I start this week with THE TWELTH WILDERNESS GATHERING 2015 13th to 16th August, followed by The GO ID Personal Emergency ID Kit Review, Blizzard Survival 10% Discount offer, Keeping Warm at Night, Breaking News the Brown Stuff has Hit the Fan, Luci EMRG review, the Ribzwear 30% Discount offer, The Swedish Torch, Making Cordage with natural fibers, the Wilderness1w21 10% Discount offer, The Faraday Cage, 4 Reasons to add a pellet air gun to your survival arsenal, Midimax 10% Discount offer, Boiled British Freshwater Fish Recipes, the Field-Leisure 10% Discount offer, Air Rifle Hunting, the Buggrub 10% Discount offer, Catapult Hunting and UK Law, Eating Crows and Some Recipes, the Hunter-Knives 10% Discount offer, Escape/Travel Belt Review.
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THE
TWELTH WILDERNESS GATHERING 2015 13th to 16th August
The
Wilderness Gathering has over the years become a firm date in the
diaries of those who enjoy bushcraft, nature and wilderness survival
skills.
The
previous eleven years have seen this event grow from a small event in
one field with some traders and schools sharing bushcraft skills and
knowledge to a festival of wilderness living skills encompassing
bushcraft/survival and woodland crafts.
The show has grown into an event with something for all the family with stories and music by the campfire in the evenings and skills workshops and activities throughout the three whole days of the festival.
The Wilderness Gathering has without a doubt become the premier family event for all those interested in bush crafts and the great outdoors.
The show has bushcraft clubs for all age groups of children to get involved in plus more activities for all including den building and wilderness skills classes for all.
There are hands on demonstrations of game preparation, knife sharpening, basha boat building, bow making, greenwood working, archery and axe throwing and primitive fire lighting to name just a few.
The show has grown into an event with something for all the family with stories and music by the campfire in the evenings and skills workshops and activities throughout the three whole days of the festival.
The Wilderness Gathering has without a doubt become the premier family event for all those interested in bush crafts and the great outdoors.
The show has bushcraft clubs for all age groups of children to get involved in plus more activities for all including den building and wilderness skills classes for all.
There are hands on demonstrations of game preparation, knife sharpening, basha boat building, bow making, greenwood working, archery and axe throwing and primitive fire lighting to name just a few.
There
are talks on survival physiology, classes on falconry and wilderness
survival fishing. All of these skills are there for everybody and
anybody to participate in.
You can probably pick up information on nearly all the skills needed to live in the wilderness and prosper at The Wilderness Gathering.
There is a wealth of good quality trade stands that are carefully selected to be in theme for the show selling everything from custom knives to tipis and outdoor clothing to primitive tools. The organizers have even laid on a free service bring and buy stall where you can bring along your used and unwanted kit and they’ll sell it for you.
There are local scout and explorer groups on site promoting the World Wide Scouting Movement as well helping out with some of the classes and site logistics.
The catering is within the theme of the event with venison and game featuring on the menus plus organic cakes and drinks. The woodland and open field camping facilities (with hot showers) giving you the option to visit for the whole weekend or just to attend as a day visitor.
Check out www.wildernessgathering.co.uk or call 0845 8387062 you really won’t regret it.
You can probably pick up information on nearly all the skills needed to live in the wilderness and prosper at The Wilderness Gathering.
There is a wealth of good quality trade stands that are carefully selected to be in theme for the show selling everything from custom knives to tipis and outdoor clothing to primitive tools. The organizers have even laid on a free service bring and buy stall where you can bring along your used and unwanted kit and they’ll sell it for you.
There are local scout and explorer groups on site promoting the World Wide Scouting Movement as well helping out with some of the classes and site logistics.
The catering is within the theme of the event with venison and game featuring on the menus plus organic cakes and drinks. The woodland and open field camping facilities (with hot showers) giving you the option to visit for the whole weekend or just to attend as a day visitor.
Check out www.wildernessgathering.co.uk or call 0845 8387062 you really won’t regret it.
The GO ID
Personal Emergency ID Kit Review
Whether you are on a
sola trip into the wilderness (not a good idea by the way), and you
have an accident or medical emergency and are unable to communicate,
or you are part of a group on a wilderness trip having had an
accident or a medical emergency and are unable to communicate and the
other group members are not aware of any medical condition you may
have, I would say you are in deep do-do. Imagine if any of the above did happen to you and you had the GO ID, which is visible to the rescuers or paramedics, now you know that they will be able to treat your medical condition and or take it into account when giving you treatment for something else.
