Fire Starting
Practically anyone can start a fire on a nice sunny day, with matches and a lighter, but can you do it when the wind is blowing, when it is raining, snowing, or icing up. Can you make a fire without matches or a lighter? Now is the time to find out before you need too.
If you do not have a magnesium stick and/or a Ferro rod, you need to get both and begin practicing. Practice starting fires using a Ferro rod and cotton balls soaked in Vaseline or alcohol based hand sanitizer, or use alcohol wipes from your first aid kit.
Know what works best for you. Petroleum jelly, cotton balls, dry tinder, char cloth, flint, and steel can all be used to create fire under any weather conditions. Make sure you know how to start a fire with any materials available to you. Make sure all materials are available by making sure they are in your pack.
Foraging For Food Edibles in Your Backyard
Unless you routinely spray herbicides to kill weeds in your yard, you can find edibles weeds growing at practically any time of the year.  These same weeds can be found in a wilderness environment as well, and what better place to learn to identify the edible ones than in your own back garden.
The following is just a sampling of what you may find in your back garden. The list is common weeds and even flowers that are edible and can be found in your garden and in many wilderness environments.
Make sure you research carefully before picking and eating any plant and have reliable pictures for reference of all the plants.
Dandelion – Most everyone can identify a dandelion and the plant can be eaten at any stage of growth. The roots are edible as well, and many make tea/beverages out of the roots.
Burdock – People spend countless hours and money trying to eradicate this invasive weed, which by the way, is grown in many parts of the world for eating and is considered a delicacy. The roots are especially sought after in many cultures.
Stinging Nettles Delicious eaten or brewed into a tea, just be careful of the stinging nettles.
Primrose - Some consider primrose evasive while other encourages it for its white and yellow flowers, but the flowers can be eaten or steeped to make a flavourful tea as well.
Here is a link to a new E-book on edible UK plants.
Outdoor Cooking
If lost or stranded, you will have to cook over open flames so what better place to practice than over a campfire in your own back garden.
Food cannot just be tossed into the coals or flames and then dragged out when you think it may be done. Learn how to fashion cooking grates using green saplings, or use flat heated rocks as frying or cooking surfaces.
You may think you know how to cook, because the microwave is handy, but it takes some knowledge and skill to cook over an open flame in all kinds of weather.
These are just a few of the skills needed to survive. With some imagination, you can come up with other skills that maybe needed, and when you do, start practicing them so you can master the art of survival.
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Testing your Survival Plan
Just like most preppers, I carry a small backpack with me everywhere I go, it is my EDC It’s in the passenger foot well if I am on my own and on the back seat if there is someone else in the car with me. It’s on my back when I take a walk through the woods. I don’t go anywhere without it. I call it my security blanket as just having with me it brings a sense of comfort.
In it, I carry my just-in-case supplies. I have my survival kit, my first aid kit, my survival knife, some homemade MRE’s, rain gear, and an assortment of other items that I may need in case of an emergency.
Whether I’m stranded on the side of the road or lost in the woods while hiking, these items will help make my unplanned adventure much more pleasant. 
Along with my backpack I also have a basic car survival kit which I check regularly and if I have to travel in bad weather it too will be in the car with me and not in the boot.
You Can’t Just Read About It
There are a lot of prepper web sites that describe how to make a good bug-out-bag or get-home-bag. There are even entire books on the subject. Those resources are great places to start thinking about the contents of your bag.
Sometimes new preppers will read through those lists and think that everyone should include everything on the list. If a little is good, a lot is better. 
But those resources are not the final word on the subject. You should customize and personalize your bag to meet your needs, not the needs of someone else.
What I need in my pack will be different than what you may need in your pack. My experiences and knowledge are different that your’s.
I’ll want to include items that augment my experiences and you’ll want to do the same. The scenarios that I’m preparing for may be different than what you are likely to experience in your life.
I live in a rural community and my daily commute takes me down back roads. I also spend a fair amount of time in the woods hiking and camping. My bag is designed with that lifestyle in mind. If you live in an urban setting and ride the train to work each day, your bag will likely be different than mine.
The gear that we choose to keep in our bags will be different based on our skills and our expected uses or possible needs for the bag.
Testing Your Bag
