Failing to Prepare is Preparing to fail

"Surviving to Fight means Fighting to Survive"

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Wednesday, 26 November 2014

Show Contents 26th November 2014

Show Notes

I start this week’s show with The BEST SURVIVAL BRACELET Review, How to Make a Survival Heater, How to Prep Cost-Effectively, Blizzard Survival 20% Discount Offer, How to Choose the Best Survival Knife, the Ribzwear 30% Discount Offer, StrikeFire Fire Starter and Sporks Review, So You Want Your Own Land, the Field Leisure 10% Discount Offer, An Army Marches on Its Stomach I march ON My Feet, the Buggrub 10% Discount Offer, Building a Survival Shelter, the Hunters-Knives 10% Discount Offer, Inland fish for food, When the Power Stops, Reasons to Add a Pellet Air Gun to Your Survival Gun Arsenal, The Poison in our preps, the Midimax 10% Discount Offer, the bug out weekend is coming.

I have some fantastic news for those of you who signed the petition to demand the release of Marine A, the target figure of 100,000 names has been broken. Now we must all email our MP’s to get them to stand-by their agreement with us the people that should a government petition reach 100,000 signatures it will be discussed in parliament. Please go to the link at the top of my site and email the results to your MP.

BEAT EBOLA order your Children’s PPE, Bio-Protection Suit and Order you Pandemic Quick Kits HERE
The Best Survival Bracelet or BSB as it is know is an extremely well thought out idea of exceptional quality, in fact it even has a US PATENT PENDING US 20130213089 A1 it is that good and innovative.
This very well made paracord bracelet is all you need to start a fire anywhere as it is not only a source of paracord but it incorporates a 1” ferrocerium rod, a scraper and tinder in the form of jute strands woven into the top of the bracelet.
So what is jute anyway, well defines 'jute' as:  "a strong coarse fibre used for making burlap, gunny, and cordage that is obtained from two East Indian plants of the linden family."  
The plants grow 10-12 feet high and have long, serrated, tapered, light green leaves and small yellow flowers.  Since ancient times, jute has been grown and processed in the Bengal area of India and Bangladesh.  
Along with its many industrial uses, jute twine is one of the best fire tinder’s it is great to have available in your pack or emergency kit as a very reliable firestarter. 
Jute twine when dry, can be pulled apart into many fibres to create a 'bird nest' that starts very easily with fire starting tools such as fire steel, Magnesium rod, matches, or lighters.
The scraper roughly ½” x2” can be used in many different ways, you can have it engraved, you could have an edge put on it, paint it, polish it etc. In an emergency it can be used as a reflective signal device. 
To start a fire all you have to do is unpick the jute which runs along the top or outside of the BSB select the length you want and then tease the strands apart and rub them between the palms of your hands to further rough them up form a nest and then introduce a spark.
The ferrocerium rod which also acts as a toggle closure for the BSB is captive on the bracelet so you will not lose it when using it.
As with all fire making you must gather enough dry tinder and fuel before you attempt to light the jute. I have found once the nest is alight (which is an instant ignition by the way) I use Birch bark to increase the heat and then the smaller twigs and build up from there.
Now the best bit about the BSB is starting fires does not damage the BSB at all, as you simply re place the used jute by threading it back through the original loops simply and effective.
The BSB is a real asset and a must for the serious prepper and survivalist as even if you run out of jute the BSB will continue lighting fires for you anyway.
I love it and with jute costing pennies it is a fire starter for life.
Order your BSB at
How to Make a Survival Heater
Andrew from Durham texted last week about how to keep warm in your home and this piece also works if you get stranded in a vehicle in bad weather and want to get and stay warm, each winter getting stranded in your car can be a dangerous possibility even here in the UK. Being stuck in your home during a power cut can be equally as dangerous without the ability to heat your surroundings. Therefore I suggest that you plan now to have the ability to provide that lifesaving heat.
This is the equipment you will need
A small empty metal tin: You want this to be slightly taller but thinner than a standard roll of toilet paper. My can of choice is an unused 1 quart/ 2 pint paint tin found in most DIY shops. You can also use an empty food tin that is the same size.
A larger metal tin that can easily accommodate the first one: I use a 1 gallon unused paint tin (again found in most DIY shops). Another option is a coffee tin or a metal bucket and so on.
Some type of lid that can be placed over the larger tin: I also like to get a lid for the smaller can which I will explain later.
Toilet paper (unscented)
Six bottles of 70 to 91% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) seen on Ebay £2.29 for 500ml
Matches or some other fire starter
This is what you do
Prepare the toilet paper: The first step is to take out the central cardboard tube from the toilet paper roll, leaving only the paper behind.
Squeeze the paper into the smaller tin: Next you’ll want to squeeze and roll the paper into the smaller tin. If the tin is so small that a full-size paper roll has no chance of fitting inside it, then you can remove some of the external sheets (just like you would if you were going to the bathroom) until it does squeeze into the tin. It’s important that it fills up the entire volume of the can.
Add the fuel: If you are now ready to use it, simply add the alcohol until the toilet roll inside the can is completely saturated. One of the benefits of using a 1 quart/2 pint paint tin is that you can store the stove with the fuel already added by placing the air-tight lid over the can. This saves space and allows you to have more fuel available. The lid can also be used to control the output of the flame.
Place the smaller tin into the larger one and position it in your car or room to be heated: The larger tin provides an insulating barrier and some protection for passengers and your car. You’ll also want to position it in a place that’s far enough from anything combustible. Use the palm check. Put the back of your hand against the surface you’re worried about and if you can’t keep your hand there without burning it then it’s either to close or you’ll need to adjust the flame.
Light the stove: First, open a window just a crack to provide some airflow and then carefully place a match (or throw some sparks using a firesteel) onto the saturated toilet paper and voila! You’ve got yourself a burning stove.
Use caution in lighting as it will combust very quickly. It’s best to partially cover the smaller tin with a lid to decrease the size of combustion (you can always increase it later).
Controlling the Burn Rate
You may notice if you follow the steps above, that a pretty sizable flame results from having the smaller tin’s opening completely exposed. While this is fine if you want to warm up faster, it does tend to go through the fuel fairly quickly and is not so efficient.
A better way is to partially cover the smaller tin with a lid. Or if you used a 1 quart/2 pint paint tin, you can make a small hole (about the size of a 10p piece) in the lid it comes with and place that on top of the can. Both of these methods control the burn rate and allow the stove to provide a constant heat.
Another option is instead of completely saturating the toilet roll you can pour just a few ounces of alcohol on the paper and regularly add more as it burns up. This will also control the size of the flame and conserve fuel. I prefer to use the lid method over this one, since you don’t have to regularly add alcohol (it’s nice to sleep for a stretch of time and not have to regularly add fuel).
A Word on Carbon Monoxide
I’m sure by now many of you are thinking, “What about the dangers of carbon monoxide?”
Carbon monoxide is produced from the partial oxidation of carbon-containing compounds. “Partial oxidation” is just a big word for what happens when combustion (fire) takes place in an area where there isn’t much oxygen. This is most apparent when one operates a generator inside a home or if their wood stove is improperly vented.
In the case of this alcohol stove, while there is risk of carbon monoxide emissions (rubbing alcohol contains carbon: C3H7OH) the risk is very minimal. Opening your window slightly should provide sufficient oxygen for a clean burn.
If you still are concerned about it, I would recommend purchasing a battery-operated carbon monoxide alarm and turning it on (putting in the batteries) when running the stove. This will provide you ample warning should there be an issue.
How to Prep Cost-Effectively
Often individuals watch shows and see others prepping for what is described as doomsday events. Often the individuals that we watch or hear about spend thousands of pounds on prepping supplies. If you are like most individuals and do not have thousands of pounds to spend on prepping supplies, you must find another avenue to acquire your prepping supplies.
Be reassured that there are other means of acquiring a large storehouse of food and supplies for a SHTF event than spending thousands of pounds in obtaining them. One way you can acquire a stockpile of food is by purchasing an extra item of the regular types of foods that they normally would use.
When shopping instead of Buying two tins of corn buy three. Take one tin of the corn and put it in your prepping storeroom. You can then rotate the food as you need the food and replace the extra food while shopping the following week. This is a great way to acquire a very large cachet of food over a period of about six months.
Another way you can save money on purchasing prepping items is by visiting your local pound shop. Some may laugh at this idea. Some may think this idea is absurd. The facts of the matter are that your local pound shop often has first aid supplies that are normally very costly at other shops, mine also sells food.
Usually most pound shops offer the supplies for a pound or less. I have personally seen in the past were the same supplies often cost more than £5 apiece. Things like Band-Aids, swab sticks, aspirin, and even vitamins are often offered at your local pound shop. A substantial savings can be amassed by purchasing your items at this type of venue.
Often individuals think that a survival kit must have a beautiful label with a beautiful amount of individually packaged items to be deemed what is called a survival kit. The real fact of the matter is that as long as the survival kit is capable of administering treatment to an individual that has been injured the first aid kit is completely functional.
It doesn't take a pretty package to have the perfect first aid kit. In actuality, these pre-packaged first aid kits often contain items that are inferior in quality compared to the items that you could obtain from a pound shop, in other words you can design your own kit.
Another factor to consider while at the pound shop is buying items such as batteries, flashlights, tools, vitamins, paper products, disinfectants, personal hygienic items; the list goes on and on. An individual can purchase a small duffel bag from your local army surplus store and stockpile these items into it creating one heck of a bug out bag for less than £15.
The same bag with inferior items contained inside may be offered at more than £100 when commercially prepared for the public. I am not against buying these commercially prepared bug out bags or first aid kits.
What I am concerned with is providing the same opportunities to individuals that are on a shoestring budget as compared to those that live a lifestyle where money is abundant. The fact of the matter is that everyone should be entitled to surviving and having prepping supplies readily available.
To buy good but cheap food preps I suggest that you check out
Approved Food & Drink is the biggest online seller of clearance food and drink and they deliver to your door across the UK.
I hope this information has provided some food for thought and will help individuals that live on a limited budget.