The
GO
ID is
designed for everyone so that they can carry a warning to medical
personal that they suffer from illness or allergies or medical
implants.
The GO>ID
MISSION:
To empower people
with an emergency ID they can set & forget.
To provide financial
assistance to organizations which provide life-saving emergency care,
especially those lacking basic equipment to serve their communities.
5% of our profits
are donated to first responder organizations.
What’s in the
Package
Metal
GO>ID
— Comes in several colours and 3 types of metal.
Silicon
ID Cover
— Each ID comes with a matching silicon cover. The cover keeps your
information safe and discretely hidden when you attach your GO>ID
your shoe, key ring, zipper pull, etc.
Hook
& Loop Fasteners (2 loops, 1 hook) "Velcro"
— Thin and strong, easily attach your GO>ID to your watch.
Laser
Labels (3)
— Laser-specific labels are perfectly suited for your laser printer
— and they’re waterproof and permanent.
Inkjet
Labels (3)
— Inkjet-specific labels are perfectly suited for your inkjet
printer — and they’re waterproof and permanent.
Clear
Label Over-laminate (2)
— An added layer of protection for your ID label so you can take it
anywhere!
Zipper
Hook
— Clip or hang your ID in any easy to find location, like a zipper
pull, belt loop, keychain, etc.
Resealable
Bag
— Keep all of your ID Making Kit materials together for later use
in this handy resealable bag.
Protected
by GO>ID Sticker (1)
— They want everyone to know that you are protected with the GO>ID!
Reflective stickers can also help prevent night-time incidents.
When
you’re in need, first responders will need all the information they
can get.
GO>ID is the personal emergency ID which gives essential
information to first responders, even if you aren’t able.
You
can easily change your personal information as your situation
changes. Just print your personal medical ID label on your own
printer and you can … Go>Anywhere!
Alert first
responders with two of the most recognized emergency symbols in the
world — the star of life or the letters “ID”. Each GO>ID
comes with both symbols.
GO>ID is the
first ID you can easily wear wherever you want: on your watch, on
your shoe, on your backpack, your zipper pull, cell phone … any
place you can imagine.
GO>ID enables you
to carry more important information than most other medical IDs —
up to 250 characters.
There’s no chip or
battery so, unlike many devices, it won’t lose power or wear out.
The included ID
Making Kit makes it easy to print your custom labels and assemble the
GO>ID for how you want to use it.
GO>ID is designed
to protect your information and allows for anonymity while on the go.
Your personal information stays hidden and discretely out of the way
— either under your watch or in the included silicon cover.
The unique alert tab
lets first providers know you have important information for them.
The ID is
lightweight and comes in several colours and materials. The lightest
weighs less than a sheet of paper (1oz)!
The GO ID Personal
Emergency ID Kit's contents are provided and made by you, and all you
need is a computer the internet and a printer.
I firmly believe
that the GO ID will save further lives and provide a level of
confidence and reliability that has not really been available to us
in the UK before.
You would be foolish
in fact many would say reckless to ignore the GO ID. I have decided
to include the GO ID as part of my EDC and if out in the woods I will
transfer it to my outer clothing for peace of mind. You
can get yours at http://go-id.org/
Blizzard
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All you have to do to
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it is that simple. Www.blizzardsurvival.com
Keeping
Warm at Night
Sleeping warm is one
of the factors that can make or break a cold weather adventure.
Remember the body cools down during sleep and the blood is drawn from
the extremities (feet and hands) to the center or core of the body,
so proper insulation must be provided to prevent heat loss.
To stay warm and get
a good night's sleep on your next camping or backpacking trip, try
some or all of the following tips:
Keep hydrated during
the day and avoid drinking lots of fluids at night, so you won’t
have to go to the toilet in the middle of the night.
If you must go, use
a pee bottle, it’s better than exposing yourself to the elements so
to speak. Just make sure you label the bottle! Anyway, holding it in
requires your body to waste energy (calories) trying to heat up the
water in your bladder to 98.6 degrees.
Eat a big meal with
lots of calories before you turn in for the night. Calories are a
unit of heat, without them the furnace won’t burn hot.
Keep a snack with
you for the middle of the night, so if you do wake up cold you can
replenish lost calories and warm back up again.
Go to bed warm. Warm
up by taking a brief walk around camp or chopping some fire wood, in
fact any exercise will do.
Really fluff up your
sleeping bag to gain maximum loft before you climb in.