After you’ve put together your bag, it’s important to test it. It’s only through a simulated emergency that you’ll truly discover items that are missing from your supplies. You’ll also identify items that you don’t need to carry, that are providing little benefit but are adding weight and bulk to your bag.
I like to test myself and my survival pack regularly. I hike into the woods a short distance, perhaps a 1/2 mile or so, carrying only my survival backpack. I usually make a debris hut, start a fire, and prepare to spend the evening in the woods using only the items in my pack.
Since this is only a test, I usually have some additional supplies in my car, better safe than sorry. If I truly need them, I can always hike the 1/2 mile out to the vehicle and get them. I try not to do that, but I have done it on occasion.
Over this past weekend, I made one such outing. It went very well. Here are a few observations from my experiences that may help as you’re putting together a pack or planning a test.
Emergency Thermal Blanket. Although I carry an emergency thermal blanket in my survival kit, I apparently don’t really know how to use it to keep warm.
It was cold over the weekend, considerably colder than the meteorologists predicted and I used my thermal blanket for warmth. It didn’t work.  The survival blanket has other purposes: signalling, rain collection, waterproofing a shelter, etc. 
Insulate the Shelter and then Add More Insulation. As I have said many times before smaller shelters are better when it’s cold. Your body heat can warm a smaller shelter and keep you warm.
However, it’s very important to make sure the shelter is insulated very well. Add a good layer of leaves to your shelter and when you think you have added enough, add twice that much.
Pine boughs are Good Insulation from the Ground. The earth will steal much needed heat from your body if you lie directly on the ground. A good layer of insulation is needed to keep you off the ground and away from the earth. A thick layer of pine boughs works well for this.
Speed Kills. When building a shelter in cold weather, work at a slow and steady pace, taking breaks as frequently as need to cool down. Strip off layers of clothing to help regulate your body heat and prevent perspiration. Sweat will wet your clothes and make you that much colder in the middle of the night.
Like every aspect of prepping and survival, you must practice, practice and then practice some more.
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Survival Shelters
If you find yourself in a survival situation in a wilderness environment then one of the most important survival skills to have is the knowledge and ability to build a shelter.
In a survival situation shelter is more important than water, food or even fire, shelter will protect you from the elements and that is your first priority.
So where do you build your shelter, if you have a choice that is? How do you build it and what do you build it out of? So I want to cover shelters with tarps, shelters when a tarp is not available, and snow shelters.
So let’s begin with finding the proper location for your shelter as I say, if you have a choice that is.
The first and most important thing is choosing the right site for building your shelter. There are many variables involved here, here are some things to look for, and some things to avoid.
Look for
Dry land
As flat as possible
Has a nearby supply of firewood and building supplies
Is close enough to water to carry it to base, but far enough that you won’t be bothered by insects
Provides cover against the wind
Try to avoid
Low ground can collect cold air. Go for higher ground if possible, but land that is protected from wind.
Rivers can flood; avoid dry river beds or places too close to a river.
Don’t build a shelter underneath anything that can fall on you, check for standing dead wood and avoid it.
Before we get to the shelters, you need to know how to build a sleeping area, a skill you will need for most of them.
You want to make sure you’re sleeping on dry ground that isn’t cold. Make a bed with things like dry grass and spruce twigs. Make your bed at least 18 inches thick so that you don’t feel the ground beneath it.
If you have a sleeping bag, good place it on top of the bed.
Sleeping close to others is a good way to preserve heat. Skin to skin contact is the best way to do this, so if you needed another reason to get naked with someone inside of a sleeping bag, there it is.
These two methods incorporate a tarp into your shelter. One is for protection from heat, the other is for protection from rain.
Making a Sun Shelter
This shelter is meant to supply a cool area to rest in very hot climates. It works by creating a layer of insulation that keeps the heat out, as well as a shaded area to rest. You will need two tarps (or a large on that can be folded over). The lighter in colour and the shinier the better, as it will reflect sunlight better.
Find a low spot on the ground. If possible, dig a hole to get an even greater lowering of temperature.
Drive four stakes around your spot.
Spread out the first tarp, and use string to tie the tarp to the stakes, a few feet off of the ground. The lower the better, but you want to be comfortable inside of it.
Spread out the second tarp, and tie it to the stakes a foot above the first.
Crawl under your tarps and enjoy temperatures 5-15 degrees lower than outside.
Making a Rain Shelter
This shelter is very common; if you’re a camper you have probably used it yourself. Its goal is keep an area dry when it’s a-raining hard.