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How to Choose the Best Survival Knife
All those who have ever devoted a quality amount of time in the outdoors will vouch for the effectiveness of a good knife but to the survival professional his knife is one of their best friends and the most securely guarded of his survival equipment.
These days most people have forgotten the importance of always having a survival knife.
Without a doubt it is now normal to meet those who are scared of knives and question people who keep them. It is an unfortunate fact that many present day individuals have no clue regarding the numerous functions of a great survival knife.
When I was a little boy around 10 years old my father gave me a pen knife and I used it every day from sitting on my back step whittling to using it every day, all day without even thinking about it.
I then joined the boy scouts and was able to wear a “bone handle sheath knife” and I have to tell you that whichever knife I had it never crossed my mind to stab someone with it, even in anger on the day my next door neighborough shot my frog with an air rifle as I released it into a local stream
A great survival knife is a vital piece within your survival equipment and is among the essentials that all survivors need to have with him or her.
With a capable knife you can take or acquire almost anything you need to thrive as well as succeed in the outdoors. With this in mind, your selection of the best survival knife for your requirements has to be dependent on solid build quality, correct parts, craftsmanship, and capability.
To newcomers, survival knives usually conjure up images of the huge Rambo style knives as shown in Hollywood cinema.
Though they look like powerful tools that could take on everyone, these oversized blades really are a phony from the best of blades used by survival pros.
The big blades have problems with being tough to handle as they are very hefty and huge. Additionally, double edged knives are recommended mainly for thrusting. As their tips are fairly weak they are prone to breaking up.
A number of survival knives are sold which may have hollow handles – the idea being you can stash survival necessities like matches, compass, and various strings within the water-tight handle.
One issue empty grip survival blades experience is that they are prone to being sluggish compared to solid handle selection and also they can easily break at the hilt as the handle or the blade fly’s during heavy use.
There are exceptions, but usually you’re best holding the survival gear somewhere else.
One benefit is if you should lose your survival knife you will still have survival kit items to use.
The best survival knives need to be functional in the number of things they are often called upon to do. At the same time mass and weight are crucial considerations just like any survival items.
Some people advise that the ideal survival knife blade length is approximately four to six inches long. This particular size blade gives good mixture of size and control.
If a larger sized survival blade is necessary then you would possibly be best taking a machete or an axe. Whatever the case, you would still do well with a normal sized survival knife.
The best survival knife is constructed of one joint of metal, to which there might be sections of material joined to create a snug grip. This kind of construction is well known in the blade community as “full tang” or “narrow tang”.
Full tang survival knives are manufactured so that the blade fuses the handgrip. Typically 2 parts of materials attach to each side of the steel to create a secure handle.
To be able to save money on weight and mass some knives avoid adding grips and the steel remains bare, these can be wrapped with paracord to make a comfortable hand grip for example.
Narrow tang survival knives reduce the proportions of the blade material as it makes its way into the grip of the knife. A handle is then connected on the smaller bit of the blade.
Often the knife handle consists of leather-based disks. Narrow tang knives sometimes use a pommel attached to the handgrip end of the tang.
Cheap survival knives tend to be made in order that the metal blade is split from the handgrip. The weaker point on these terribly made blades is when the blade and grip are bolted and glued together. You’d do best to stay away from such cheap knifes in favour of the full tang or narrow tang types.
There are two major forms of knife blades that the survivor need, specifically smooth and serrated. Serrated survival knife blades do best at slicing artificial materials, garments, and skin.
For self- defence and paramedics, serrated sides make the perfect choice.
A downside of serrated cutting sides is that they are tough to sharpen effectively in the wilderness. This is really a major disadvantage in a survival situation where keeping a sharp edge in the course of tough use is extremely necessary.
In addition, serrated knives don’t have an effective blade for carving and chopping.
A plain smooth edged blade is the blade of preference for almost all survival circumstances. This kind of blade is useful for chiselling, dicing, and sawing.
Although it might not chop through nylon material webbing, clothes, or flesh as efficiently as a serrated blade, the straight bladed knives will still make quick work of such elements.
The added benefit of the normal blade is that you may sharpen your survival knife on a stone or piece of cement should you not have a normal sharpening rock on hand whereas the serrated blade typically needs special sharpening equipment and technique.
Around the back of numerous survival knives are a saw designed for sawing through metal or solid wood. In lots of situations, as in the Rambo variation knives, these saws simply do a bad job at very best.
In the event you require a small saw in your survival tools you would thrive to add a tool specifically developed for this instead of use your knife for this purpose.
The best survival knife will usually have a blade width of around 4mm and 7mm. Any thinner and the knife will become too bendable. It is crucial that the tip of the knife sustains its durability, as this is a likely spot where the knife could fail.
There’s two primary forms of metal used in producing top quality survival knives:
Firstly stainless-steel knife blades are decay immune and function really well in damp settings. They need much less care compared to carbon steel knives. Disadvantages to using stainless steel in knives is because they tend to be more costly, are more tough to sharpen, and might not hold an edge as nicely.
Carbon Steel knife blades however may rust if not used frequently or sprayed. Many people think carbon steel knives hold an edge much better than their stainless steel counterparts.
I carry the Chris Caine Companion which is in my view the complete survival tool
A front pack is a pack or bag that allows for access of equipment from the persons chest. Front packs first and foremost allow for easy access of gear without the removal of any equipment.
In many adventure outdoor activities it can be critical to the sport to have the ability to reach essential gear fast without the removal of a backpack. Simplicity is the foremost purpose of the front pack but there are many additional benefits as well.
In all there are unlimited uses for the front pack. Front packs are the best compliment to any outdoorsman’s gear when accessibility, functionality, mobility and simplicity are required. From horseback riding, long distance biking, motorcycling and kayaking.
All sports where fast and easy access of gear is essential, a front pack is your best solution and as you can imagine it is going down a storm within the prepping and survivalist community.
Your summer code is "TRAILBLAZE" and can be used in the coupon section within the Store. Have a Great Summer!
StrikeFire Fire Starter and Sporks Review
A variation of the old flint and steel concept, ferrocerium rods produce larger, hotter, and more sparks than their predecessor.
First, why not just use matches or lighters? They're easier to use and cheaper, right? Well, I do recommend keeping a few lighters and matches on hand, but no, they aren't always easier to use, and they aren't cheaper either.
Consider lighting a fire after falling into water, or after your lighter or matches have been in the rain.
Wet lighters and matches don't work, while ferrocerium rod fire starters like the StrikeFire are impervious to water, and will easily start fires while wet. You can buy waterproof matches and lighters but they will cost a lot more overall.
Be aware that while waterproof matches may be waterproof, the rough surface they come with to strike on often isn't.
Before we can compare the cost between a StrikeFire and matches/lighters, we have to know how long a StrikeFire lasts. We get roughly 12000 fires form the large strikefire before it needs to be replaced.
There is a medium version that lights 3,000 fires.
