I start this week with the Blizzard Survival Discount Offer, Ribz Discount Offer and the Wilderness121 Discount Offer and Field Leisure Discount Offer, THE BUSHCRAFT SHOW, How to Make Char cloth, What Is A Faraday Cage?, Support these Companies, The Neutron Bomb, How To Make A Feather Stick For Fire Lighting, Water for Survival, More companies to support, How To!!!, Making Cordage from Natural Fibres, How to Gain Permission to Use Land for survival training, First Aid Kit and First Aid Training, Lyme Disease, How to Read a Compass, Magnetic or Geographic? Survival Fishing, Basic Wilderness Survival Skills, Types of Campfires, Selection of your Campsite, The Birch Tree, Further Companies to Support, THE ELEVENTH WILDERNESS GATHERING
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A front pack is a pack or bag that allows for access of
equipment from the persons chest. Front packs first and foremost allow for easy
access of gear without the removal of any equipment.
In many adventure outdoor activities it can be critical to
the sport to have the ability to reach essential gear fast without the removal
of a backpack. Simplicity is the foremost purpose of the front pack but there
are many additional benefits as well.
Weight distribution and balance is a key element in the utility
of the front pack. Shifting weight forward in situations when carrying heavy
loads can be critical to the comfort and balance of an individual.
Backpacking is a sport where in many situations it is
critical to both minimize and maximize the contents of your load for a longer
or lighter duration of stay. The ability to move small amounts of weight to the
frontal region significantly reduces overall stress on a person’s shoulders and
back.
Moving a small amount of heavy equipment forward to a front
pack can allow for an individual to either maximize or minimize the overall
load contained in a backpack.
In all there are unlimited uses for the front pack. Front
packs are the best compliment to any outdoorsman’s gear when accessibility,
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How to Make
Char cloth
Fire making is a basic survival skill that must be learnt
then practiced regularly or you could find yourself stuck in the wilderness
without a way to boil your water or cook your food.
In order to make a fire, it’s more than just making a spark
from a magnesium firesteel, fire piston, flint and steel, or a flame from a
lighter. You need that ignition source to easily catch on to something that’ll
burn long enough for the kindling to catch, which is supposed to burn long
enough for your fuel wood to burn. That something is called Tinder.
The components of a good tinder are:
- you have it with you or can find it when you need it
- it catches fire easily in whatever weather or environment you’re in
- it burns long enough to catch your kindling on fire
I have to say that having one of Bushcraft tools fire
pistons I recommend Char Cloth. Technically, char cloth is an addition to your
tinder stock.
So what is char cloth I hear you ask?
Char cloth is an organic material (like cotton) that has
been heated enough that all (most) of the gasses inside have left but has been
protected from burning itself up.
When something burns, it’s actually a chemical reaction with
oxygen or a similar gas. When something like wood or cotton burns, chemicals
like carbon monoxide, hydrogen and carbon dioxide are
released into the air.
If you heat up something like cotton to a certain point and
don’t let oxygen into the area for it to burn, the gasses will be released but
the material itself won’t combust. That’s essentially all you need to do to
make char cloth in theory, but let’s look at how you make it.
How do you make charred cloth?
The simplest prepper method of making char cloth is to take
something like pieces of cotton from a t-shirt or old jeans and put it into a
small tin, like an altoids tin or an air pellet tin. You can also use a tuna
tin, coffee tin etc. as long as you can seal it fairly well after you put the
material in it and it won’t burn itself up.
I wanted to make some char cloth just using stuff I had
lying around the house so instead of an altoids tin I used an old pellet tin I
had lying around.
You need the gasses to escape from the inside after they’re
released from the cotton, so you need to poke a small hole in the tin with something
like a nail. You don’t want it too big though, or oxygen will get in and your
fabric will catch fire.
I got my Gillie Kettle out and lit it and put the old pellet
tin on top then I cut a strip denim from some old jeans about as wide as the
tin is long, rolled it up and put it into the tin. The smoke was coming out of
the hole in the top of the tin, and if I was to put a flame to it, that smoke
would catch fire.
This is essentially a mini-gasifier. That gas is flammable
enough to be used in a generator or carb for an engine.
Then, you just cook the tin in the fire for a while until
you don’t see any more smoke coming out, and that’s it. Depending on how much
stuff you have, how big your tin is and how hot your fire is, it should take
anywhere from 15-45 minutes.
Obviously, the proof is in the pudding so I took out my
magnesium fire starter that I keep in my pocket as a part of my EDC kit, and it
lit after one spark.
That’s really all there is to it. You should experiment with
different types of fabrics and different temperatures and times to heat it up
but it’s not really all that hard. You don’t even need to use cloth. Almost any
organic material should work, such as wood or plant fibres. You just need to
get all the gasses out without burning it.
Char cloth vs other tinder?
Char cloth catches so easily that just one spark will
usually catch, so not only can you place it right under your tinder bundle,
things like a breeze or damp air shouldn’t be a problem. It will burn usually
for a few minutes too, giving it enough time to catch. Because it doesn’t
give off a flame though, char cloth isn’t really going to be able to catch
kindling.
Other tinder like dry leaves, grass, cat tail fluff, etc.
burns pretty well but isn’t always easy to catch from a spark. Especially if
it’s damp out.
Putting them together though, makes a powerful combination.
How to use char cloth to start a fire.
Char cloth catches easily but it won’t burn hot enough to
catch twigs on fire unless they’re REALLY tiny.
You also probably won’t have a lot of char cloth in your
kit. It will, however, burn enough to catch other tinder on fire. By making a
tinder bundle out of dry material that burns quickly and then putting the char
cloth in side it, you make an easy-to-light pile of stuff known as a nest that
will burn hot enough to catch twigs.
Having a successful fire started is all about sticking to
the sequence of fire starting. The spark catches the char cloth. The char cloth
catches the rest of the tinder. The tinder then catches your kindling. The
kindling catches the fuel wood and you can then boil water or cook a meal.
What Is A
Faraday Cage?
A Faraday Cage (or Shield) can be described as an enclosure
created by conducting materials that blocks external electric fields (both
static and non-static).
These shields – cages can be used to protect different kinds
of electronic equipment from electrostatic discharges. They can’t block
magnetic fields like Earth’s magnetic field, but they can protect the interior
from electromagnetic radiation coming from the outside.
The Invention of the Faraday Cage
Michael Faraday invented the “cages” in 1836, and they were
named after him, but Benjamin Franklin also made a great contribution to
“Faraday Cage” development and application.
Faraday noticed that the conductor charge (on a charged
conductor) did not influence anything that was enclosed within; the charge
resided only on the exterior.
Faraday constructed a room, coated the entire room with
metal foil, and used an electrostatic generator to create high-voltage
discharges that stroke the outside of his metal foil-coated room. He found no
electric charge on the inside walls. Faraday used an electroscope to prove
this.
In 1755, Benjamin Franklin discovered what we now call “A
Faraday Cage”, in his own experiment. He used a cork ball and a can. The cork
was suspended on a thread and put into the can through a small opening.
Franklin found that the cork wasn’t attracted to the inside, although it did
touch the bottom; when drawn out, the cork was not electrified. If it touched
the outside, it would have been electrified.
How Does It Work?
An external electrical field leads to rearrangement of the
charges, and this cancels the filed inside. Electric fields (applied
externally) create forces on electrons in the conductor, creating a current,
which will further result in charge rearrangement. The current will cease when
the charges rearrange and the applied field inside is cancelled.
So what are the applications of the Faraday Cage
• Safety against lightening: The cage protects the
interior of the vehicle from the strong electric fields. Cars and aircraft act
as Faraday cages / shields to protect people when the vehicle is struck by
lightning.
• Microwave: the microwaves inside the oven are
trapped and used for cooking. The metal shell of the microwave acts as a
Faraday cage.
• Protections for electronic goods: Electronic
equipment can be shielded and protected from stray electromagnetic fields by
using coaxial cables that contain a conducting shell that acts as a Faraday
cage.
• Protective suits for power line workers, who often wear protective suits
that act as Faraday cages while working with high voltage power lines. These
suits protect them from getting electrocuted.
• MRI (Magnetic resonance imaging) scan rooms are
good examples of a Faraday cage. External radio frequency signals are prevented
from interfering with the data coming from the patient.
How to Build a Faraday Cage
Do you know that your fragile computer chips need protection
from the Electro Magnetic Pulse (EMP)? To prevent them from getting disrupted
by the EMP, we can build our own Faraday cages. There are also other numerous
examples of the Faraday cage. Here is how to construct your own Faraday cage.