The concept is pretty simple. Attach a line to two separate points above head level over the spot you want to keep dry.
Place the tarp over this line diagonally, so that there are corners at each end of the line, and on the middle of the sides that hang over each side of the line.
Tie the corners that hang over each end to a line, then tie these lines to a spot lower than the first line.
The end result should be a triangle-shaped cover over your area, where rain will run down and fall over the sides (avoiding water build up). It will keep the area underneath it dry.
Of course survival shelters don’t require a tarp, if you are caught out with no equipment then what do you do? Well nature provides everything you will need to make an all-purpose shelter which will keep you warm and dry.
The lean-to Shelter
Lean-to Shelters are the more basic wilderness shelter. They have a leaning wall that protects against the wind, and should have a fire on the open-end of the shelter to maximize warmth.
Find two trees a few feet apart.
Find another thick branch, log, or other object that is longer than the gap between the trees and is fairly sturdy.
Find a way to lay the long object across the trees, just over head level. The ideal is for both trees to have branches on the same side at roughly the same height.
Another idea is using cordage to tie the object to the trees or if you are lucky to have forks in the trees then simply wedge the cross piece into them.
Find various sticks, branches and pieces of wood. Lay them against the long object, at an angle with the ground. This should give you a wall that leans maybe 45 degrees or so.
Cover this wall with leaves, pine needles, or any other object that supplies insulation, when you think you have enough leaves etc. put double that amount again onto the lean-to. Then place more sticks or branches to prevent the wind blowing the leaves away.
Make a sleeping area inside of your shelter just like I mentioned for the tarp shelter.
Make a fire pit and start a fire at the open end of the shelter, if possible make a reflector to direct more heat from the fire back at you.
This is also a great way to dry any wet wood as well.
The Debris Hut
This shelter is a little more complex, but still fairly simple to put together.
Find a log or pole that is roughly twice your height in length. Lay this log against an object such as a rock or tree. The log should sit at angle, at its highest point giving you space to sit in plus a little extra.
Make a sleeping spot in the large side of your shelter.
Find some other branches, and set them up at an angle along the log like an upside down V.
Cover your shelter with leaves, pine branches, etc. Anything that will supply insulation. Make sure to leave an opening to enter and exit.
To make this type of shelter even warmer fill the inside space with leaves loads of them even wet ones if you have to then crawl in.
The idea here is to insulate your body so the smaller the shelter the easier it will be to warm the area with your own body heat.
This section is for the specific scenario of cold, snowy environments. Cold environments are very dangerous, and building a good shelter can ward off hypothermia and save your life. Here is a brief introduction to two of the types of shelters that can be made in such an environment.
Making a Snow Cave.
If you have access to a large pile of snow, a snow cave is an option. Using a shovel, try to compact the snow as much as possible.
Use your shovel to dig an entrance into the pile. After you get a few feet in, start to dig upward. The goal is to create a sitting/lying area large enough for you to fit in.
This area should be a few feet above the entrance area, as this will stop cold air from entering and will keep the heat trapped in the upper area.
Poke a few holes from the inside to the outside of the hill. This is important for air circulation. But be gentle so as not to affect the structural integrity of your shelter.
Be very cautious as these types of shelters can collapse. Keep some of your bags outside of your shelter, so that search crews can find you in an emergency.
How much do you know?
As a PREPPER you will need to be 100% self-sufficient as it may be that you are isolated from other survivors for years.
Here are some ideas for you to consider.
HOW many of you are constantly learning new skills?
How many are involving your children in this process?
Remember that children’s brains are like a sponge so they will absorb much more than you and at a faster rate.
How many people have a large collection of HOW TO Books? Have you got any of these books?
Books on hunting
Books on Survival
Books on growing food
Books on soil
Books on building from wood to steel
Books on how to make steel, iron, tools etc.
Books on tinctures
Books on cooking
Books on plants and trees
Books on herbal medicines
Books on human body physiology
Books on fasting
Books on Poisonous Snakes and insects and HOW to do First Aid the list goes on and on ...
How many people have done a First Aid course?
How many people know what CPR is and how to perform it?
How many people know HOW to treat a snake bite?
How many people "KNOW" how to do the following?
Building log cabins
Metal working
Constructing underground tunnels
Extracting Oil from plants
Making bows and arrows
Making natural glue
Make flour from different plants (not just wheat)
Make tinctures
Extracting birch tree oil
Make charcoal
How many people have several of the following?
Round wood saws