They both produce temperatures of 3,000 degrees Celsius, the sparks from a StrikeFire will light a huge range of natural and man-made tinders, including gas and petrol camping stoves.
The StrikeFire is a new British made product using the best ferrocerium rod available, a hardened steel scraper and reflective paracord lanyard.
Get yours now at
The strikefire Titanium Spork
What do you get when you cross a lightweight titanium spoon with a lightweight titanium fork? The ultimate eating utensil for preppers and survivalists alike the spork.
With a spork you have twice the weight savings—not only is titanium light, but you need only carry a single utensil cutting the weight you carry even further
Titanium leaves no metallic smell or taste and will not rust.
It is also non-corrosive, non-magnetic and hypoallergic
Weight 17 g
The Strikefire Stainless Steel Spork
A genuinely useful spoon paired with a more than adequate fork and knife. Made of virtually indestructible stainless steel, these sporks are much less prone to snapping than plastic sporks. Being able to substitute three utensils for one is a real bonus, allowing you to scoop, prong, cut and lift virtually any forms of foods you may encounter, in either the great outdoors or the concrete jungle.
So You Want Your Own Land
Do you hold a dream to live off of the land and experience the joy of sustainable living? There really are countless things to consider when living off the land. However, if I was wanting my own land then these items would be on my list and I think they should be on yours.
1. Land
2. Natural Fresh Water Source
3. Food
4. Shelter
5. Power
6. Medical Skills
7. Methods of Communications
8. Disposal of Waste
9. Positive Mental Attitude
I put land as the number one priority on this list ’cause without land, there’s no living off of it! There is a huge debate about how much is enough. I say, you make do with what you have.
But in order to produce enough to truly live off the land, you will need at least 5 acres. This allows for enough space to produce for your family and your animals. When considering where to purchase cheap land you must consider things such as acreage, amount of timber, quality of soil, presence of water, cost of land taxes, and weather.
Natural Fresh Water Source
We can live days, even weeks without food, but we will surely die without water in about 3 days. A fresh water source is crucial to your success in living off the land. Whether it is a lake, river/stream, spring or well, it must be close by and it must be drinkable.
The cost of digging a well depends on your location, water table, and contractor, but you can expect to pay up to £3,000. Water Storage (tanks, cisterns, aquifers, and ponds for domestic supply, fire and emergency use) is also a necessary system to consider and install.
Nutrition, and the production of food, is super important and a key factor in living off the land not only for your family, but for your animals as well.
In most zones a greenhouse for the winter is a must as well as a garden in the summer. Books such as The Winter Harvest Handbook teach sustainable year-round gardening methods and will give you a good price point for getting started. Additionally, you’ll need a working knowledge of traditional food preservation techniques using salt, oil, sugar, alcohol, vinegar, drying, cold storage, and lactic fermentation. Preserving Food without Freezing or Canning is a great resource for this.
Production animals (i.e. bees, chickens, cows, ducks, goats, pigs, rabbits, and sheep) provide a fresh source of food, among countless other things.
The start-up cost of purchasing your animals will vary as will the initial cost of heirloom garden seed. Depending on where you wanted to start, chickens and goats seem logical to me, you may be looking at around £500 for animals, garden, and seed. If £500 seems like too much initially, get started with a small flock of chickens; the eggs alone are enough to sustain and nourish.
When constructing your home/shelter, positioning it for power efficiency is of upmost importance. When living off the land, the hope is, our use of power will decrease. Some of the sources for off-grid power are wood/fire, solar, wind, and hydro. Ideally, your property and/or your local area should contain enough timber to provide a heat and cooking source.
The old-fashioned cook top stove would need to find its place in your home. Solar chargers, wind turbines, and water powered generators are all rather expensive forms of generating power, initially.
Which one’s better? It depends on who you talk to and where you live! Anyway you go, you can plan on investing around £2,000. Bottom line, the less power you need the less power you have to generate. Power conservation is your best bet when choosing to living off the land.
Medical Skills
Basic medical skills are a necessity for anyone living off-grid. Simply because in most cases you will be quite a distance from the nearest medical facility and you may not hold health insurance.
For a £50 start-up cost you can construct an emergency medical kit.
Purchase books like Where There Is No Doctor, Where There Is No Dentist, and Where Women Have No Doctor: A Health Guide for Women.
And for sustainability’s sake you will need to learn how to make homemade herbal bandages, tinctures, and syrups; all of which require knowledge of medicinal herbs.
Methods of Communications
Communication has been and will always be a very important aspect of our lives. Modern technology (aka The Internet) has dramatically changed the way we communicate with others.
There are a variety of Satellite Internet Services providers that are for the most part, pretty inexpensive. The initial equipment and set up fee will cost you approximately £200 with a monthly charge of around £30 depending on what provider you go with.
If you don’t want the monthly charge? CB radio works well for local use and the Ham radio is better for long range communications.
Disposal of Waste
In order of least expensive to most expensive, here are 3 options for the disposal of human waste.
Humanure. Composting human waste is free. The most amazing system has been created and you can read all about it in
The Humanure Handbook. If you are even remotely considering living off-grid this book should be in your home library.
Incinerator Toilet. The waterless incinerator toilet can be set up anywhere and is the perfect alternative to a septic system. One of these lovely things will cost you approximately £1.000.
Septic System. The septic system is the most expensive costing anywhere from £5,000. This system requires modern electricity and running water in addition to routine maintenance.
Positive Mental Attitude
If you are going to live off the land and thrive, you have to have your mind right. A positive mental attitude, and a willingness to learn, will see you through the tough times of sustainable living.
However, living off the land is no joke. It’s not romantic or sexy. It’s blood, sweat, and tears. It’s up with the sun and working for hours.
It’s unpredictable. An agrarian way of life is a willing submission to the laws of nature and to the Creator. This will cost you everything!
Don’t ever give up on your dreams of living off the land! I promise there is a way…you just have to find it.
Wilderness121’s 10% discount
The new supplier of Purificup to the UK is Wilderness121 and they really mean business, having spoken to the director Rob Williams he has agreed to offer you dear listener a 10% discount just by putting the letters UKPRN into the code box it is that simple.
Now pop along to and check out their great range of survival related products.
Now thanks to the Managing Director Paul listeners visiting Field Leisure - The Bushcraft & Wilderness Store    at can get 10% OFF by entering the code UKPRN at the checkout now Paul guarantees next day delivery all over the UK and fast European and US delivery and that is reassuring and refreshing too.
An Army Marches on Its Stomach I march ON My Feet
Out of all the challenges, difficulties and obstacles that you face during selection, training or on operations, there are very few problems that lay claim to actually stopping a person more than a busted foot. 
From shin splints, to back problems, sprains and blisters, these and numerous other problems can make a difficult challenge in the field downright miserable.  However, proper foot care seems to be the most vital when it comes to surviving in the field.  You must always remember your feet are your primary mode of transportation, treat them well!
During a march in Holland, one of the nastiest things I witnessed was a blister that covered a guy’s entire bottom foot.  In the end, the worst part wasn’t just that he had this massive blister, but the fact that he neglected to treat the wound immediately. 
He waited until after it burst, which led to a nasty infection, before treating it.  Needless to say, this was the end of the road for his march attempt that year.  Can you imagine a year's worth of training only to be defeated three days into it, for something as simple as a blister?  This unfortunate scenario he experienced could have been easily prevented...devastating!!