You will need:
- Two cardboard boxes – one cardboard box should fit tightly
inside the other
- Aluminium foil
- 6 to 10 mm black polyethylene sheeting
- Grounding wire (wire that connects metal components in a circuit to the ground)
- An Alligator clip (also called spring clip / crocodile clip)
- Cellophane tape
- Aluminium foil
- 6 to 10 mm black polyethylene sheeting
- Grounding wire (wire that connects metal components in a circuit to the ground)
- An Alligator clip (also called spring clip / crocodile clip)
- Cellophane tape
• Place the smaller cardboard box inside the bigger one.
• Cover the external box completely with aluminium foil.
• Attach a grounding wire to the aluminium foil using the cellophane tape. Attach the crocodile clip to the end of the grounding wire.
• Wrap the covered box with the black polyethylene sheeting
• Use tape to prevent the foil from ripping
• Put the item into the smaller box
• Cover the external box completely with aluminium foil.
• Attach a grounding wire to the aluminium foil using the cellophane tape. Attach the crocodile clip to the end of the grounding wire.
• Wrap the covered box with the black polyethylene sheeting
• Use tape to prevent the foil from ripping
• Put the item into the smaller box
Job done.
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The Neutron Bomb
Some people felt at the time that its
relatively small initial blast and large fallout was ideal for use in densely
populated areas, like Europe. Other proponents argued that deployment of the
neutron warhead could be used as a bargaining chip against the Soviet SS-20
missile which was viewed as a threat to NATO forces in Europe.
Opponents of the weapon argued that the
neutron bomb made the idea of using nuclear weapons in war more conceivable.
Because the neutron bomb would devastate the whole of a target, military
planners might not be as hesitant to use the neutron bomb as they would a
standard fission bomb.
Neutron Bomb
Timeline
Summer 1958- While conducting researching
on developing a large thermonuclear weapon, Sam Cohen introduces the idea of
removing the uranium casing from a hydrogen bomb to allow neutrons to travel
great distances and penetrate even heavily shielded armour and structures.
1961-The Kennedy administration decides
against the idea of developing a neutron bomb and introducing it into the US
nuclear arsenal because it may jeopardize the moratorium on nuclear testing
being observed by the US and Soviet Union.
1961-The Soviet Union breaks the moratorium
on nuclear testing allowing the US to proceed with developing the neutron
bomb.
1962-The first neutron device is
successfully tested.
1970s-The Carter administration proposes
modernizing the US nuclear arsenal by installing neutron warheads on the
Lance missiles and artillery shells planned for deployment in Europe.
1977-West Germans realize their country
will likely be the battleground for use of the neutron bomb and begin hotly
debating whether or not the weapon should be allowed on their soil.
1978-Succumbing to international and
domestic pressure, President Carter decides to defer deployment of the
neutron bomb, conditional to Soviet restraint in military production and
force deployments.
1980-France announces that it has tested a
neutron device.
1981-President Reagan re-authorizes the
production of neutron warheads for the Lance missile and an 8-inch artillery
shell, but because of strong opposition in Europe, he orders that all neutron
weapons be stored in the US with the option to deploy overseas in the event
of war. The USSR announces that it too has tested neutron weapons, but has no
plans of deploying them.
1982-France begins production of the
neutron warhead.
1986-France announces it will abandon the
production of neutron warheads because of internal and external political
pressure.
Definition of the
Neutron Bomb
"Also called ENHANCED RADIATION
WARHEAD, it is a specialized type of small thermonuclear weapon that produces
minimal blast and heat but which releases large amounts of lethal radiation.
The neutron bomb delivers blast and heat
effects that are confined to an area of only a few hundred yards in radius.
But within a somewhat larger area it throws off a massive wave of neutron and
gamma radiation, which can penetrate armour or several feet of earth.
This radiation is extremely destructive to
living tissue. Because of its short-range destructiveness and the absence of
long-range effect, the neutron bomb would be highly effective against tank
and infantry formations on the battlefield but would not endanger cities or
other population centres only a few miles away.
It can be carried in a Lance missile or
delivered by an 8-inch (200-millimetre) howitzer, or possibly by attack
aircraft. In strategic terms, the neutron bomb has a theoretical deterrent
effect: discouraging an armoured ground assault by arousing the fear of
neutron bomb counterattack.
The bomb would disable enemy tank crews in
minutes, and those exposed would die within days. U.S. production of the bomb
was postponed in 1978 and resumed in 1981."
How To Make A Feather Stick For Fire Lighting
Attempting to start a fire in the damp or
rain can be laborious process, therefore, mastering the art of feather stick making could
mean the difference between being able to start a fire and keeping warm and
spending a cold and miserable night in camp.
Split wood burns much better than whole
wood and even if it is raining, or if the wood you are using appears damp,
the inside of the branch will invariably still be dry. Feather sticks
are simply large branches split down into smaller pieces to reveal the dry
inside, which is then shaved so that the shavings remain attached to the
stick, providing both tinder and kindling in the same handy package.
As well as assisting with initial fire
lighting, feather sticks can also be used to re-ignite a fire which has died
down, or which has been opened up whilst away from camp.
Step 1
Select a piece of dead, standing wood,
about 2-3 inches in diameter (5-7 cm) and about 30–60 cm in length, which is
straight and has no knots along its surface. Dead standing wood are
branches and twigs that have fallen, however, before reaching the floor, has
got caught on other branches or trees. This acts to keep the wood from
lying on the damp ground and becoming sodden and rotten.
Step 2
Take the wood you have selected and,
depending on its size, split it length ways into at least four pieces.
This can be achieved by taking a knife, and placing it at the top of the
stick, using another branch or batten to hit down through the top of the
knife, cutting through to the bottom of the wood, as seen below.
Step 3
Once the initial branch has been cut into
several smaller pieces, select one and place it lengthways on the floor or a
steady log.
Run your finger down the stick, you will
feel a prominent ridge, take a sharp knife and angle it slightly
inwards. Run the knife down the ridge, shaving the wood as thin as
possible, until just before the bottom of the stick. As the wood is
carved, the shaving will curl up as it nears the bottom, try and keep the
shavings attached to the wood.
Each shaving made will create a new ridge,
make a slight turn in the wood and cut down this new ridge. By moving
the angled blade down each ridge and repeating the process, fine shavings and
subsequently a decent feather stick can be created. Continue turning
and cutting the feather stick until the wood snaps or there is sufficient
feathering to start and maintain your fire. You will need several
feather sticks to achieve this aim.
If the feather stick is made correctly, it
will have thin shavings next to thicker shavings. The thin shavings
will catch a spark from a flint or fire striker, which will subsequently
ignite the thicker shavings creating a longer lasting flame.
Whilst carving your feather sticks, don’t
worry if some of the shavings fall onto the floor, as these can be placed
individually on your tinder bundle or flame.
In summary, if it is cold a wet when
setting up camp, a few minutes of extra effort, spent creating several
feather sticks, will pay dividends in creating a fire for warmth, water purification
and the cooking of food. Once the fire is going, more feather sticks
can be prepared and kept dry, to assist in re-igniting the fire in the
morning.
Water for Survival
Your body loses water through normal body
processes (sweating, urinating, defecating and even breathing). During
average daily exertion when the atmospheric temperature is 20 degrees Celsius
(C) (68 degrees Fahrenheit), the average adult loses and therefore requires 2
to 3 litres of water daily. Other factors, such as heat exposure, cold
exposure, intense activity, high altitude, burns, or illness, can cause your
body to lose more water. You must replace this water.
Our body consists of 60% water, 75% of our
brain and lean muscles is water, and 83% of water in our blood. Dehydration
results from inadequate replacement of lost body fluids. It decreases your
efficiency and, if injured, increases your susceptibility to severe shock.
Consider the following results of body fluid loss:
A 2% dehydration, results in a feeling of
thirst.
A 5% dehydration, results in a feeling of
being hot and tired, and strength and endurance decrease.
A 10% dehydration, results in a feeling of
delirium and blurred vision.
A 20% dehydration, results in death.
The most common signs and symptoms of
dehydration are:
Dark urine with a very strong odour.
Low urine output.
Dark, sunken eyes.
Fatigue.
Emotional instability.
Loss of skin elasticity.
Delayed capillary refill in fingernail
beds.
Trench line down centre of tongue.
Thirst. Last on the list because you are already
2 per cent dehydrated by the time you crave fluids.
In any situation where food intake is low,
drink 6 to 8 litres of water per day. In an extreme climate, especially an
arid one, the average person can lose 2.5 to 3.5 litres of water per hour. In
this type of climate, you should drink 14 to 30 litres of water per day.
With the loss of water there is also a loss
of electrolytes (body salts). The average diet can usually keep up with these
losses but in an extreme situation or illness, additional sources need to be
provided. A mixture of 0.25 teaspoon of salt to 1 litre of water will provide
a concentration that the body tissues can readily absorb.