Single and double person wood saws
Many files for sharpening the above
Manually powered Wood lathe IF possible
How many people have prepared the land around their bunker or home for growing organic food?
Adding organic matter (cow manure etc.) into the soil.
Adding powdered rock dust (AKA: minerals) at least 2 + yards down into the soil.
How many people have created natural defences around their home (or know how to) using things like 2 or 3 layers of different trees with Passive Normal Trees on the outside and then a second layer inside made up of Attack Trees which are made up of plants with thorns, spines and prickles.
Then inside this layer you can run a barbed wire this way when someone runs into this at night, you will certainly know about it.
How many people have studied NATURAL medicine and this includes HERBAL medicine and pressure points?
How many people know what herbal medicine is?
How many people know that PINE Trees have natural Vitamin C and that Pine Bark is also abundant with Vitamin C.?
Did you know that Vitamin C deficiency has been one of the biggest killers of humans through our known history and yet in most cases where people had access to Pine Trees, almost no one utilized this powerful disease fighting natural medicine?
How many people KNOW that just by standing out in the sun for approx. 40 minutes a day you can get all the Vitamin D you need to stop over 90% of cancers and sickness (and it is FREE), Plus it also has been said to stop babies being born with rickets.
How many people know that by drinking RAW unprocessed cow’s milk, you can rebuild your teeth and bones? How many people have a milking cow or 3 on their land? How many actually have some land?
How many people have several EXIT tunnels from their bunker? How many even have bunkers?
There are 101 things I could list here but I hope that you get the picture.
Whatever you think you know now is NOT enough.
How many of you have actually spent a FAMILY WEEK living next to a river or creek and surviving off the land so that you can make a list of all of the things you will need WHEN you really do need to KNOW implicitly how to do these things.
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Prepping Means Learning Too
Does owning a computer make you a computer programmer? Of course not. What about standing in a kitchen? Does that make you a chef? No, definitely not. And despite what some people may think, owning a handgun does not make you a criminal or a murderer.
The same principles hold true for preppers.
Getting Started
Way back in 1980 I remember having a series of “ah-ha” moments when I first began to recognize the need for prepping. I distinctly remember feeling overwhelmed at the amount of stuff that I felt I needed to buy.
I didn’t have enough food to last our family for a couple of weeks, much less six months. I didn’t have any water beyond the few bottles in the fridge etc.
And the only ammunition we had was that which was left over after last hunting season. Wow! I needed to buy, buy, buy.
And that’s what I did. I budgeted, saved, and bought. I started buying a little bit more each time I shopped if tins of green beans were on sale, I’d buy an extra one, two, even ten tins of them. If I had coupons for an item that I needed, I bought it.
I began to slowly acquire some additional items that I may need as well. On each payday, I’d buy more rounds of ammunition or bandages and other medical supplies and equipment.
I slowly started to acquire prepping supplies. But that wasn’t enough.
Knowledge is Power
It didn’t take long for me to realize that there was more to prepping than acquiring stuff. As good as that is, it’s not enough.
I began to dive into research like I was preparing to defend the planet. I read about food storage techniques. I investigated how I could become more self-sufficient.
I began learning more primitive skills. I learned fire building techniques, how to tie useful knots, and how to hunt and dress animals. I learned navigational skills and what should go into a bug-out-bag.
The majority of the skills I were learning were complementary to one another. But I did have some overlap and cross-training. I attended a wilderness medical training classes.
I was growing as a prepper.
Perfect Practice Makes Perfect
Supplies and knowledge are a great start. It’s more than the vast majority of people have done and if you stop there, you’re still way ahead of the curve.
But there’s more that you can do to prepare. I’ve mentioned this many times before in various posts but it’s worth mentioning again.
You’ve got to practice your skills. An analogy illustrates my point. I can buy an abdominal exercise machine. I can even read the instruction manual and watch the video that comes with the machine.
But until I start using it, there will be no change to my appearance. The equipment and knowledge will help me to prepare to get in shape, but it’s not until I start using the machine that my body will respond.
Equipment and knowledge are good first steps, but you’ve got to put your knowledge and supplies to use.
Store what you eat and eat what you store. Practice building fires without matches. Go to the firing range and hone your shooting skills. That’s when you’ll feel like you’re really make progress.
The simplest Survival Navigation Technique
Things’re GPS or compass may become lost or broken. 