Use a good
insulating pad between you and the ground. Studies show that what you
have under you is more important in keeping you warm than what's on
top of you.
Wear a wooley hat to
bed, you lose most of your body heat through your head.
Keep your nose and
mouth outside your sleeping bag. Your breath contains a lot of
moisture that can cause dampness to collect in the bag as you sleep.
To keep your face warm, wear a balaclava or wrap a scarf around your
face.
Roll the moisture
out of your bag each morning when you get up (roll from foot to
head), then leave it open until it cools to air temperature. If
weather permits, set it out to dry, in other words air it.
Avoid overheating at
night and make sure you go to bed dry. Being too warm produces
perspiration, so vent your bag if needed or take off your woolly hat.
Make sure your feet
are as dry as possible before going to bed. This can be done by
having a pair of dry socks in your bag for sleeping only.
Wear loose fitting
clothing to bed so it doesn’t restrict circulation.
Keep your sleeping
gear clean. Dirt clogs air spaces in the material and reduces
insulation value making it harder to stay warm.
Fill a water bottle
with hot water before you go to bed and then strategically place it
at any cold spots in your sleeping bag. Just make sure it has a screw
on lid like the Nalgene bottles.
Or you can use
disposable heater packs or hand warmers, which costs a little extra
money. Or, in the old days they would take some heated rocks from
around the camp fire and place them in a wool sock. Just make sure
they're not too hot.
If using this
old-fashioned method to keep warm, make sure that the rocks are
completely dry before heating. Trapped steam may cause so much
outward pressure that the rocks may explode.)
Finally the old
stand by...to stay warm snuggle up to someone or use the Buddy System
(share warmth with others).
Breaking News
the Brown Stuff has Hit the Fan
Are you really
waiting for a "Breaking News " report on TV to tell you
that it's time to carry out your bug out plans?
Honestly are you
actually basing your families survival on the lying controlled
British media?
Yes, you heard it
here first on Sky TV this morning the brown stuff officially hit the
fan, so pack your gear, fuel up and wait for the flag.
Do you really expect
an announcement? What could be more obvious than the 'announcements'
we've already had?
This government has
given away billions of our money illegally to the banks and other
crooks who have been stealing our money for decades and were
apparently so financially strapped that they took that bailout cash
and gave one £M bonuses to their staff.
I suppose you could
say that there will be those who will think nothing of burning down
their local banks, which have been stealing their money and then
stole their homes with repossessions?
At some point, the
corrupt politicians and greedy corporations are going to brown off
and crap on enough people to incite a level of civil unrest commonly
known as riots.
To use an
Americanism Thomas Jefferson said, "When injustice becomes law,
rebellion becomes duty." The fan, folks, is aimed squarely at
us. Mr. Jefferson, we hear you.
So what more are you
waiting for hyper fuel and food prices? Just around the corner. As
that is coming, count on it.
There will be long
queues at the shops to buy anything at all? long queues at the bank
to get out what's left of your dwindling stash?
News reports of
banks and petrol stations burned to the ground by irate customers?
Perhaps you are
waiting for the event? an EMP/CME that knocks out the power across
the UK or the virus that wipes out entire cities, or an economic
crash that leaves the pound worthless and millions starving and
freezing to death.
Or, perhaps there
won't be any dramatic and totally obvious big-bang event that shocks
the world. It might just be a continuation of the rich stealing from
the rest of us until their karma finally hits them in the head.
That's one universal
law they can't escape: the inevitable consequences of their immoral
and criminal actions. Their sh1t, folks, is aimed squarely at them.
Front row seats, anyone?
My personal
favourites are a pole shift, and an Israeli attack on Iran A pole
shift and ice age are natural phenomena that happen from time to
time. Such an event is overdue.
Why would Israel
attack Iran? Well as it is backed by the U.S., they might simply be
told to, knowing that should it go wrong the U.S. is there to stand
with them. They might decide alone that the attack must happen to
prevent a pre-empted attack from Iran.
Is it now time to
bug-out? well not now OK as I don't see enough cause to pack up and
head for the hills.
Remember, SHTF does
not necessarily mean that it's time to bug out, it means that some
trouble has started.
We are in trouble,
folks, as indicated by what I have just said and depending on your
point of view there will be other events that will mean different
things to different people. Well I still thing that we have time to
make plans and prepare as best we can for an even uglier state of
affairs. I just happen to think that the sooner we prepare the
better, we owe that at least to our family's.