Of all the physical problems encountered in
a survival situation, the loss of water is the most preventable. The
following are basic guidelines for the prevention of dehydration:
Always drink water when eating. Water is
used and consumed as a part of the digestion process and can lead to
dehydration.
Acclimatize. The body performs more
efficiently in extreme conditions when acclimatized.
Conserve sweat not water. Limit
sweat-producing activities but drink water.
Ration water. Until you find a suitable
source, ration your water sensibly. A daily intake of 500 cubic centimetre
(0.5 litre) of a sugar-water mixture (2 teaspoons per litre) will suffice to
prevent severe dehydration for at least a week, provided you keep water
losses to a minimum by limiting activity and heat gain or loss.
You can estimate fluid loss by several
means. A standard field dressing holds about 0.25 litre (one-fourth canteen)
of blood. A soaked T-shirt holds 0.5 to 0.75 litres.
You can also use the pulse and breathing
rate to estimate fluid loss. Use the following as a guide:
With a 0.75 litre loss the wrist pulse rate
will be under 100 beats per minute and the breathing rate 12 to 20 breaths
per minute.
With a 0.75 to 1.5 litre loss the pulse
rate will be 100 to 120 beats per minute and 20 to 30 breaths per minute.
With a 1.5 to 2 litre loss the pulse rate
will be 120 to 140 beats per minute and 30 to 40 breaths per minute. Vital
signs above these rates require more advanced care.
Tips:
Don't eat (especially dry food) if you
cannot find water, because to digest food your body will need water.
If you're very thirsty and find water, drink
it slowly, don't overload your system, and try to drink every 10 minutes
until you don't feel thirsty anymore.
Ways to Find
Water
Water is one of your most urgent needs in a
survival situation. You can’t live long without it, especially in hot areas
where you lose water rapidly through perspiration. Even in cold areas, you
need a minimum of 2 litres of water each day to maintain efficiency.
More than three-fourths of your body is
composed of fluids. Your body loses fluid as a result of heat, cold, stress,
and exertion. To function effectively, you must replace the fluid your body
loses. So, one of your first goals is to obtain an adequate supply of water.
Water Sources
Almost any environment has water present to
some degree, here are some?
Frigid Areas: Snow and ice can be melted. Warning: Do
not eat snow or ice without melting! Eating snow and ice can reduce body
temperature and will lead to more dehydration. Sea ice that is grey in colour
or opaque is salty. Do not use it without desalting it. Sea ice that is
crystalline with a bluish cast has little salt in it.
For sea water you need to use desalted kit,
do not drink seawater without desalting.
Rain Water: Rain water is not the main source in
survival situation but in case it rains and you're short of water it would be
of a big help, try to find a wide container, because the width in this case
is more important than the depth especially if it's going to rain only for a
short time, you may want to occupy the widest surface possible to take
advantage of every drop of rain the wider the better (a kids inflatable
swimming pool would be nice). Also you can spread a big clean sheet of
plastic and make a hole in the middle, place it about 2 feet above the
ground, place a bucket underneath the plastic sheet, exactly underneath the
hole, so that the rain collected from the big plastic would pour rain water
through the hole into the bucket, you may need to empty the bucket to a
bigger container and place it again under the hole. (Try to make the centre
of the plastic form a V so that the rain water will accumulate only in the
centre by placing a clean stone in the centre).
Water at the
Beach: Dig a hole deep enough to
allow water to seep in, obtain rocks, build fire and heat rocks, drop hot
rocks in water, hold cloth over hole to absorb steam, wring water from cloth.
The rocks will make the water evaporate; the cloth will capture the
evaporated water and convert it into water.
Alternate method if a container or bark pot
is available, fill container or pot with seawater, build fire and boil water
to produce steam, hold cloth over container to absorb steam; wring water from
cloth.
Water in the
Desert: In deserts you can find
water in:
Valleys and low areas
Foot of concave banks of dry river beads
Foot of cliffs or rock outcrops.
First depression behind first sand dune of
dry desert lakes.
Wherever you find damp surface sand
Wherever you find green vegetation
After you spot one of the options above dig
holes deep enough to allow water to seep in.
In a sand dune belt, any available water
will be found beneath the original valley floor at the edge of dunes.
Cacti can contain a good source of water,
once a barrel cactus is found cut off the top and mash or squeeze the pulp.
Caution: do not eat pulp, place pulp in mouth, suck out juice and discard
pulp. Without a machete cutting into a cactus is difficult and takes time
since you must get past the long strong spines and cut through the tough
rind.
Stills (Solar Stills): You can use stills
in various areas of the world. They draw moisture from the ground and from
plant material. You need certain materials to build a still, and you need
time to let it collect the water. It takes about 24 hours to get 0.5 to 1
litre of water.
To make a belowground still, you need a
digging tool, a container, a clear plastic sheet, a drinking tube, and a rock
(See image below).
Solar Still
Select a site where you believe the soil
will contain moisture (such as a dry stream bed or a low spot where rainwater
has collected). The soil at this site should be easy to dig, and sunlight
must hit the site most of the day.
To construct the still:
Dig a bowl-shaped hole about 1 meter across
and 60 centimetres deep.
Dig a sump in the centre of the hole. The
sump's depth and perimeter will depend on the size of the container that you
have to place in it. The bottom of the sump should allow the container to
stand upright.
Anchor the tubing to the container's bottom
by forming a loose overhand knot in the tubing.
Place the container upright in the sump.
Extend the unanchored end of the tubing up,
over, and beyond the lip of the hole.
Place the plastic sheet over the hole,
covering its edges with soil to hold it in place.
Place a rock in the centre of the plastic
sheet.
Lower the plastic sheet into the hole until
it is about 40 centimetres below ground level. It now forms an inverted cone
with the rock at its apex. Make sure that the cone's apex is directly over
your container. Also make sure the plastic cone does not touch the sides of
the hole because the earth will absorb the condensed water.
Put more soil on the edges of the plastic
to hold it securely in place and to prevent the loss of moisture.
Plug the tube when not in use so that the
moisture will not evaporate.You can drink water without disturbing the still
by using the tube as a straw. You may want to use plants in the hole as a
moisture source. If so, dig out additional soil from the sides of the hole to
form a slope on which to place the plants.
Then proceed as above. If polluted water is
your only moisture source, dig a small trough outside the hole about 25
centimetres from the still's lip the trough about 25 centimetres deep and 8
centimetres wide. Pour the polluted water in the trough.
Be sure you do not spill any polluted water
around the rim of the hole where the plastic sheet touches the soil. The
trough holds the polluted water and the soil filters it as the still draws
it. The water then condenses on the plastic and drains into the container.
This process works extremely well when your
only water source is salt water. Note: This can only be done as a last resort
in absence of other water sources.
Water
Purification
Rainwater collected in clean containers or
in plants is usually safe for drinking. However, purify water from lakes,
ponds, swamps, springs, or streams, especially the water near human
settlements or in the tropics.
When possible, purify all water you got
from vegetation or from the ground by using iodine or chlorine, or by
boiling.
Purify water by:
Using water purification tablets.
Placing 5 drops of 2 per cent tincture of
iodine in a canteen full of clear water. If the canteen is full of cloudy or
cold water, use 10 drops. (Let the canteen of water stand for 30 minutes
before drinking.)
Boiling water for 1 minute at sea level,
adding 1 minute for each additional 300 meters above sea level, or boil for
10 minutes no matter where you are.
By drinking no potable water you may
contract diseases or swallow organisms that can harm you. Examples of such
diseases or organisms are:
Dysentery. Severe, prolonged diarrhoea with
bloody stools, fever, and weakness.
Cholera and typhoid. You may be susceptible
to these diseases regardless of inoculations.
Flukes. Stagnant, polluted
water--especially in tropical areas--often contains blood flukes. If you
swallow flukes, they will bore into the bloodstream, live as parasites, and
cause disease.
Leeches. If you swallow a leech, it can
hook onto the throat passage or inside the nose. It will suck blood, create a
wound, and move to another area. Each bleeding wound may become infected.
Water Filtration
Devices
If the water you find is also muddy,
stagnant, and foul smelling, you can clear the water:
By placing it in a container and letting it
stand for 12 hours.
By pouring it through a filtering system.
Note: These procedures only clear the water
and make it more palatable. You will have to purify it.
To make a filtering system, place several
centimetres or layers of filtering material such as sand, crushed rock,
charcoal, or cloth in bamboo, a hollow log, or an article of clothing.
Remove the odour from water by adding
charcoal from your fire. Let the water stand for 45 minutes before drinking
it.
What not to
Drink:
Alcoholic beverages: dehydrate the body and
cloud judgment.