As a soldier, it’s imperative that you make the choice to be proactive when it comes to taking care of your body.  Being reactive means taping hot spots and fixing blisters as soon as they develop.  It requires you to make fixes to your feet under less than ideal conditions and sometimes it will be with inadequate material.  Being proactive on the other hand means learning what works for your feet and knowing how to treat any potential problems before they develop. You need to become aware of what resources are available, ensuring you use preventative measures to keep blisters from occurring in the first place.
Your training should be done in the gear you typically use, even down to the weight of the backpack. By training as realistically as possible you give your body the time needed to adjust and avoid subjecting your feet to new stress during actual competitions or missions.
Blister Care
Special Forces selection is the ultimate test of a soldier’s endurance, training, tactics, mental resolve and proper body maintenance.  A common obstacle faced on the field that often prevents many from finishing selection results from blisters occurring to soldier’s feet. 
Of course anyone can slap on a piece of moleskin and Vaseline, hoping for the best!  However, the key to proper foot care is being aware of how to actually fix a blister so you can keep soldiering on and this takes practice.
Blisters form when the membrane connecting your outer skin layer (epidermis) and the underlying layer (dermis) becomes separated due to heat and friction.  As a result, the space between these layers becomes filled with fluid.
Here are some tips on how you can help prevent blisters from forming:
File down any calluses with a pedicure file so that if a blister develops, you can access it to properly treat it. If you allow thick calluses to remain, they will be next to impossible to get underneath in order to fix.
Taping is a great way to prevent blisters from forming as it provides your skin with an extra barrier of protection.  I recommend taping the night before so the tape has time to conform to your feet.  By taping the night before, it’s one less thing to worry about the next day and if it does come loose, it will take less time to fix. 
Micropore works well, conforms well to the foot’s shape and is breathable
Tape any areas that have blistered before or you know may be a friction point. Spread Tincture of Benzoin over the area to be taped. Allow the Tincture to become tacky, and then tape as flatly and neatly as possible. Cut off any wrinkles or corners of the tape.
I recommend hardening the soles of your feet by rubbing on white spirit daily which will gradually make your soles harder.
Having appropriate socks is another great asset in preventing blisters.  Make sure you’ve tried your socks out prior to the event. With regular socks, seams are sometimes a problem (it can help to turn the seam-side out).  Any sock needs to fit well, with no wrinkling. 
Cotton socks provide no wicking, tend to make balls and be irritating.  Also, ensure your socks are cleaned well of any dirt or sand, as any amount of sand or dirt tends to cause blistering.  Find the best socks for your feet, preferably ones that wick moisture away from the skin, with seamless toes. Some soldiers prefer single-layer socks, others like double-layer, and still others use a two-sock combination.
Remember, if you choose a thicker sock it means hotter feet, which leads to sweaty feet and moist skin.  Voila, sweaty feet and moist skin is the perfect recipe for a blister!  While in the field, change your socks regularly and always keep an extra pair in your pack. Socks…you can never have enough!
Shoes and boots:
It goes without saying that appropriate footwear is essential. Make sure you have shoes or boots that fit properly, are broken in, and are appropriate for the terrain and weather you will encounter.  Make sure shoes aren’t black; they absorb too much heat (not much you can do about combat boots). 
Ensure insoles are insulating.  I wear padded orthotics that also provide insulation against the heat but I don’t recommend trying something you haven’t trained with before. You need a good outer sole for traction (with a combat boot if you can get away with it, have them modified with a VIBRAM sole), enough room in the front/toe area so that toes aren’t crammed close together.
Remember that in hot weather and over long hikes your feet will swell.  You can use socks of different thickness to accommodate an initially looser fit, so remember to pack various types of socks.
Gaitors are very useful and a light piece of gear.  They go over your socks and the top of your shoe to prevent grass seeds, sand, stones, sticks and grit from sneaking their way into your socks and shoes. 
By preventing these irritants from entering your shoes, you prevent blisters because these irritants will cause friction and blisters. 
Therefore, the cleaner you can keep your socks and the inside of your boots, the better.  It’s absolutely essential that your gaiters fit correctly, i.e. not too tight on your skin and that they stay around the top of your boot.  Make any other of your own adjustments as you find necessary.
Treating Blisters After They Develop:
First, clean the area with alcohol. Second, drain the blister by cutting a hole in it.  Don’t use a pin prick to drain the blister, otherwise, it will refill.  Next, place Second Skin over the blister. 
Try to leave the skin intact over the blister; otherwise, the blister becomes more susceptible to infection.  Treat the area with Tincture of Benzoin, once again, so that the tape will stick and then tape over the Second Skin.
 Make sure that the foot is dry, because once the skin is moist from sweat it becomes harder for the tape to stick.  I use foot powder to dry the feet after the benzoin before I go ahead and tape the foot.
The number one factor in appropriate foot care is being aware of what your feet need and how to take care of them, before you have to do it.  I've fixed my feet hundreds of times over the years and the best results always happened when I took the time to prep my feet long before heading out.
To have and keep healthy feet, you have to know what works for them in different environments and the terrain you'll find yourself in (desert, jungle, mountains, muck).  You also have to know what to do when suddenly what seemed to have worked in the past no longer works.  In other words, you’ll need a fall back plan with the equipment to back it up and the knowledge of how to use it.
Lubricate your feet.  Reapply lubricants frequently making certain that you clean off the old layer before applying.  Make certain that your feet are clean and dry. Dirt will irritate the skin, making it a hot spot for a potential painful blister.
Remember that lubricants have a softening effect and could make your skin tender and more prone to blistering.
If lubricants don’t work for you, then I recommend that you try powders. Powders help to reduce friction between your feet and socks by absorbing moisture.  Dry skin is more resistant to blister formation than soft, moist skin. 
Powders can cake in the presence of moisture (this includes sweat), causing blisters, so lightly dust your feet with powder and don’t go overboard!
Another great source of protection for your feet is the use of skin strengtheners.  Strengtheners work by coating the feet for protection and drying the skin. The most commonly used is a tincture of benzoin, also known as FRIAR’S BALSAM.
Learn how to tape like a pro!  Practice taping and then practice some more.  Keep taping until your taping is perfected and you will have happy feet and an easier time in the field.
When taping your toes if you tape one, you must tape them all. The tape is certain to irritate and create friction on the neighbouring digits creating blisters on all your toes.
Trim your toe nails to avoid toe blisters. Cut them straight across and file them so the front edges are smooth and will not catch on your socks.
Keep well hydrated to reduce swelling of the feet. When you are fluid and electrolyte deficient your skin will more easily rub and fold over itself causing blisters.
Take off your shoes and socks to air your feet whenever you rest so that they dry out and elevate them above the level of your heart to reduce swelling.
Understand the benefit of taking a few minutes early on to deal with hot spots and minor blisters before they develop into a serious problem. If you push on not wanting to hold up your team, remember that within a few hours you, or a teammate, will be in pain, will travel even slower and ultimately may not be able to complete the training.
Peter at buggrub is not only sponsoring the competition on my website he is also offering a 10% discount on all his products by using the word PREPPER. So have you got the gonads, can you walk the walk, dare you, I dear you to buy some buggrub and then eat it, go on I dare you. Peter’s website is
Building a Survival Shelter