You may find yourself needing an alternate method of finding your bearings. You can use terrain association, if there is some readily identifiable features in view, but you really need to orient your map to a direction.
Anyone who has gone through any survival courses has been taught a variety of methods of survival navigation. Most have two problems in common, first they only apply to certain conditions, second they are a little too complicated and very easy to forget.
If you wish to use the North Star, it must be night, you need a clear night sky and must be in the northern hemisphere. The watch method of survival navigation is difficult since almost no one can remember which hand does what, and how north is indicated.
Also most people now wear digital watches without the hands on them, especially during outdoor activities. The stick shadow technique for survival navigation is simple, easy to remember and works anywhere on the planet in conditions where you can see a shadow.
The improvised Survival Navigation Technique is the simplest and most versatile method for direction finding without a compass. 
It works anywhere on the planet as long as the sun throws a shadow. Equipment needed is simple: only a stick or straight object such as a pen, and two small objects like pennies or rocks and you will be able to find north.
Step One of the Stick Shadow Technique for Survival 
Place your stick or any straight object into the ground, so it throws a shadow.
Step Two
Put a rock or penny at the tip of the shadow, something easily identifiable and wait 15 or 20 minutes.
Step Three
Place a second object at the tip of the shadow's new position.
Step Four
Place your left foot on the first rock or penny and your right foot on the second object. Just remember that you read left to right so your left foot goes on the first object and right on the second object, or if you are military-minded you always start off with your left foot.
You are now facing north!
All you really need to remember is to place the two rocks at the tip of the stick's shadow. Then place your left foot on the first rock and right foot on the second rock. if you ever find yourself without a compass and in need of a little help orienting yourself, then this technique is easy to remember and needs little equipment or special conditions.
My Survival Meal
This is a survival meal I have designed not only to be cheap at around 25p each meal but to also to be filling and more importantly tasty.
I have made some trial pasta meals (my own recipe)
The ingredients cost me
Pasta 1kg £0.38p
Lentils1/2 kg £ 0.99p
Cup-a-soup x10 £0.57p
Total £1.94p
Put as much pasta into a zip bag as you want then put in as much lentils as you like and bring to the boil once cooked then add the cup-a-soup and instantly your meal is ready to eat.
I made 8 meals at a cost of 24.1/4p each I think that is fantastic and very cheap and very filling too.
It is easy to add food to them say hotdog's chopped up, as they are already cooked and just need heating up.
You can also change the flavour by using different cup-a-soups flavours, or use garlic salt, spices or curry powder, dried onions or even fresh or dried peppers.
All you need not do is put the cup-a-soup packet (unopened) into the zip lock bag along with a half-a-cup of lentils and then fill the bag with the pasta. 
Mark the soup flavour on the bag. Instead of cup-a-soups you can use Pot Noodles; Pasta sauce mixes etc. to flavour your survival meal.
This way you can vary the meal flavours as you like each day.
To cook you firstly put the pasta and lentils into water and bring it to the boil and let it boil for 10 minutes when the pasta is cooked then add the cup-a-soup and stir then simply serve.
Please note that the lentils may not be fully cooked but they will be cooked enough to eat and the fact that they are chewy allows for a different texture to the meal anyway.
My Homemade MRE
I have been looking at the high prices of British Army MRE Ration Packs (About £10+ along with postage!) and I decided to opt for making my own for my bug out bag.
All of these items I bought from Asda so these are current prices. I would recommend using a vacuum sealer or Mylar bags with o2 absorbers to make these feasible, otherwise the shelf life I predict is probably not going to be reached due to the nature of some of the items.
Anyway, let’s begin, please note numbers after names are Calories, then price!
8 x Belvita Biscuits 445 £0.76
Coffee Sachet 75 £0.14
Cup a Soup 90 £0.10
Mugshot Pasta 307 £0.68
Lemon + Black pepper tuna tins x 2 340 £1.10
Boost bar 305 £0.25
Kendal mint cake 85g 350 £0.88
Pumpkin seeds 566 £0.55
Strawberry lances 300 £0.33
Coffee sachet 75 £0.14
So this leads to a total cost of £4.93 and a whopping 2853 calories!
I have also got three vacuum sealed bags of peanuts, raisins and chocolate drops which I would also chuck into the bug out bag, these contain a staggering 1750 calories for only £0.99 and will last for ages in the vacuum seal!
I'll add as well, my MRE weighs about 870g, where as a normal British Army one weighs 1750g and also it’s technically not an MRE as it requires water and minimal heating, but I have both of those in my BOB so nothing to worry about really! So it makes the meals even cheaper for now, however it would make long term sense to obtain my own at some point.
This is a very basic but very tasty MRE option and I am sure as I experiment further that it will develop and become more season friendly with both a range of hot and cold meals.
The Bug out Week end is coming.