Urine: contains harmful body wastes and is
2 per cent salt.
Blood: is salty and considered a food,
therefore requires additional body fluids to digest, and may transmit
disease.
Seawater: is about 4 per cent salt. It
takes about 2 litres of body fluids to rid the body of waste from 1 litre of
seawater, therefore by drinking seawater you deplete your body's water
supply, which can cause death.
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How To!!!
A car could sink when falling off a bridge
or simply when there is a flash flood. Once you’re the water starts pouring
into your vehicle, do the following:
Stay calm, don't panic.
Unfasten your seat belt. (Don’t forget
that)
Roll down your side window.
If it cannot be rolled down: break it with
a heavy object (flashlight ...).
Don't try to break the windshield, it's
very hard to break.
Swim out and head to the surface.
Reminder: Don't panic and forget your seat
belt on, don't waste your time trying to save valuable possessions. SAVE
YOURSELF.
How to Survive a
House Fire
Statistically speaking, fires usually
happen between 8 pm to 8 am. So chances you will be asleep when that happens,
make sure you have smoke detectors in every room and that they're actually
working. Follow these steps:
When you see the fire or smoke drop to the
floor and crawl down.
When you reach a door, feel if it's hot
before touching it to avoid burning your hand.
If it's hot, keep it closed, because it's
protecting you from the smoke.
Try to get out of the window if living in
the lower floor. Or signal for help if otherwise.
If the door is not hot, open it and find
your exit from the house.
If your clothes catch on fire, stop where
you are. Don’t run. Quickly drop to the ground. Roll over and over. This will
put out the flames.
Call 999 or see if you can signal for help
out of the window with a white shirt or flash light.
Other tips are: prepare a wet blanket to
protect your body from burns. If there is too much smoke in the room, break
the windows to have fresh air in the room.
Plan and practice with your family before a
disaster hits.
Practice what to do with your kids when
there is a fire.
Decide a meeting place where the whole
family can meet (mailbox for example), so that if someone is not there, you
would know that person is still inside.
How to Survive a
Tornado
Tornadoes are unpredictable and
destructive; they can wipe out a whole area in a matter of seconds. About
1000 tornadoes hit the U.S every year. Knowing how to save yourself depends
on where you are. Below is what to do in 3 scenarios:
If you are in a structure (e.g. residence,
small building, school, nursing home, hospital, factory, shopping centre,
high-rise building) go to a pre-designated shelter area such as a safe room,
basement, storm cellar, or the lowest building level. If there is no
basement, go to the centre of an interior room on the lowest level (closet,
interior hallway) away from corners, windows, doors, and outside walls. Place
yourself with as many walls as possible between you and the outside. Get
under a sturdy table and use your arms to protect your head and neck. Do not
open windows.
If you're in a vehicle, trailer, or mobile
home Get out immediately and go to the lowest floor of a sturdy, nearby
building or a storm shelter. Mobile homes, even if tied down, offer little
protection from tornadoes.
If you're outside with no shelter then lie
flat in a nearby ditch or depression and cover your head with your hands. Be
aware of the potential for flooding.
Do not get under an overpass or bridge. You
are safer in a low, flat location.
Never try to outrun a tornado in urban or
congested areas in a car or truck. Instead, leave the vehicle immediately for
safe shelter.
Watch out for flying debris. Flying debris
from tornadoes causes most fatalities and injuries.
Listen to a portable radio (weather
channel), a key possession in a tornado, and wait for the official all clear.
How to remove
Ticks
Ticks may carry diseases such as Lyme and
babesiosis. You should remove the tick from your skin as soon as possible.
But make sure you follow these steps.
The best way to remove a tick is to make it
release its bite by pulling it off gently, leaving the tick and its mouth
parts intact. So try the following:
Don't touch the tick. Use blunt curved
tweezers or a thread.
Grasp the tick by placing the most part of
its body inside the tweezers.
Start pulling firmly enough to lift up the
skin.
Hold this tension for 3 to 4 minutes and
the tick will let go.
Do not squeeze the body of the tick because
its fluids may contain bacteria or tick-borne diseases.
Do not twist or jerk the tick while pulling
upwards because this may cause the mouth parts to detach and stay on your
skin.
People who are worried about Lyme disease
can place the tick in a small plastic bag and freeze, so that if they get
sick later they can take it for lab testing.
Wash your hands and the affected area with
soap and water
Watch for signs of such as Bull's eye rash
(Lyme disease symptom).
Making Cordage from Natural Fibres
In these modern
days in our throwaway society, cordage, whether its string, cord or rope is
taken for granted. Not much thought is given to it. A piece of string is used
and when its job is done it will probably be discarded. When a piece of
string is needed again, a fresh piece is cut from the ball and so it goes on.
However, to produce
a length of cordage in the field from natural fibres can take a significant
amount of time. Especially if a long, thin strong length of cordage needs to
be produced. There are two main methods of producing cordage, twisting and
plaiting.
Normally twisting
is used to create an initial length of cordage. Then plaiting can be used
with several of these twisted lengths to produce stronger, larger diameter
cordage (cord or rope).
Lots of different
natural fibres can be used to produce cordage. For example nettles, inner
willow bark etc. Bear in mind that the cordage produced from natural fibres
such as these are not as strong as commercial cordage which is now available.
o prevent cracking
and breaking care should be taken not to bend natural cordage too sharply
when using it in lashings or tying knots. One solution is to moisten the
cordage to improve its flexibility but, one disadvantage of this is that
water, as well as softening the natural fibres causes them to swell
increasing the diameter of the cordage. This is fine until the cordage starts
to dry out then any lashings or knots you have tied will become loose.
The outer fibres of
the common nettle can be used to produce relatively strong thin cordage.
First of all you must remove the leaves. This can be done by running your
hand from the bottom to the top of the stem. Grasp the nettle firmly and you
should not get stung. If you are worried about getting stung you can do this
process wearing gloves.
Once all the leaves
and stings have been removed you can crush the stem with the butt of your
knife then run your thumb nail down the length of the nettle to open and
flatten the stem out? Now take the stem and bend it over a finger. The outer
fibres should now be able to be gently removed from the hard inner core. The
outer fibres should then be put somewhere to dry until needed.
Take one of the
nettle fibres and hold it tightly between finger and thumb at one end of the
fibre. Then twist the fibre from the other end, rolling it over and over
until it kinks, usually somewhere in the middle.
The fibre will now
be half the original length. It will be doubled at one end. Continue to hold
this end tightly between fingers and thumb while rolling the two tail ends
around one another. When one of the tail ends ‘runs out’ add a new fibre in
and continue twisting. Continue this process until your cordage reaches the
length you require, to finish tie an overhand knot to stop the cord
unwrapping.
The roots of many
trees and plants can be used to produce cordage for example pine, alder and
birch. Luckily the best roots for cordage tend to be found near the surface
of the ground where they are thin and flexible. Using a digging stick or
spade gently dig down until a suitable root is found.
Then follow the
root along, exposing as much of its length as possible. This can sometimes be
tricky as roots tend to interlace and can sometimes be quite a complicated
puzzle. Don’t be lazy and try to pull on the root to remove it from the
ground as it’ll just snap. In general it’s best to remove the roots outer
bark but, it’s not always required. You can remove this bark by using a
brake.
A brake is a thin
stick which has a split at the end. You basically pull the root through the
split stick (brake) and this scrapes the bark off the root. Larger diameter
roots can be split in half or even quartered to produce the required diameter
cordage.
Splitting also
gives the advantage of giving cordage with a flat edge, giving a lashing more
contact area and therefore greater strength. To split a root start the split
with your knife. Then pull the two halves apart to continue the split. If the
split starts to run off centre, bend the thicker half more (at a greater
angle to the split).
Pay particular
attention when approaching knots or bends with the split as these may have to
be cut with a knife to stop them from running off.
As I mentioned at
the beginning. We tend to use cordage without a thought.
The old saying
“Easy come, Easy go” springs to mind. However, being able to produce cordage
from natural fibres is an important skill which should not be overlooked.
It is time
consuming but a skill well worth learning. One thing is for sure, after
making a reasonable length of cordage from natural fibres you will certainly
have new found appreciation for a humble piece of string.
How to Gain Permission to Use Land for survival training
In the United
Kingdom at present land is at a premium. With a population of around sixty
million which, is continually growing due to government policy and only
137,745 square miles (including Southern Ireland) making up the United
Kingdom, it comes as no surprise that it is not easy to find quiet areas of
land in which to practice the skills and crafts we are interested in.
So, how do we go
about acquiring some land, preferably woodland to practise our skills in,
legally and safely? Well there’s only one thing for it… you need to approach
the landowner either in writing, in person or better still both.