Knowing how to build a survival shelter can save your life.
While lack of food can kill you in 3 weeks, and a lack of water kill you in three days, exposure can kill in a matter of a few hours!
Regardless of what type of outdoor survival situation you find yourself in, you may need to build a shelter until a more permanent solution can be found.
Lean-to shelters are the easiest to build and can be constructed from almost any material. A blanket or tarp suspended on one end and weighted down on the other is considered a lean-to.
Wood supported by any upright is also a lean-to. All of these will provide some protection from wind, sun, rain, snow and all can be made with items that can be found or carried in a survival backpack.
Conical structures will also provide emergency shelter and while they are a bit more difficult to create can be made from items easily located.
Branches, sticks, lumber and pipe are all materials that can be used to construct a conical shelter. Arrange your support material in a circular motion. Starting with two poles on each side, prop them up so that they help support each other.
Working on a north/south and east/west grid, create a circle of supports. As you fill in the gaps on each directional side you will find that the structure becomes more stable.
Choose one area to leave open for your entryway. You can place a few branches or sticks sideways at this area weaving them into the outer supports to reduce the height of this opening.
You can close up this opening with a blanket, backpack or rubbish bag once you are inside.
When the basic shell has been constructed you can cover this conical structure with smaller branches, cloth such as blankets, curtains, carpet and so forth. Leaves and grass also work as a covering.
If your structure is constructed in an area where there is no danger of escaping natural gas or propane you may build a small pit fire inside. There will be a natural centre hole in conical shelters that will allow the smoke to rise and escape from inside.
A tipi structure is also an option for some. Taller supports are tied together at the top forming an inverted ice cream cone shape. Around these poles, fabric such as sheets or blankets, carpet or plastic is placed.
Again if this structure is in an area where no danger of escaping natural gas or propane is present, a small pit fire for warmth and cooking may be placed inside.
Tents and other types of pre-made shelters are useful as well.
Many modern tents are small, lightweight and some are designed for very cold temperatures. While these modern shelters have specific types of stoves and heating equipment that must be used they can be a valuable shelter option for some.
Canvas was once the fabric of choice for many temporary outdoor structures. Unfortunately, it is heavy and is a poor choice today for the survival backpack. However, it is possible to pack one of those lightweight silver tarps in a backpack and then have it available.
Drape it over a pole lodged between two trees, so that each end touches the ground. Anchor the ends with rocks and logs and close one end with branches, twigs and leaves.
Providing shelter during an emergency is as important as water and food will be.
Before you find yourself in an emergency situation you need to practice making a survival shelter. Having the supplies for an emergency without having the skills to use them is like not having the supplies in the first place.
Be prepared. Practice your skills before you need them.
Nigel at has offered you dear listener 10% on all his products simply by using the code PREP10.
Inland fish for food
Millions of anglers catch fish only to put them straight back again. Isn't it time were discovered the culinary potential of freshwater species?
It seems to me that it is a good time to cast an eye inland to our native freshwater species: the pike, perch, zander, chub, carp, bream and gudgeon that swim largely uneaten in our lakes and rivers.
Britain has a rich history of consuming freshwater species. In the past those who didn't live near the sea ate whatever they could coax out of inland waterways. Monastic gardens and manor houses almost always had a fish pond or moat where freshwater species were farmed for Friday fish suppers and feasts.
You would struggle to find any of the species above displayed on a fishmonger's slab in the UK these days, but they all make a worthy feast. Some cultures have never forgotten this - the British angling press is frequently peppered with tales of resourceful eastern Europeans taking prize carp, something of a delicacy in their part of the world, home for tea.
With an estimated three million anglers in the UK regularly pulling fish out of the water only to put them straight back, why is it that we don't we eat more of our native freshwater species? One of the main reasons must be that we are a nation of sporting folk; freshwater species are targeted on both quality and quantity criteria.
Specimen hunters invest plenty of time and money in the pursuit of large individuals of species such as pike, carp, barbel and the non-native catfish. The reward is twofold: an epic fight and the possibility of a new personal best or even a record-breaker.
On the other hand, match fishermen go for quantity and any species is welcome regardless of size. All these perfectly edible fish are put into a keep net to be weighed up at the end of the day before being released back into the water.
Many cultures would view this practice as verging on insanity, but it is our quality of life and today's convenience culture that has turned fishing in the UK from a necessity into a mass-participation sport. Only those fishing for trout, sea trout and salmon seem to take something home for the table.
People are also nervous about the legality of fishing. There's no need; in England and Wales as long as you are in possession of a £27 rod licence and have permission from the water's owner, the Environment Agency states that on any given day an angler may remove 15 small (up to 20cm) native species including barbel, chub,common bream, common carp, crucian carp, dace, grayling, perch, pike, roach,rudd, silver bream, smelt, tench and zander (non-native) as well as one pike of up to 65cm and two grayling of 30-38cm.
Another reason this subject is often approached with apprehension is that many people believe freshwater fish will taste muddy. Fish from free-flowing waters don't tend to suffer from this problem, although those from still waters can. As seening an episode of River Cottage Forever, the only antidote is to cleanse the fish through a de-mudification programme of 3-4 days in a spring-fed tank. I'm afraid the bath tub just won't do.
To ensure these fish find their way into your kitchen, you have to catch them yourself. So what to catch? I've been fishing since childhood and over the years I have eaten my way through a number of freshwater species. My favourite used to be eel, but as the number of young eels returning to European rivers has fallen by 95% it is now illegal to remove any caught by rod and line, but there are plenty of other options.
Perch are a beautiful fish, green scaled with black stripes down their flanks, an impressive spiked dorsal fin and a ferocious pack-hunter mentality. Although nearly wiped out in UK waters in the 1970s and 1980s by a lethal virus, thankfully they have made a remarkable comeback. Perch have firm white flesh similar to bass. To cook, simply de-scale, fillet, toss in seasoned flour and pan fry with lemon juice: a recipe the French refer to as filet de perche.
The chub is deemed to be an inedible fish, Izaak Walton referred to it as being "full of forked bones, the flesh is not firm, but short and tasteless". And I could not agree more.
If any freshwater species is guilty of tasting muddy, then it is the carp. Due to increasing pressure on our saltwater stocks and adoration from Eastern Europeans in the UK, consumption of this fish is beginning to rise for the first since the middle ages. Again, the flesh is firm and meaty and stands up to a variety of different ways of cooking, although baking is the best method.
The sinister pike is another excellent eating fish, I have had a few in restaurants in France Not only are they cannibals, regularly feasting on other pike often more than half their own size. Their mouths contain a series of backward-pointing teeth: once something goes in, it's not coming out. Pike can also grow to alarming size - the British record presently stands at a mighty 46lbs 13oz.
Even dead pike have a secret weapon; once cooked they possess a substantial number of Y-shaped bones along the fillet. Once removed they have a mild taste which is quite pleasant.
As with growing and eating your own vegetables, catching and cooking a fish you have wrestled out of the depths gives a feeling of deep satisfaction. With the pressure on our oceans at an all-time high, perhaps it is time to look at less familiar options. For those who do fish, please consider tasting your catch. And if you don't, consider taking it up: you'll be in a position to get your hands on some of the freshest possible fish.