Community of UK Preppers on FB are having a (Bug out weekend)
So why not join them on the 2nd to the 4th may 2015 to share and learn ideas with other like-minded people

The location is Winteringham Lane, West halton. DN15 9AX

Available Spaces
All spaces are designated specific areas of the Bug Out Weekend location that are suitable for that type of bugging out system as the location is a wild managed area and has a range of different types of ground.

All the places listed here are for the tree covered areas of the location.

1. Hammocks: ---------------------15 spaces.

2. Tarps and tents----------------10 Places

3. 4x4 and off road vehicles----20 places.

4. Campervans and trailers----15 places

There is a large open ground area of the location for the Bug Out Weekend to use whatever system you choose, but I will be limiting these spaces to 40 spaces.

Admission Fee
£20.00 for adult over 16 years

£10.00 for child under 16 years

Free for child under 10 years

Traders and promoters are welcome for no extra cost to the entrance fee

Anyone who says they are going to the event must pay a non-refundable £5.00 deposit per person to secure their place.
How to make deposit payment.
Only if you wish to attend say you are going and I will message you and give you the Paypal address with a payment reference number.

Once payment has been made i will send you your payment receipt reference number. This number is to be presented on entry to the Bug out Weekend where the deposit will be deducted from the admission cost.

Please arrange any train Tickets to Scunthorpe as soon as possible (ASAP) as this will save you money and could be cheaper than your own car.
We can arrange to pick you up from Scunthorpe Train Station and drop you back off for a fee of £3.00. Please let me know as soon as possible if you require this service.

There will be a toilet facility in place.

There will be ranges for Archery, Crossbow, Air rifle, live round rifles and shotgun too.

There will be a solar Shower available with hot water available if needed..

There will be a Marquee set up in case of any wet weather so it won't stop people who want to do a bit of socialising

There will be a BBQ for anyone who wants to have a good old meat feast at the cost of £5.00 per head

UK Firearms Licensing Act

For anyone who wishes to bring along a gun or rifle that requires to be licensed under the UK Firearms licensing act 1968.

It is every owner’s responsibility to ensure they are covered under the Uk Firearms licensing act and proof of cover for any such firearms must be shown before you are allowed entry to the Bug out Weekend meeting.

The organisers or associates will not be held responsible for any transportation of unlicensed Firearms to or from the Bug Out Weekend.

See the link below

Strict safety rules and timing guidelines at the range points must be followed at all times.

All guidelines and disclaimers will be presented on entry to the Bug Out Weekend meeting by security staff.

All guidelines and disclaimers must be read and understood before entry to the Bug out Weekend.
To be sure of a place go to FB and find The bug out weekend “CUP”

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