For many years we
have been watching and hearing the brown stuff hitting the fan for
and many of us are aware that we are closer to some kind of disaster
than ever in our history.
Unfortunately we
have a government who are more likely to drown us than to save us, so
don't expect any help from them.
Beginning to prepare
can be done step by step, there is so much information across the net
to help you, so what is stopping you?
Luci EMRG
review
Luci EMRG is a
lightweight (only 2.5 oz.), all-in-one lantern, flashlight and
emergency light.
This revolutionary
multi-purpose product, which provides up to seven hours of light on a
full charge and retains 95 percent of its charge per month when in
off mode, is always ready to use which makes it ideal for use in the
event of a power cut or emergency.
Its features include
a safety flasher and a high visibility red and white S.O.S. flasher
along with an ultra-bright flashlight setting and lantern mode for
diffused room lighting.
Extremely compact,
waterproof and durable, Luci EMRG is especially useful for blackouts,
car breakdowns and extreme weather conditions such as hurricanes,
floods, earthquakes, tornados in fact any man-made or natural
disaster, which make it ideal for we preppers and survivalist too.
Powered by
renewable, clean, free solar energy, Luci EMRG is a safe alternative
to traditional off-grid lighting, candles, kerosene, gas light and
battery power, making it versatile and safe enough for outdoor and
indoor use.
Additionally, the
product floats on water, is fully submersible and lasts up to 10
years without ever having to buy or change a battery.
Luci EMRG
4 settings: bright,
super bright, flashing, and red & white S.O.S.
8 hour charge
provides up to 7 hours of bright light
10 x 10 feet of
lighting
4 LED lights
2.5 ounces weight
Luci EMRG is the
most affordable and versatile product yet, and that’s part of our
overall strategy as a socially conscious company,” said Chief
Business Development Officer and Co-Founder John Salzinger.
MPOWERD sells
globally to both the developed and developing world, and high-volume
sales from markets like the U.S. allow us to both reduce costs and
create higher quality, more affordable products for those otherwise
forced to rely on dangerous fuel sources like kerosene and firewood.”
Luci
EMRG retails for $9.99 and is available at online at
https://www.mpowerd.com/
along with retailers such as Amazon, Nordstrom and Eastern Mountain
Sports (EMS).
About MPOWERD
As a socially
conscious, award-winning consumer products company, MPOWERD Inc.,
creator of the Luci inflatable solar light, develops and manufactures
game-changing personal clean energy products for use by people living
and playing on and off the grid.
MPOWERD is a
Certified B Corp committed to transforming people’s lives and
protecting the planet by making its products available and accessible
the world over.
Having
had the original Luci light for some years now, the Luci EMRG is a
very exciting addition to their product list and it is even better
for our purposes as it now has the ability to provide signals for
rescuers to hone in on. Well done MPOWERED. https://www.mpowerd.com/
30%
DISCOUNT FROM RIBZ
A front pack is a pack
or bag that allows for access of equipment from the persons chest.
Front packs first and foremost allow for easy access of gear without
the removal of any equipment.
In many adventure
outdoor activities it can be critical to the sport to have the
ability to reach essential gear fast without the removal of a
backpack. Simplicity is the foremost purpose of the front pack but
there are many additional benefits as well.
In all there are
unlimited uses for the front pack. Front packs are the best
compliment to any outdoors man's gear when accessibility,
functionality, mobility and simplicity are required. From horseback
riding, long distance biking, motorcycling and kayaking.
All sports where fast
and easy access of gear is essential, a front pack is your best
solution and as you can imagine it is going down a storm within the
prepping and survivalist community.
Your summer code is
"TRAILBLAZE" and can be used in the coupon section
within the Store. http://www.ribzwear.com/store/
The Swedish Torch
Here
is a method of making a Swedish torch with a chainsaw or splitting
wood with a bladed tool. So I thought I’d give it a go. You will
need straight dead standing branches a couple of inches in diameter
and green bendy sticks.
Make two small hoops
with the bendy sticks, think Christmas wreath here. Now cut the
branches all the same length bar one which is half size. Next arrange
the branches so the hoops fit over them.
The half size one
goes in the centre of the bundle, this aids airflow. Getting it to
stand can be tricky so I made a wooden stake and pushed that into the
ground and pushed the centre of the torch on to it. Stuff the top
with twigs and birch bark and light it up. It’s a method for a
quick brew or cook up on wet ground or if you don’t want to leave a
mess.