I would suggest
that you draft yourself a letter. In which you explain what you would like
the landowner to do for you and what you can do for the landowner. Now bear
in mind that this is an introduction.
The landowner
probably doesn’t know you, so it’s probably best if you don’t go in with guns
blazing asking for permission to build shelters, cut boughs off trees, light
fires, camp for the night etc. etc. A trust has to build between both
parties. You may know exactly what you are doing but, the landowner does not
know how competent you are.
I know for a fact that if I owned a piece of
woodland and someone I didn’t know approached me and asked if they could do
these sorts of activities in it I’d be pretty loathed to say yes. For all I
knew the entire woodland could end up being burnt to the ground. I’m sure if
you put yourself in the shoes of a landowner you can understand why it is so
hard to win them over.
Explain in your
letter that you are interested in nature, both flora and fauna and that you
would appreciate being able to walk across their land looking at what it has
to offer. Tell them about your interests in tracking, foraging for wild
edibles. Mention how some of the old country crafts and skills interest you.
Basically, take a soft approach.
Once you have
earned the landowners trust, then is the time to broach subjects such as
fires and camping out overnight. Also take the time to explain in your letter
what you can do for the landowner. Explain that you could be a sort of
volunteer care taker. You can report broken fences that are in need of
repair, fly tipping, other people misusing the land etc.
Explain that you
will leave little or no trace of your being there. You will carry all rubbish
out with you and in fact will take other peoples rubbish out if you come
across it. In this way you are offering the land owner a service for allowing
you onto his land.
As I have already
mentioned, I think it is a good idea to introduce yourself in person. Try and
use a bit of common sense when you do this. It probably won’t be a good idea
to make a nuisance of yourself by turning up on their doorstep at a meal time
or if they appear to be busy. And, for goodness sake don’t turn up dressed
head to toe in camouflage, yes you may wear this when you’re out and about
bush crafting but, rightly or wrongly it’s not the best first impression to
give.
So, let’s imagine
that you’ve been given permission to go onto the land you have asked about.
Give it a little time, a couple of months perhaps. Then call on the landowner
again. You could perhaps explain that you had seen some badger sets and would
love to spend the night in the woods observing them. You are basically
building the relationship and trust with the landowner. You never know,
eventually they might become interested in what you’re doing and want to come
with you (it’s happened to me).
Don’t dismiss areas
of land that are owned or managed by large organisations. I was told several
times by numerous people that there is no point approaching the Forestry
Commission, as they don’t give permission to anyone.
If I had taken this
advice on its face value I would have missed out on a large area of wooded
land (roughly three hundred acres) that I was very kindly given permission to
use by the Forestry Commission in my local area.
Take the time to
write those letters and make those visits. It’s well worth it.
Good luck and happy
land hunting.
First Aid Kit and First Aid Training
A first aid kit is
an important item of equipment, especially when you are using a knife, axe or
saw, therefore, it should be carried on your person (I carry a few select
items in a pocket using a small nylon, waterproof pouch e.g. plasters,
bandage etc. I call this my ‘small cuts kit’ with the main first aid kit in
the rucksack). The first aid kit should be stocked to handle every day and
worst case scenarios, as typically you will be a significant distance from
medical help. The first aid kit shown in the picture contains
• 42 x assorted
plasters
• 10 x antiseptic
wipes
• 10 x cotton buds
• 8 x Co-codamol
30/500mg tablets
• 8 x Paracetamol
500mg tablets
• 8 x Ibuprofen
200mg tablets
• 6 x Imodium
tablets
• 4 x safety pins
• 3 x dressing pad
7.5cm x 7.5cm
• 3 x dressing pad
5cm x 5cm
• 2 x stretch
bandages 5cm x 4m
• 1 x roll of
micro-pore tape
• 1 x tube of
Savlon antiseptic cream
• 1 x tube of
Lipsol cream
• 1 x scissors
• 1 x tweezers
• 1 x needle
• 1 x bottle of
surgical spirits
• 1 x field
dressing 20cm x 19cm
• 1 x water proof
container
The most common
requirements will by to treat minor cuts, splitters and blisters. To treat
blisters, first clean the affected area with surgical spirits and drain using
a sterilised needle (heated in flame) by making a small hole at the edge of
the blister and gently push out the fluid.
Then wipe on a
little antiseptic cream or surgical spirit and cover with a suitable plaster
or gauze and tape. Tip; ensure that the tape does not stick onto the blister
as this can cause tearing when removed. If possible remove the cause of the
blister in the shoe and increase padding using thicker or additional socks.
At night allow
blisters to dry by removing plasters and drain again. A rub with surgical
spirits also helps harden and clean the skin and on your feet and between
your toes. You should pay particular attention to medium sized cuts as these
can easily become infected.
Ensure these are
covered with a suitable plaster i.e. keeping the cut clean and immobilised it
whilst it’s healing. Tip, if a cut does become dirty keep a clean plaster on
overnight, its surprising how easily the dirt is drawn out.
The disadvantage of
keeping a plaster on for a long period of time is that it softens the skin,
when possible airs the cut to allow the skin to harden (although not
recommended I find that a splash of surgical spirits helps).
Worst case
scenarios are covered with a standard army field dressing and a selection of
dressing pads and stretch bandages. Pain killers included; Paracetamol
(general, reduce fever), Co-codamol (stronger), Ibuprofen (anti-inflammatory,
aspirin based).
Care should be
taken when mixing Paracetamol based tablets i.e. Paracetamol and Co-codamol.
Finally, Imodium tablets to treat bowl disorders.
And, last but not
least… Knowledge. I have seen extremely fancy first aid kits that would put
some A&E departments to shame. They include, defibrillators, suture kits
etc. But, if you don’t know how to use these items, they are pretty much
useless to you.
GET SOME TRAINING!
St John’s ambulance courses are available in most places. Better still and
much more applicable to the survivalist’s are dedicated survival first aid
courses.
Lyme Disease
Lyme disease is a
bacterial infection that is spread to humans by infected ticks. Ticks are
small, spider shaped insects that feed on the blood of mammals including
humans.
The most common
symptom of Lyme disease is a red skin rash that looks similar to the bull’s
eye on a dartboard. However, if Lyme disease is left untreated, further
symptoms can follow, including:
A high temperature
(fever) 38C or over.
Muscle pain.
Joint pain and
swelling.
Neurological
symptoms, such as temporary paralysis of the facial muscles.
A person with Lyme disease
is not contagious because the infection can only be spread by the ticks.
Lyme disease is an
uncommon infection. The Health Protection Agency (HPA) estimates that there
are between 1,000 – 2,000 cases of Lyme disease in the UK each year.
The ticks that
cause Lyme disease are commonly found in woodland and heath land areas. This
is because these types of habitat have high numbers of tick-carrying animals,
such as deer and mice. Parts of the UK that are known to have a particularly
high population of ticks include:
Exmoor.
The New Forest in Hampshire.
The South Downs.
Parts of Wiltshire
and Berkshire.
Thetford forest in
Norfolk.
The Lake District.
The “Yorkshire
Moors”.
The Scottish
Highlands.
Due to their
breeding patterns the tick population is at its highest during late spring
and early summer.
Ticks can also be
found in rural areas of many other countries including:
France.
Germany.
United States of
America.
Austria.
Sweden
Russia
There is a widely
held misconception that the outlook for Lyme disease is poor, and that the
condition cannot be treated. However, this is not the case.
If Lyme disease is
diagnosed in its early stages, it can be treated with antibiotics, and the
outlook for the condition is excellent. Most people will make a full recovery
within a couple of days.
Even if more
serious symptoms develop, they can usually be cured with antibiotics,
although a longer course will be required.
A vaccination for
Lyme disease was introduced in 1998, but it has since been withdrawn by the
manufacturer due to controversies over alleged side effects.
The best way to
prevent Lyme disease is to take sensible precautions when you are in areas
that are known to have a high tick population, such as:
Wear a long sleeved
shirt.
Wear long trousers
and tuck the legs into your socks.
Wear insect
repellent.
Inspect your skin
for ticks, particularly at the end of the day, including your head, neck,
armpits, groin and waistband.
How to Read a Compass
Navigation by way
of compass may seem daunting at first to a beginner, but this trepidation
shouldn’t stand in the way of learning to use one. In fact, once the basics
are down, a compass will be a valued friend in the back-country — one you can
always count on to help guide your steps.
This guide is meant
to be a general overview of the basics of using a compass, with or without a
map. There are only a few key things to keep in mind, and once you have
grasped these fundamentals, the realm of compass navigation will be open to
you forever.
Compass Basics
First of all, what
exactly does a compass do? In short, a compass is a fixed housing containing
a free-floating metal “needle” able to align itself to the Earth’s magnetic
field. One end of the needle will always point towards the north magnetic
pole.