Many of the fish I've mentioned above have been staple foods in the past, so why are we so put off by them now? If you've tucked into some of our lesser-known freshwater fish you will know what I mean.
When the Power Stops
It is a fact that our country is more reliant on electrical power today than at any time in its history. Our way of life – from everyday conveniences and the security of local emergency services to commerce and communications – is contingent upon an always on, always available flow of electricity.
But an aging infrastructure coupled with a rise in natural and man-made disasters threatens our entire modern day digital infrastructure. According to many experts from the private and public sector, we’re just one major catastrophic event away from a complete meltdown of life in the United Kingdom as we know it today.
So, what happens if and when the grid goes down for an extended period of time? Aside from the aggravation of not being able to determine what is happening through traditional media channels, for the Average person, his problems have only just begun.
 Our dependency to the power grid doesn’t just stop at the lack of electricity in our homes to power our appliances or an inability to charge our mobile phones; it is much broader and affects every aspect of our lives.
We are regularly inundated with news reports covering power cuts that last several days or weeks resulting from bad weather or snow storms. During those times, when entire towns or regions experience power cuts, we get a glimpse into what a truly widespread emergency might look like.
It is often the case that the first thing residents of affected areas do is rush to the supermarket and DIY stores hoping to acquire critical supplies like food, water, batteries, flashlights and generators.
And while these supplies acquired at the onset of crisis may provide short term sustenance, any long-term power cut situation that lasts for many weeks or months will prove dangerous, and perhaps fatal, to the unprepared.
Consider, for a moment, how drastically your life would change without the continuous flow of energy the grid delivers. While manageable during a short-term disaster, losing access to the following critical elements of our just-in-time society would wreak havoc on the system.
Challenges or shut downs of business commerce
Breakdown of our basic infrastructure: communications, mass transportation, supply chains
Inability to access money via ATM machines
Payroll service interruptions
Interruptions in public facilities – schools, workplaces might close, and public gatherings.
Inability to have access to clean drinking water
The last widespread outage in the Northeast with over 80,000 homes without electricity, showed how intimately interconnected and alarmingly fragile our power grid is.
If our society is more reliant on power than at any time in history – without it, we’ve got no commerce, no communications, and no clean water – and if power becomes less reliable in the future, the big question is: Will we be able to hack it?
THE TROUBLE with the future of power isn’t that there is one big problem that could knack us. It’s that there are a host of them, any one of which could knack us.
These things that could knack us I would class as Extreme Natural Disasters
This includes earthquakes, hurricanes, snow storms, thunderstorms as well as massive solar storms that have the potential to seriously damage the electrical grid. You don’t think it could happen?
“It took just 90 seconds for a 1989 solar storm to cause the collapse of the Hydro-Quebec power grid, leaving 6 million Canadians without power for up to nine hours.
A 2008 NASA-funded report noted the risk of significant damage to our interconnected grid in light of the forecast for increased solar activity. The 11-year solar cycle is expected to peak in 2013, and just two weeks ago we saw one of the biggest solar-radiation storms in years.
Acts of Terrorism
This category includes, but is not limited to a physical attack on the bulk power system, either at its source of generation or somewhere along its transmission route, cyber-attack on the computers controlling our interconnected grid, electro-magnetic pulse, or an EMP, weapon.
Have you read me “effects of EMP” article. EMP’s will create long-lasting damage that would incapacitate electronic systems across the country and forever change our way of life. Cyber-threats are another concern and someone with serious hacking skills could easily take out computers, networks or information stored therein to cause lasting damage to our way of life.
The Ailing Grid
Our ailing power grid is almost as sick as our failing economy. With one malicious event, be it manmade or by natural means, it is down. Our power delivery system is as old and stooped as a pensioner. As it is upgraded and its capacity is expanded, our rapacious need for more electrical power races to max it out once again.
A wide-spread emergency, such as a massive power surge, solar flare or a rogue electromagnetic pulse (EMP) detonation have the capacity to render our entire power infrastructure useless. Transformers and other key elements on which the grid depends could be permanently damaged as a result of massive electric surges.
In an event such as this our immediate problem will be finding a way to order, manufacture and take delivery of the components needed to replace the faulty ones.
Most of the parts made for our electrical grid are made in China – and many are decades old. It would take months to get the parts shipped to this country and replaced.
During the power cut, millions would be adversely affected; some even suggesting that within a year 9 out of 10 Britons would be dead from starvation, disease and violence.
Ladies and gentleman, if there’s one thing that can cause the veritable “S” to hit the fan, this is it.
So how do we remedy and/or prepare for a grid down scenario? Think retro – like pioneer retro- and by that we have to go way back to when we were not so dependent on the luxury of on-demand energy in its various forms. When preparing for a grid-down scenario, we must comprise different contingency plans for short-term and longer-term issues.
That being the case, we have to admit to ourselves that it could last longer than we expect and much more than just a minor inconvenience. Therefore, the best way to prepare is to start with your basic needs. That is the need for light, heat, water, and food. Some preparedness items to stock up on are:
Alternative fuel sources such as solar and diesel, wood for burning.
Food preservation supplies – dehydrators, canners, smokers, fermenting/pickling supplies. To learn more, click here.
Bulk food – Canned, freeze-dried, dehydrated or dry goods.
Water filtration supplies, rain harvesting supplies and large quantities of stored water.
Light sources: Lanterns, flashlights, candles and matches and alternative light sources
Batteries and chargers
Emergency stove – solar oven, rocket stove, camping stoves, etc.
Wood burning fire place – Central air heating systems, even if they use natural gas or propane, depend on electricity for the blower that will circulate the heated air. When the grid is down, this system will not work. Having a wood burning fire place is an alternative to central heating systems.
Cash money and/or silver or gold currency
The vulnerability of our grid is nothing new to preppers. Some have seen this problem coming for a long time and changed their entire ways of life by going off-grid. They have found alternative sources such as solar, wind and diesel to power their homes and machinery. A majority of us, who have not gone off-grid, are making a concerted effort to avoid dependence on this ailing infrastructure and preparing for life without it. That being said, all we can do is stay the course, prepare accordingly and continue on.
Reasons to Add a Pellet Air Gun to Your Survival Gun Arsenal
You heard me correctly, I said Pellet Gun. Yes, the kind powered by air I have a good quality Pellet Air Gun and it’s not just because I still have it from when I was a kid.
I INTENTIONALLY have added this gun to my survival kit for very specific reasons…which I have detailed below.  If you’ve never considered a Pellet Gun as a survival rifle option, you might change your mind after reading this post.
As a student and instructor of survival living, I take my gun choices very seriously I recommend a “Break Barrel” rifle as it will never run out of air.
Here are my reasons why a Pellet Gun deserves to be including in your Survival Rifle selection:
A pellet gun is an excellent Small Game Hunter especially .22 calibre, is a great weapon to take down small game.  While people have taken larger game such as wild boars with air guns, they are best suited for small game.  Hunting small game is perfect for any survivalist.  Rabbit, squirrel, dove, quail, duck and the like are excellent food sources and are readily available in most of the country.  With practice, hunting small game with a pellet gun is absolutely no problem.