Making Cordage
from Natural Fibres
In these modern days
in our throwaway society, cordage, whether it’s string, cord or
rope is taken for granted. Not much thought is given to it. A piece
of string is used and when its job is done it will probably be
discarded. When a piece of string is needed again, a fresh piece is
cut from the ball and so it goes on.
However, to produce
a length of cordage in the field from natural fibres can take a
significant amount of time. Especially if a long, thin strong length
of cordage needs to be produced. There are two main methods of
producing cordage, twisting and plaiting.
Normally twisting is
used to create an initial length of cordage. Then plaiting can be
used with several of these twisted lengths to produce stronger,
larger diameter cordage (cord or rope).
Lots of different
natural fibres can be used to produce cordage. For example nettles,
inner willow bark etc. Bear in mind that the cordage produced from
natural fibres such as these are not as strong as commercial cordage
which is now available.
To prevent cracking
and breaking care should be taken not to bend natural cordage too
sharply when using it in lashings or tying knots. One solution is to
moisten the cordage to improve its flexibility but, one disadvantage
of this is that water, as well as softening the natural fibres causes
them to swell increasing the diameter of the cordage.
This is fine until
the cordage starts to dry out then any lashings or knots you have
tied will become loose.
The outer fibres of
the common nettle can be used to produce relatively strong thin
cordage. First of all you must remove the leaves.
This can be done by
running your hand from the bottom to the top of the stem. Grasp the
nettle firmly and you should not get stung. If you are worried about
getting stung you can do this process wearing gloves.
Once all the leaves
and stings have been removed you can crush the stem with the butt of
your knife then run your thumb nail down the length of the nettle to
open and flatten the stem out? Now take the stem and bend it over a
finger.
The outer fibres
should now be able to be gently removed from the hard inner core. The
outer fibres should then be put somewhere to dry until needed.
Take one of the
nettle fibres and hold it tightly between finger and thumb at one end
of the fibre. Then twist the fibre from the other end, rolling it
over and over until it kinks, usually somewhere in the middle. The
fibre will now be half the original length.
It will be doubled
at one end. Continue to hold this end tightly between fingers and
thumb while rolling the two tail ends around one another. When one of
the tail ends ‘runs out’ add a new fibre in and continue
twisting.
Continue this
process until your cordage reaches the length you require, to finish
tie an overhand knot to stop the cord unwrapping.
The roots of many
trees and plants can be used to produce cordage for example pine,
alder and birch. Luckily the best roots for cordage tend to be found
near the surface of the ground where they are thin and flexible.
Using a digging
stick or spade gently dig down until a suitable root is found. Then
follow the root along, exposing as much of its length as possible.
This can sometimes be tricky as roots tend to interlace and can
sometimes be quite a complicated puzzle.
Don’t be lazy and
try to pull on the root to remove it from the ground as it’ll just
snap. In general it’s best to remove the roots outer bark but, it’s
not always required. You can remove this bark by using a brake.
A brake is a thin
stick which has a split at the end. You basically pull the root
through the split stick (brake) and this scrapes the bark off the
root.
Larger diameter
roots can be split in half or even quartered to produce the required
diameter cordage. Splitting also gives the advantage of giving
cordage with a flat edge, giving a lashing more contact area and
therefore greater strength.
To split a root
start the split with your knife. Then pull the two halves apart to
continue the split. If the split starts to run off centre, bend the
thicker half more (at a greater angle to the split).
Pay particular
attention when approaching knots or bends with the split as these may
have to be cut with a knife to stop them from running off.
As I mentioned at
the beginning. We tend to use cordage without a thought. The old
saying “Easy come, Easy go” springs to mind. However, being able
to produce cordage from natural fibres is an important skill which
should not be overlooked.
It is time consuming
but a skill well worth learning. One thing is for sure, after making
a reasonable length of cordage from natural fibres you will certainly
have new found appreciation for a humble piece of string.
Wilderness121’s
10% discount
The new supplier of
Purificup to the UK is Wilderness121 and they really mean business,
having spoken to the director Rob Williams he has agreed to offer you
dear listener a 10% discount just by putting the letters UKPRN into
the code box it is that simple.
Now pop along to
www.wilderness121.co.uk
and check out their great range of survival related products.
The Faraday
Cage
EMP can be caused by
the detonation of a nuclear device in the atmosphere, miles above
land. Its pulse wave can easily cover a continent and destroy
electronic components in computers, engines, power plants, and solar
panels alike.