An important fact
to mention here is that magnetic north is not the same as geographic north. A
map will make reference to geographic north, i.e. the North Pole, a fixed
point on the Earth’s surface, whereas magnetic north fluctuates in position
over time. This is known as magnetic declination. I’ll come back to this in a
moment.
In addition to the
floating needle, a compass may have a myriad of other features, but only a
few are really relevant to basic orienteering. The first, and most important,
is the rotating bezel on the face.
The bezel contains
the 360 degrees of a circle, or the azimuth. Another often-used term is
bearing. So the bezel allows the user to “dial-in” his or her desired
direction of travel simply by rotating the face.
Let’s say for
example that you know your home base is in a south-easterly direction, ~120
degrees of azimuth. If you wanted to make sure you travelled in that
direction, you would first orient yourself so that the red (north) end of the
compass needle is aligned with the N (0°) mark on the bezel.
Next, you would
rotate the bezel until the needle pointed to 120°. Finally, you would simply
rotate yourself so that the needle once again pointed to the N (0°) mark. And
voila, you now have your bearing.
Magnetic or Geographic?
There is one catch,
though. Remember what I said about magnetic north not being true or
geographic north? Well, the difference between the two is determined by your
location on the Earth’s surface, and it’s enough to really throw off your
bearing and put you into the nearest swamp.
Luckily, the bezel
holds the key once again. Once you know your magnetic declination, you simply
rotate the bezel according to that number. For instance, let’s pretend you
live in Seattle, and know your magnetic declination to be 16° 51′ E. In this
case, the difference is ~ +17° from true north, so we need to subtract that
from our current bearing by rotating the bezel to the right.
So with our compass
needle now pointing north again, our housing (and thus our direction of
travel) will be oriented to 343°. Confused? Not surprising.
But take heart, it
is much easier to understand once you have your compass in hand.
Finally, you might
be asking, “How do I choose the right compass for me?” While there are lots
of compass models on the market, the best ones will not be overwhelming with
features nor so bare bones that they lack even a rotating bezel.
My personal recommendation
is to go with a standard, liquid-filled orienteering compass such as that
made by Suunto or Brunton. Stay away from “button” compasses or those found
in the hilts of knives.
They are largely
inaccurate and will not help you in the long run. Once you grasp the basics
of using your standard compass, you can graduate to one with more advanced
features. That being said, as long as your compass has a rotating bezel and
can reliably point to magnetic north, you have everything you need to find
your way.
Survival Fishing
Spending my early
years in Northern Ireland, I did a lot of fresh water fishing as well as the
sea fishing. Regarding the fresh water fishing I caught a few trout (mostly
rainbow), bream, perch and a few pike. Sea fishing has mainly been whiting,
mackerel, flounder and if I’ve been very lucky the occasional bass.
Please note that in
normal situations you should NOT use some of these techniques that will be
covered in this and future fishing articles, in the United Kingdom as they
are illegal and others require the correct permit or licenses.
OK! Let’s address
the most common mistake that inexperienced anglers make. When I say
‘inexperienced anglers’ I’m thinking of people such as myself. I’m interested
in survival and bush craft not fishing itself. When I am fishing it is not
for sport or merely pleasure, although I do enjoy it to a certain degree, it
is to obtain food.
It is food which
may possibly help to keep me alive or at least enable me to function.
So, the most common
mistake made is simply dropping a hook, net, trap etc. into a body of water
without much thought of our prey (the fish) and relying on luck or chance to
catch our dinner. Well, like most things, it’s not quite as simple as that…
When fishing (no
matter what technique we are using) one of the first areas we need to
understand are the characteristics and behaviours of the fish we are trying
to catch i.e. there is no point fishing in the wrong location, at the wrong
time with the wrong tackle/bait. Let’s face it; you wouldn’t try to catch a
rabbit on a beach with a figure four trap baited with beef jerky would you?
The same principles apply to fishing.
Fresh water fish
species can be divided into three groups: predators (mostly eat other fish),
prey (mostly eat plants and insects) and mixed (mostly eat fish and insects).
A good indication of category is tooth size, larger teeth indicates a higher
percentage of fish in its diet (although it should be noted that most species
will eat small fry at some time during the year). In general there will be a
lot more prey fish than predators, therefore, play the odds and target this
group.
Locating the fish
is half the battle. In general fish look for two things: food and shelter.
Don’t select a spot to fish from with just your comfort in mind. Give a
thought to what a fish is looking for.
Most fish are
naturally nervous preferring to have an area of cover close by e.g.
overhanging trees, reed beds, water lilies, submerged obstacles etc. however,
saying this on large lakes they are equally likely to be found in open water
looking for food.
This is
particularly true during the summer when the water is warm (fish tend to be
more active), shoals of young prey fish can be found in open water near the
surface (float tackle about 30cm deep), whereas larger fish will tend to
prefer the deeper, cooler water.
The best way to
locate fish is to look for the fish themselves e.g. visual inspection,
breaking surface, taking insects, gas bubbles disturbed during feeding, fry
jumping to escape predators etc. When a likely area is chosen select an
appropriate bait e.g. caterpillars or fruit (elder berries) falling into the
water from an overhanging tree, slugs, worms, crickets on the river bank etc.
Remember to cut the bait to match the size of the fish you are targeting.
If a fish cannot
fit the bait you are presenting it into its mouth, it will not take the bait.
A tip worth
remembering – You can catch big fish with a big hook. You can catch small
fish and big fish with a small hook. Remember, play the odds in your favour.
Basic Wilderness Survival Skills
Fear – For anyone faced
with a wilderness emergency survival situation, fear is a normal reaction.
Unless an emergency situation has been anticipated, fear is generally
followed by panic then pain, cold, thirst, hunger, fatigue, boredom and
loneliness. It is extremely important to calmly assess the situation and not
allow these seven enemies to interfere with your survival.
Pain – Pain may often
be ignored in a panic situation. Remember to deal with injuries immediately
before they become even more serious.
Cold – Cold lowers the
ability to think, numbing the body and reducing the will to survive. Never
allow yourself to stop moving or to fall asleep unless adequately sheltered.
Thirst – Dehydration is a
common enemy in an emergency situation and must not be ignored. It can dull
your mind, causing you to overlook important survival information.
Hunger – Hunger is
dangerous but seldom deadly. It may reduce your ability to think logically
and increase your susceptibility to the effects of cold, pain and fear.
Fatigue – Fatigue is
unavoidable in any situation so it is best to keep in mind that it can and
will lower your mental ability. Remember that in an emergency situation this
is often the bodies way of escaping a difficult situation.
Boredom & Loneliness – These
enemies are quite often unanticipated and may lower the mind’s ability to
deal with the situation.
Building a fire is
the most important task when dealing with survival in the wilderness. Be sure
to build yours in a sandy or rocky area or near a supply of sand and water as
to avoid forest fires. The most common mistakes made by those attempting to
build a fire are: choosing poor tinder, failing to shield precious matches
from the wind and smothering the flames with too large pieces of fuel. The
four most important factors when starting a fire are spark – tinder – fuel –
oxygen.
1. Waterproof,
strike-anywhere matches are your best bet. Matches may be water-proofed by
dipping them in nail polish. Store your matches in a waterproof container.
2. A cigarette
lighter is also a good way to produce a spark, with or without fuel.
3. The flint and
steel method is one of the oldest and most reliable methods in fire starting.
Aim the sparks at a pile of dry tinder to produce a fire.
4. The electric
spark produced from a battery will ignite a gasoline dampened rag.
5. Remove half of
the powder from a bullet and pour it into the tinder. Next place a rag in the
cartridge case of the gun and fire. The rag should ignite and then may be
placed into the tinder.
6. Allow the sun’s
rays to pass through a magnifying glass onto the tinder.
Dry grass, paper or
cloth lint, gasoline-soaked rags and dry bark are all forms of tinder. Place
your tinder in a small pile resembling a tepee with the driest pieces at the
bottom. Use a fire starter or strip of pitch if it is available.
Before building
your shelter be sure that the surrounding area provides the materials needed
to build a good fire, a good water source and shelter from the wind. It is
important to keep in mind that smaller pieces of kindling such as, twigs,
bark, shavings and gasoline, are necessary when trying to ignite larger
pieces of fuel.
Gather fuel before
attempting to start your fire. Obviously dry wood burns better and wet or
pitchy wood will create more smoke. Dense, dry wood will burn slow and hot. A
well ventilated fire will burn best.
Wilderness shelters may include:
1. Natural shelters
such as caves and overhanging cliffs. When exploring a possible shelter tie a
piece of string to the outer mouth of the cave to ensure you will be able to
find your way out. Keep in mind that these caves may already be occupied. If
you do use a cave for shelter, build your fire near its mouth to prevent
animals from entering.