I have taken many small game animals with my .22 cal pellet gun.  It requires better stalking skills, but that is a good skill to learn anyway.  It requires better shooting skills, but that is also a good skill to hone in on.  Hunting with a pellet gun will force you to be a “Better” hunter and it will also put dinner on the table.
Secondly the Pellet Gun’s ammo is one of the more convincing reasons to have one on hand.  Pellets, no matter the calibre, are very cheap.
You can buy 100s of pellets for just a few pounds.  Spend £30 and you’ve got enough to last a lifetime of small game hunting.  If all hell breaks loose, traditional ammunition will become increasingly difficult to get your hands on. 
Not to mention that it will be ridiculously expensive.  If the world we live in ever gets this way, why waste your traditional ammo on hunting squirrel or other small game?  That would be wasteful and careless if there was a smarter way.  There is – pellets.
1000’s of Pellets Fit into Small Spaces
Not only are pellets “Dirt Cheap”, they are very small.  You can carry 1000s and not even know they are there.  You can store 10s of 1000s in just 1 shoe box.  To top it off, pellets have a shelf life of pretty much forever!  Traditional ammunition can go bad over time.  Especially with the talks of giving ammunition an expiration date, stocking a few 1000 pellets isn’t a bad idea.
Thirdly an air weapon is a silent shooter so forget the earplugs.  These guns are silent.  In many survival scenarios, a silent weapon is a good thing.  Not only can you hunt without drawing attention to yourself or your family, but shooting a silent weapon often means you can get off more than 1 shot if there are multiple targets.  Both of these are positive.  People pay 1000’s of £££’s to make their guns silent.  No extra charge for the pellet gun.
Lastly they are powered by air and you don’t have to buy air.  And, it’s never going to be out of stock.  For this reason, I prefer either a MULTI-PUMP or BREAK-BARREL Pellet Air Gun.  I will in future sell my CO2 powered air gun, and buy a break barrel.  Needing to refill canisters or tanks doesn’t make any sense in a survival situation.  You want to keep it as old fashioned as possible.  It’s hand pump all the way for this survivalist.
There are tons of options when it comes to Hand Pump or Break Barrel guns.  They both come in .177 and .22 calibres.  The fps varies depending on the gun. 
So there you have it, solid reasons why you should keep a Pellet Gun in your survival arsenal.
The Poison in our preps
Sawdust in Everything
Extra fibre. You see it in large friendly letters on cereal boxes, orange juice cartons, everything, but you probably wouldn’t touch the box if you saw the word “sawdust.” From crackers to cocoa mix, cellulose (a.k.a. wood pulp) is used as filler in everyday foods.
While the FDA deems wood pulp safe for consumption, the USDA limits cellulose to 3.5% of the total food mass. Maybe it’s time to go on that paleo diet.
Apple Seeds
An apple a day keeps the doctor away — unless you eat the seeds. Apple seeds (along with cherry, peach, and apricot pits) contain amygdalin, a compound of cyanide and sugar. Luckily, the human body is able to handle small doses of cyanide, so you won’t be keel over after crunching on a Granny Smith. Still, it’s probably best not to snack on a bowlful of seeds.
Cancer-Causing Artificial Colourings
Rainbow cake, neon popsicles, fruit punches and macaroni and cheese — they’re fun to eat because partly because they have such fun colours. But does that fun outweigh the risk of thyroid, adrenal, bladder, kidney, or brain cancer? Artificial dyes such as blue 1, red 3 and yellow 6 have been linked with all five of those cancers.
Correlation doesn’t equal causality, but you might want to think again before slurping down that next blue raspberry slushy. (It’s better than the olden days: originally food was coloured with natural compounds that included dangerous toxins like mercury, copper, or arsenic.)
Contaminated Bottled Water
Drinking water is one of the best things you can do for your health — but not all water is safe. While municipal tap water is tested and inspected on a regular basis, bottled water is only examined at the source on a monthly basis, Business Insider reports. After being checked once on masse, bottled water tampered with or partially opened may leave you exposed to a host of terrible substances like mould, kerosene, bacteria, glass particles, and even faecal matter.
Beetles in Frappuccino’s
Last year, Starbucks came under fire from angry, caffeinated vegans who found out that the mega coffee chain colours their pink-hued Strawberry Frappuccino’s with crushed up cochineal beetles, according to CBS News. At least they’re all natural. The company is not alone in their colouring practices. The beetles are used to dye many food products from yogurt to toaster pastries and have been used throughout history to dye fabrics in Central America.
Poison Potatoes
If you have a green potato in your kitchen, sadly you haven’t won a prize. (Unless the prize you’ve been wanting is poison.) Green on a potato is an indication of a concentration of solanine, a toxin that causes nausea, headaches, and neurological issues and, in rare cases, death. Rule of thumb for potatoes: if it’s green, it’s mean.
Toxic Metals in Lipstick
Researchers have found that along with that vibrant hue, lipstick may contain dangerously high toxic levels of metals like lead, chromium (a carcinogen), and aluminium in some lip products. These results were found in all levels of lipsticks and glosses from $6-24. Researchers say that these substances can damage the brain, nerves and kidneys, and are linked to multiple cancers. “Just finding these metals isn’t the issue; it’s the levels that matter,” said the study’s principal researcher. “Some of the toxic metals are occurring at levels that could possibly have an effect in the long term.”
Mercury in Fish
It’s not just tuna anymore: mercury is on the rise in all varieties of fish around the globe. Some scientists believe that just a small amount of the toxic metal, which is deemed safe by the government, can pose a threat to brain development or cause other health problems. The danger is especially high for pregnant women and children. The safest bets are cod, salmon, shrimp, and sardines.
Kidney Beans
Beans, beans the magical fruit, the more you eat the more… likely you are to get sick from high levels of phytohemagglutinin (PHA), a toxin that causes vomiting and diarrhoea. Just five raw or undercooked kidney or cannelloni beans can be bad news.
In the 1970s, there was an outbreak of kidney bean poisoning when hundreds of Brits used their new slow cookers to make beans and toast, a popular breakfast. Simmering kidney beans on low actually increases their toxicity. Luckily, after being boiled for just 10 minutes, the chance of poisoning is almost zero.
Chemicals in Packaging
Keeping food and drinks fresh used to be a bit of a gamble — goatskin sacks were quite popular back in the day but apparently left a musty aftertaste. Then science developed tin cans and plastic and the world changed — for the better, it seemed. Now, BPA (Bisphenol A), which is used in clear plastic bottles and as food can liners, has been linked with reproductive abnormalities, prostate cancers, diabetes, and heart disease.
Though the use of the chemical has been restricted by Canada and some U.S. states, Consumer Reports found evidence of the chemical even in cans that were labelled BPA-free.
Rat Fur and Insects
According to many scientists, one of the best things we can do for our ecosystem is to eat bugs instead of meat. Even if you think you could never stomach a creepy crawler, chances are, you’re already eating a lot of them and don’t know it. As dictated by the FDA, food and drink manufacturers are allowed a certain amount of bugs and rodent hair in their products.
Peanut butter is allowed to contain one rodent hair per 100 grams. Pasta can have 225 bug parts per 225 grams of pasta. Canned mushrooms should probably be avoided at all costs. Only if there are more than 20 maggots per 100 grams of mushrooms will the FDA take notice.
Fungus Free — At a Price
In many ways, modern farming has been a boon to humanity. Production is up and incidences of famine are down. But the use of fertilizers, pesticides, and fungicides come at a price. In order to keep the fruit growing healthily, farmers spray apples with fungicides such as diphenylamine and thiabendazole. The former can cause long-term damage to your kidney, liver, and bladder, while the latter has been linked to nervous system damage. A recent study found that nearly 80% of all conventionally grown apples had traces of these pesticides on them, even after washing. Unless you’re buying organic, chances are you’re eating these poisons.
The Bug out Week End is coming
Community of UK Preppers on FB are having a (Bug out weekend)
So why not join them on the 2nd to the 4th may 2015 to share and learn ideas with other like-minded people