An event like this
has never happened on a large scale, and there are differing opinions
as to the exact consequences, but one thing is certain: In a matter
of moments, life as we know it would be gone forever. We are also in
danger from our closest star, the sun, which could also do extensive
damage in the form of (CME). The results would be the same as an
EMP..
In an instant the
post-EMP world would be back in the 1800's, but you know to be honest
I think it would a lot worse.
Without power and
the help of machines we would not have the tools, skills, knowledge,
and, in some cases, raw materials to make the most basic tools for
survival.
How many blacksmiths
do you know? Do you happen to own a pair of Shire horses and a wagon
for transportation?
You will need to be
able to sew to repair your clothes etc., but can you create cloth
from raw cotton or sheep’s wool?
The moment of an EMP
burst freezes time. The food, equipment and tools in our homes may be
the only ones we have for a long time.
If you have one pack
of toilet roll then that is it.
As with all survival
situations there is a way out, a solution that has to be learnt and
understood and then put into practice.
There is a simple
way to protect our electrical items from EMP/CME, and that is to
build containers to shield important items from the effects of what
could be as much as 50,000 volts of power.
The Faraday cage is
the answer. The good news is that they are very simple to make.
The hardest part
about protecting your equipment is simply doing it. A few rolls of
heavy duty aluminium foil, some cardboard boxes and any thing from a
biscuit tin to a galvanized steel bin are enough to create your own
Faraday cage and protect your electronics from EMP.
The simplest and
cheapest way to build your own Faraday container is to use heavy duty
aluminium foil.
By completely
wrapping an item in several layers of foil, you can protect that item
from the damaging effects of EMP.
Keep
in mind that every side of the item needs to have a minimum of three
layers,
so by the time you have wrapped it in foil, some sides may have more
than three layers.
This is fine, so
long as you have no less than three layers of HD aluminium foil
between any part of the item and the open air.
By itself, these
three or four layers of foil are probably enough to protect your
electronic gear, but when dealing with a SHTF/TEOTWAWKI event, there
are no replacements, nor second chances, so it pays to do it right
the first time.
Simply adding more
than four layers of foil to the device is probably overkill and may
not add any more protection than the initial three or four layers.
However, you can increase the effectiveness of your Faraday
protection and here is how to do it..
Simply place your
foil wrapped device into a shoe box or other cardboard box that is
wrapped in foil, then place that box inside a biscuit tin or if its a
bigger item a steel rubbish bin with a tight-fitting lid.
There is nothing
wrong with using many smaller tins with lids rather than just one
large one. With your devices protected by three layers like this,
they’re likely to survive even an enhanced EMP attack with a
stronger electromagnetic pulse.
Heavy duty aluminium
foil. You’re going to be using a lot of this.
Either plastic wrap
(or something similar) or plastic bags for each electronic item you
want to shield.
Pieces of cloth that
will be used to wrap items. This is a good way to use up old
T-shirts, jeans, and clothes the kids have outgrown.
Cardboard boxes of
assorted sizes
Small, essential
items that contain an electronic component, such as a clock radio,
walkie-talkies, ebook/kindle, mp3 player, Sat Nav, spare mobile
phone, etc.
Make sure these
aren’t things you’ll be wanting or needing in the near future. If
you don’t already have duplicates, make a list of what you want
stored in your Faraday container and then look for inexpensive
duplicates.
Firslyt, wrap an
item in cloth. This will add a layer that will isolate the item from
the foil and will also help to keep any sharp edges or corners of the
item from puncturing the aluminium foil.
Next, wrap the
object with plastic wrap or place in a plastic bag and then wrap with
at least 3 layers of foil. Use your hands to gently mould the foil
each time, making sure there are no holes or rips in the foil.
Place your wrapped
items in the cardboard box and then wrap the entire box with two
layers of foil.
Layering for EMP/CME
is just as important as layering for winter weather! Be sure that no
foil used to wrap the outside of the box touches any of the foil
within the box. When your box is wrapped and finished, store it off
the ground.
If you want to store
large items or have numerous items to store, completely line a steel
rubbish bin with cardboard. Make sure there are no gaps.
The foil wrapped
items cannot touch the metal of the rubbish bin. Make sure the lid of
the can fits tightly, and Bob is you auntie.
4
Reasons to Add a Pellet Air Gun to Your Survival Gun Arsenal
You
heard me correctly, I said Pellet Gun. Yes, the kind powered by air
I have a good quality Pellet Air Gun and it’s not just because I
still have it from when I was a kid.