2. Enlarge the
natural pit under a fallen tree and line it with bark or tree boughs.
3. Near a rocky
coastal area, build a rock shelter in the shape of a U, covering the roof
with driftwood and a tarp or even seaweed for protection.4. A lean-to made
with poles or fallen trees and a covering of plastic, boughs, thick grasses
or bark is effective to shelter you from wind, rain and snow.
5. A wigwam may be
constructed using three long poles. Tie the tops of the poles together and
upright them in an appropriate spot. Cover the sides with a tarp, boughs,
raingear or other suitable materials. Build a fire in the centre of the
wigwam, making a draft channel in the wall and a small hole in the top to
allow smoke to escape.
6. If you find
yourself in open terrain, a snow cave will provide good shelter. Find a drift
and burrow a tunnel into the side for about 60 cm (24 in) then build your
chamber. The entrance of the tunnel should lead to the lowest level of you
chamber where the cooking and storage of equipment will be. A minimum of two
ventilating holes are necessary, preferably one in the roof and one in the
door.
Clothing must
provide warmth and offer protection from the elements. Layers of light,
natural fibers are best. Hats are a must, as they offer protection from both
the heat and cold. Water proof outer layers are necessary.
Equipment must be
easily manageable and promote survival in any situation. Items to carry in
your pockets may include a fire starter, waterproof matches and/or lighter, a
pocket knife, goggles, compass, small first-aid kit and some sort of trail
food.
Items for your
survival kit should be packed in a waterproof container that can double as a
cooking pot and water receptacle and be attached to your belt.
In addition to a
survival kit, a good, comfortable backpack is mandatory. Loads of about 18 kg
(40 lb.) are average. Items to include are; flashlight, extra jacket, socks
and mittens, a pocket saw, gas camp stove, first aid kit, emergency food, and
a tent and fly.
CHECK LIST
Useful items to
include on your trek are:
1. A map and
compass.
2. A large, bright
plastic bag will be useful as a shelter, signalling device or in lieu of
raingear.
3. A flashlight
with extra batteries.
4. Extra water and
food.
5. Extra clothing
such as raingear, a toque and gloves, a sweater and pants.
6. Sun protection
such as sunglasses, sunscreen, a hat and long sleeved clothing.
7. A sharp pocket
knife.
8. Waterproof
matches, a lighter and/or a flint.
9. Candles and fire
starter.
10. A first aid
kit.
11. A whistle,
flares, a tarp.
Before venturing
into the wilderness check weather forecasts and hazards.
BREAK
Types of Campfires
I have to believe
that one of the first things a creature did once it climbed out of the
primordial ooze was to seek warmth. I can certainly relate to that quest at
the end of a long paddling day. Despite the fact that proper clothing should
provide its wearer with adequate warmth, there is still something about the
glow and radiant heat of a good campfire that all the right garments can
never provide.
Like a friendly
mongrel mutt, any fire can give you feelings of warmth. However, knowing how
different fires direct and produce differing amounts of heat can help you
make the best fire for different circumstances. The "science" of a
fire is based on three elements: fuel, oxygen and heat.
The fuel is the
material that will start and then keep the fire burning. In order to burn it
must have oxygen. The oxygen combines with the gases emitted from the fuel as
it’s consumed - that gas is released by heat applied to the fuel.
Eventually the fuel
is consumed, the energy is released in light and heat and the process is
sustained by adding more fuel or reinitiated when a fire is needed again.
The key to any good
fire is a quick start, sometimes with only one or two chances to do so. Good
tinder - small dry shavings or strands or globs or drippings of quickly
combustible material used to start a fire - is critical.
Practice with
whatever fire igniter you prefer and practice lighting the myriad varieties
of tinder you can find outdoors: cattail fluff, birch bark, shredded dry
leaves, small blades and stalks of grass, lint from you pockets - practicing
what lights quickly and produces enough heat to start your tinder
burning is a key skill in becoming a competent fire starter. Tinder is the
base of your fire.
Most any larger
fire will usually be started from a tiny, burning pile of tinder (unless you
happen to go the shortcut route and use Boy Scout Juice - lantern fuel!)
Once you're
comfortable selecting and using tinder, learn what type of kindling can be
used to further fuel your fire.
The tinder should
burn long and hot enough to generate the gases that will ultimately ignite
and start the combustion process with the larger pieces of wood or burning
material that will be used to sustain your fire for a longer period of time.
Tinder is usually
dry sticks and twigs that can usually be collected on the ground, or in wet
country, from downed and dead branches and trees. It's often called
"squaw wood" inferring it can be gathered without tools and much
effort.
Sometimes larger,
thicker pieces of bark or even stout canes and stalks from vegetation can be
used as kindling. Tinder can also be used to generate a quick burst of heat
for cooking, or light for better visibility around the camp. Once a fire is
up and going, the larger pieces of wood can be used to maintain the fire with
less monitoring than with smaller, more quickly consumed materials.
All fires are not
the same; they can be built for specific purposes, to accent either heat or
light, and can be constructed so as to radiate heat in a certain direction.
TEEPEE FIRE:
This is probably
the most basic of fire designs. It is often used as a starter upon which
bigger, longer-lasting fires are founded.
It's also a great
fire for a quick warm-up or water-boiling snack break. This fire uses mostly
kindling, but larger teepees can be created by adding larger logs vertically
to the fire. Many beach fires are large teepee fires where pole-sized
driftwood is laid upright against others to form this familiar shape.
A teepee fire is a
good fire to direct heat upward and can be used beneath a hung pot on a
tripod for fast heating.
PYRAMID/PLATFORM FIRE:
This fire consists
of a foundation framework of large logs laid side by side to form a solid
base. A slightly shorter log is laid perpendicular and on top of this first
layer. Each subsequent layer is slightly shorter as the platform or pyramid
rises. This solid mass of right angle firewood takes a little effort to light
but its well worth it for the huge amount of coals it produces, especially
when the fire is lit on the top most layer and burns down through the layers.
A lighter version
of the Pyramid fire is the platform. It's similar in shape to the pyramid
fire except the logs are layered only along the outside edge (like walls on a
log cabin) with each level of logs slightly shorter than the ones beneath.
This creates a
hollow wood platform into which smaller kindling can be placed and ignited.
It can provide quick warmth and be the start of any number of larger blazes.
PARALLEL FIRE:
Sometimes a fire is
built between two long logs. If the logs are the same size, the tops of the
log can be used to place pots for cooking.
It has the added
advantage of prolonging the fire since the insides of the log are burning
too, and it’s easy to direct the fire up or down the length of the side log,
literally until the entire log eventually consumed.
A similar fire is
the trench fire, used almost exclusively for cooking. These work by either
blocking the wind or in funnelling the wind into the fire for a more
concentrated and hotter "burn". Several pots can be placed over the
trench and the fire can be maintained at different levels for a variety of
cooking options.
STAR or INDIAN FIRE:
A star fire, or
Indian fire, is the fire design often depicted as the campfire of the old
West. Imagine five or six logs laid out like the spokes of a wheel (star
shaped). A fire is started at the "hub" and each log is pushed
towards the center as the ends are consumed. It's another fire that can be
kept burning all night long with little maintenance.
REFLECTOR FIRE:
A reflector fire is
really any fire that has some sort of flat surface behind it to direct the
heat back out past the fire. This surface is erected behind the fire and
pointed, for example, at the face of a tent, lean-to or other shelter.
This back reflector
can be made out of a few large slabs of bark, several logs laid against
supports and stacked upon each other to form the surface. Rocks can also be
used but just like those used to ring a fire, make sure they do not contain
moisture.
That trapped
moisture can be heated to where it's like a steam engine with no release valve.
Exploding rocks can send shrapnel and shards flying in every direction!
Several fire
starters are on the market, from the basic match to clever kits that contain
a flint-like material and striker unit all packaged together.
Space-age lighters
and water/storm proof matches all can be your choice of fire starter. The
most important thing to remember about fires is learning how to build and lit
them long before you need one to save your life. Practice at home, make it a
ceremonial task at your next camp out.
As humans I am
convinced that the feelings evoked by a good campfire are remnants of our
cave-dwelling ancestral days. Even if we have a good coat on our back, and a
belly full of warm food cooked on a camp stove, there is something about a
fire that makes the campsite complete.
Selection of your Campsite
Selection of your
campsite is important to the enjoyment of your camping experience. Would you
rather waken to a sunny morning or a cold, damp shady greeting? Sometimes you
have to accept the campsite your map and plans have led you to, but even
then, there are usually several choices as to where you put your tent or
tents.