The location on the East coast of Humberside

Available Spaces
All spaces are designated specific areas of the Bug Out Weekend location that are suitable for that type of bugging out system as the location is a wild managed area and has a range of different types of ground.

All the places listed here are for the tree covered areas of the location.

1. Hammocks: ---------------------15 spaces.

2. Tarps and tents----------------10 Places

3. 4x4 and off road vehicles----20 places.

4. Campervans and trailers----15 places

There is a large open ground area of the location for the Bug Out Weekend to use whatever system you choose, but I will be limiting these spaces to 40 spaces.

Admission Fee
£20.00 for adult over 16 years

£10.00 for child under 16 years

Free for child under 10 years

Traders and promoters are welcome for no extra cost to the entrance fee

Anyone who says they are going to the event must pay a non-refundable £5.00 deposit per person to secure their place.
How to make deposit payment.
Only if you wish to attend say you are going and I will message you and give you the Paypal address with a payment reference number.

Once payment has been made i will send you your payment receipt reference number. This number is to be presented on entry to the Bug out Weekend where the deposit will be deducted from the admission cost.

Please arrange any train Tickets to Scunthorpe as soon as possible (ASAP) as this will save you money and could be cheaper than your own car.
We can arrange to pick you up from Scunthorpe Train Station and drop you back off for a fee of £3.00. Please let me know as soon as possible if you require this service.

There will be a toilet facility in place.

There will be ranges for Archery, Crossbow, Air rifle, live round rifles and shotgun too.

There will be a solar Shower available with hot water available if needed..

There will be a Marquee set up in case of any wet weather so it won't stop people who want to do a bit of socialising

There will be a BBQ for anyone who wants to have a good old meat feast at the cost of £5.00 per head

UK Firearms Licensing Act

For anyone who wishes to bring along a gun or rifle that requires to be licensed under the UK Firearms licensing act 1968.

It is every owner’s responsibility to ensure they are covered under the Uk Firearms licensing act and proof of cover for any such firearms must be shown before you are allowed entry to the Bug out Weekend meeting.

The organisers or associates will not be held responsible for any transportation of unlicensed Firearms to or from the Bug Out Weekend.

See the link below

Strict safety rules and timing guidelines at the range points must be followed at all times.

All guidelines and disclaimers will be presented on entry to the Bug Out Weekend meeting by security staff.

All guidelines and disclaimers must be read and understood before entry to the Bug out Weekend.

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