I
INTENTIONALLY have added this gun to my survival kit for very
specific reasons…which I have detailed below. If you’ve never
considered a Pellet Gun as a survival rifle option, you might change
your mind after reading this post.
As
a student and instructor of survival living, I take my gun choices
very seriously I recommend a “Break Barrel” rifle as it will
never run out of air.
Below
are 4 reasons (in no particular order) why a Pellet Gun deserves to
be including in your Survival Rifle selection:
A
pellet gun is an excellent Small Game Hunter especially .22 calibre,
I think is a great weapon to take down small game. While people have
taken larger game such as wild boars with air guns, they are best
suited for small game.
Hunting
small game is perfect for any survivalist. Rabbit, squirrel, dove,
quail, duck and the like are excellent food sources and are readily
available in most of the country. With practice, hunting small game
with a pellet gun is absolutely no problem.
I
have taken many small game animals with my .22 cal pellet gun. It
requires better stalking skills, but that is a good skill to learn
anyway. It requires better shooting skills, but that is also a good
skill to hone in on. Hunting with a pellet gun will force you to be
a “Better” hunter and it will also put dinner on the table.
Secondly
the Pellet Gun’s ammo is one of the more convincing reasons to have
one on hand. Pellets, no matter the calibre, are very cheap.
You
can buy 100s of pellets for just a few pounds. Spend £30 and you’ve
got enough to last a lifetime of small game hunting. If all hell
breaks loose, traditional ammunition will become increasingly
difficult to get your hands on.
Not
to mention that it will be ridiculously expensive. If the world we
live in ever gets this way, why waste your traditional ammo on
hunting squirrel or other small game? That would be wasteful and
careless if there was a smarter way. There is – pellets.
1000’s
of Pellets Fit into Small Spaces
Not
only are pellets “Dirt Cheap”, they are very small. You can
carry 1000s and not even know they are there. You can store 10s of
1000s in just 1 shoe box. To top it off, pellets have a shelf life
of pretty much forever! Traditional ammunition can go bad over time.
Especially with the talks of giving ammunition an expiration date,
stocking a few 1000 pellets isn’t a bad idea.
Thirdly
an air weapon is a silent shooter so forget the earplugs. These guns
are silent. In many survival scenarios, a silent weapon is a good
thing. Not only can you hunt without drawing attention to yourself
or your family, but shooting a silent weapon often means you can get
off more than 1 shot if there are multiple targets.
Both
of these are positive. People pay 1000’s of £££’s to make
their guns silent. No extra charge for the pellet gun.
Lastly
they are powered by air and you don’t have to buy air. And, it’s
never going to be out of stock. For this reason, I prefer either a
MULTI-PUMP or BREAK-BARREL Pellet Air Gun.
I
will in future sell my CO2 powered air gun, and buy a break barrel.
Needing to refill canisters or tanks doesn’t make any sense in a
survival situation. You want to keep it as old fashioned as
possible. It’s hand pump all the way for this survivalist.
There
are tons of options when it comes to Hand Pump or Break Barrel guns.
They both come in .177 and .22 calibres. The fps varies depending on
the gun.
So there you have it, 4 solid
reasons why you should keep a Pellet Gun in your survival arsenal.
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Benefits
of Animals when Living Off the Grid
If you go the extra
mile and decide to keep animals, you will greatly reduce your
dependence on the outside world of shops & supermarkets because
animals can provide you with the following:
Meat and Poultry (fresh
meat, no hormones, healthier food).
Milk and Eggs (will
make you happy every morning).
You can obtain other
by-products such as cheese and butter (once you learn how to make
them).
Animals are also great
pets and can bring joy to the whole family.
Can keep the grass
mowed down for you.
Can provide you with
fertilizers for your plants.
They can multiply,
which means you have the option to sell or increase production.
Goats are one of the
best choice's when living off the grid, because they're low
maintenance, they can basically take care of themselves.
Goats can survive on
bushes, trees, desert scrub and aromatic herbs when sheep and cattle
would starve to death. Goat milk casein and milk fat are more easily
digested than cow milk.
Goat milk is valued for
the elderly, sick, babies, children with cow milk allergies, patients
with ulcers.
Goats have a lot to
offer, and they don't ask much in return. They can clear invasive
weeds, offer fresh goat milk, and they can be a fun pet. They can
also be used for meat if necessary.
Goats can be quite a
bit of work too, but many people are finding that raising urban goats
is quite rewarding.