Guide books will
usually rate established campsites. Here are things I look for:
1. A level spot big
enough to accommodate my tent and the tents of my buddies, and also a spot
suitable for cooking. Avoid areas full of rodent holes; camp away from game
trails. Avoid camping near wood piles or other possible snake dens.
2. Threatening
trees full of overhead deadwood. Even large falling cones can provide a
painful awakening.
3. Gullies, narrow
valleys, etc. Flash floods may pose a serious and lethal hazard. I find that
camps above the valley floor but below hill crests offer fewer mosquitoes,
pleasing breezes, which also mean drier ground, without the high winds of
hill tops, sunnier exposures, and better views. These are also more lightning safe.
4. Camp away from
hiking trails.
5. Use established
fire rings. If you must make a new one, clear ground, make a shallow pit,
circle pit with rocks, and cover rocks with tin foil to avoid blackening and
high impact on area.
Do not remove
stones from creek beds – internal water may expand and cause the stone to
explode. Collect only dead, fallen wood for your fire.
NEVER, NEVER pull
wood from trees or shrubs. NEVER. Keep fires small – don’t waste wood. It
takes time to replenish itself and other campers would love to find some wood
available, too.
6. If others are
camped nearby, try to include some physical separation (trees, boulders,
etc.); 9:00 PM is Quiet Hour. Many campers are up by 6:00 AM to get an early
start on the trail. Respect the privacy of others.
7. Make sure there
is a water source nearby.
8. Restore campsite, as much as possible, to
its "pre-you" state.
The Birch Tree
The slender white
barked birch tree can be found growing on the hills and mountain sides in the
more temperate areas of the far north. It is considered to be a small tree
(some birches are even classified as shrubs) with distinctive white bark that
is marked with fine horizontal lines and a dark green triangular (or rhombus
shaped) leaves with saw-toothed edges. The bark, for which the tree is most
known for, starts out smooth and silvery white then turns bright white as it
matures. The bark also develops large black cracks in it as it ages.
For centuries,
Birch has been used to treat a large number of different maladies. Birch
based brews have been used to help cleanse the body of toxins or intestinal
parasites. The leaves have been used to treat infections and skin irritations
and the buds have been used as diuretic to help with various bladder
ailments.
The wood coal has
been used to help deal with toxins, the bark, ripped into bands and moistened
with water has even been used to help stabilized fractures.
Here are some other
things that Birch has been used for:
Diarrhoea
Constipation
Intestinal
parasites
Flu, fever, colds
Sinus problems
Dizziness
Dandruff
Allergies
Poor Circulation
Liver Problems
Urinary Tract
Health
The Birch tree has
many amazing traditional healing properties and recent medical research has
shown that the leaves, buds and bark of the birch do indeed have many
beneficial substances that can lead to better health and well-being.
The buds of the
birch tree, for example, have been shown to be high in Vitamin C, flavonoids,
and tannins making them helpful in the prevention of viral infection and the
formation of cancer. A decoction of birch buds has also been shown to help
increase urination and to aid in the abatement of oedemas.
Perhaps the most
exciting thing about the birch tree is the compound that is actually
responsible for making the bark so white and shiny. Birch bark is rich in a
compound known as botulin, a powdery substance that displays many valuable
pharmacological properties.
Studies have shown
that botulin could be potentially effective in the treatment of skin cancer,
respiratory syncytial virus, pneumonia, and has even been tested for its
effectiveness against HIV virus.
The unique biology
of botulin and betulinic acid have also been shown to help protect the liver
from toxic chemicals, and to help reduce the toxic effects of radiation and
chemo therapy. It has also been shown that places where birch is abundant and
the bark is used for many household items have displayed longer lifespan and
less incidences of oncologic disease.
The birch has been
prized for many centuries for both its aesthetic beauty as well as for its
medicinal value. Throughout the regions where it grows it has becomes a
symbol of health, healing, renewal and longevity, and modern research has
shown that there is more than just a grain of truth to these myths
surrounding this truly magical plant.
Using birch brews
or infusions can help cleanse the body, clear the skin, strengthen the hair,
and even help reduce the risk of tumours.
To treat diarrhoea
brew birch bark tea. Use a teaspoon of ground birch bark and 8 ounces of
boiling water. Allow the bark too steep for 15 minutes. Drink 3 cups spaced 4
hours apart to eliminate this health problem.
You can address
skin conditions with a birch bark paste. Use sufficient water to cover the
bark. Boil until soft and then mash with a kitchen hammer or pestle. Apply
the paste to sores, abrasions and inflammations. Repeat daily and watch for
improved skin health within a week.
Soothe sore muscles
by rubbing them with birch oil, also called birch tar. Massage with the oil
after exercise to reduce pain and stiffness.
Repel insects as
they carry diseases that can compromise health. Use birch bark extract. It
has a high concentration of acid that wards off mosquitoes, gnats and other
bugs.
Combine 25 drops
with 4 ounces of water. Use a spray pump bottle to distribute the mixture
evenly over exposed skin.
Accelerate hair
growth by brewing a tea using two handfuls of birch leaves. After shampooing,
use the tea as a final rinse. Massage the scalp. You can also increase
urination as this is important for the overall health of the urinary tract
and prevention of kidney and bladder stones. Brew a birch leaf tea or take a
tincture made from 2.5 grams of dry birch leaves. Drink one cup of tea or 25
drops of tincture, 3 times a day.
Further Companies
to Support
Uses natural fuel
EDC steel tools
Highlander Trojan Hydration Pack – Multicam
CUDEMAN HEAVY DUTY OLIVE WOOD BUSHCRAFT
KNIFE - 111L
Alum Crystal and natural spa products
Tool logic Survival 11 Credit Card
BackHawk Web duty Belt
Guppie Multi=tool
Go Survival Pack
Beautiful Handmade Catapults
1 Person BASIC Backpack Survival Kit, the
back pack that does it all
DD Hammock –The ultimate in Travel Hammocks
Elzetta ZFL-M60 Tactical Weapon-Grade LED
Torch
Ultimate Adventurer Survival Kit everything
in one kit
Adjustable Knife Lanyard Review
Handmade knives by James D. Sanders
Mini alarm Device with an Ultra bright
White LED
Lightload towels
The Power Trekk
The LUCI light
Nubé: (new-bay) The Ultimate Hammock
Camping Shelter
Check out Black
Cat Survival with its new shop Good Luck Guys
Maxpedition Jumbo E.D.C.
Solar Fire Starter Solar Lighter &
Survival Tool
The Wilderness Gathering
From a small event in one field with some
traders and schools sharing bushcraft skills and knowledge to a festival of
wilderness living skills encompassing bushcraft/survival and woodland crafts.
The show has grown into an event with
something for all the family with stories and music by the campfire in the
evenings and skills workshops and activities throughout the three whole days
of the festival.
The Wilderness Gathering has without a
doubt become the premier family event for all those interested in bush crafts
and the great outdoors.
The show has bushcraft clubs for all age
groups of children to get involved in plus more activities for all including
den building and wilderness skills classes for all.
There are hands on demonstrations of game
preparation, knife sharpening, basha boat building, bowmaking, greenwood
working, archery and axe throwing and primitive fire lighting to name just a
few. There are talks on survival phycology, classes on falconry and
wilderness survival fishing. All of these skills are there for everybody and
anybody to participate in.
You can probably pick up information on
nearly all the skills needed to live in the wilderness and prosper at The
Wilderness Gathering.
There is a wealth of good quality trade
stands that are carefully selected to be in theme for the show selling
everything from custom knives to tipis and outdoor clothing to primitive
tools. The organisers have even laid on a free service bring and buy stall
where you can bring along your used and unwanted kit and they’ll sell it for
you.
There are local scout and explorer groups
onsite promoting the World Wide Scouting Movement as well helping out with
some of the classes and site logistics.
The catering is within the theme of the
event with venison and game featuring on the menus plus organic cakes and drinks.
The woodland and open field camping facilities (with hot showers) giving you
the option to visit for the whole weekend or just to attend as a day visitor.
Check out www.wildernessgathering.co.uk
or call 0845 8387062
 0845 8387062 you really won’t regret it.
So dear listener don’t forget the 20%
discount at www.blizzardsurvival.com
by inserting the word “Prepper” at the checkout.
For 30% discount use the word
"TRAILBLAZE" in the coupon section within the Store. http://www.ribzwear.com/store/
Now pop along to www.wilderness121.co.uk
and check out their great range of survival related products and for a 10%
discount use the letters UKPRN at the checkout.
Please support our wounded http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk
Remember you can text my show on 0044 75545
07957 or leave a message on my
voicemail box. On the same number 0044 75545 07957
0044 75545 07957
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