Before getting a cow,
think hard about it. A cow is the biggest tie in the farm, you will
have to milk her twice a day, to feed the cow you need to grow
fodder, to use up the manure from the cow you will have to dig or
plough more land ... unless you’re dedicated to spend more time in
the farm, think loud and often before getting a cow.
On the other hand, a
cow will save you more money in the farm than anything else, milk,
butter and cheese go up and up in price, you can also sell or trade
calves if you want for something else you might need more on the
farm.
Sheep are a very good
thing to keep. Sheep live and fatten on grass. Don't even make
demands on your hay unless the ground is covered with snow (and even
then they won't eat hay unless they have previously learnt to); they
are thus cheap to keep.
A good number would be
4 ewes and a ram (or ask a neighbouring farmer if you could borrow
his ram for a few days).
Choose the breed that
is native to the country you live in. Very good pasture may carry
three ewes with their lambs per acre, less good two ewes and their
lambs. You might average one and a half lambs per ewe.
But they will do far
better if you rotate them around the farm: put them on, say, a
quarter of your grass acreage and keep them there until they have
nibbled the grass right down, then move them on to the next quarter.
In this way let them follow the cows—sheep will graze very well
after cows have had all they can get: cows will starve after sheep.
To raise chicken the
humane and healthy way is to give them enough space to scrap, to
perch, to flap their wings and take dust baths (which is not possible
and even cruel in a wire cage).
If you want to have
eggs all year then a couple of dozen of hens will do. Give each hen a
handful of grain every evening and a handful or two of high protein
food in the morning, and any scraps you can spare, and they will do
the rest.
They will eat a lot of
grass and a lot of earwigs. They will hatch you out a clutch of
pretty little chicks. Keep them out of your garden or they will play
hell with it.
Always keep a cock
among your hens, hens like having fun as much as we do. Let your
chicken run right out into the fields and woods. They will be getting
so much free food.
Why go in for
incubators and brooders when hens will do all that work for nothing
for you? Hens will be able to give you eggs from grain and household
scraps alone, but not many. If hens are really to produce eggs they
must have some protein.
Raising geese is very
easy and require very low maintenance if any. A pen of geese, say
three geese and a gander will run happily about the fields, and live
on grass with just a handful of grain thrown to them every night to
lure them home to shut them in from the foxes, otherwise they don’t
need any grain.
But you must protect
them from rats and foxes. Rats will pull goose eggs, or young geese,
right out from under the feathers of the goose mother. A fox will go
miles to get a sitting goose.
When geese begin to
lay, say in February or March, if you are lucky enough to have a
broody hens then, you will have to splash eggs with water every day,
because a hen doesn’t know this part of goose mother’s duties.
Boiled
British Freshwater Fish Recipes
These can be cooked
using foraged greens or taken home and given the chief treatment.
Boiled Tench
Prepare the tench by
scaling, gutting, removing the gills then washing and patting dry.
Place in a large pan
then pour over just enough water to cover. Add 25g of salt per 1l of
water added then bring to a simmer, cover and cook gently for about
10 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through.
Transfer the tench to a
warmed serving plate and garnish with parsley. Accompany with melted
butter.
Boiled Trout
This is a traditional
British recipe for a classic dish of boiled trout that's filleted and
served topped with a truffle, garlic, vinegar, lemon juice and olive
oil. Ingredients: 2 medium trout, cleaned and scaled 2 summer
truffles 2 garlic cloves 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 2 tsp extra-virgin
olive oil juice of 1 lemon sea salt, to taste
Method
Bring a pan of
lightly-salted water to a boil. Add the trout and cook for about 20
minutes, or until done through. Remove the fish then take off all the
skin and fins.
Take the fish and
carefully remove the flesh as four fillets (discard all the bones).
Arrange these fillets on a serving plate. In the meantime, place the
truffles and garlic in a mortar and crush to a paste.
Add the vinegar and
lemon juice and mix thoroughly to combine. Place the oil in a pan,
add the truffle mixture and heat gently over a low flame (this should
be just heated through, do not allow the sauce to fry). Take off the
heat and season to taste. Pour the sauce over the fish and serve.
Feed the 5 thousand
A fish boil is a fun,
low-maintenance way to feed a large group of people -- and although
it is traditionally served outdoors, you can also bring the party
inside. Whether you're planning an outdoor picnic or a big family
get-together, a fish boil provides a nutritious, low-calorie meal for
the entire family.
Step 1
Fill a large pot about
three-quarters of the way up with water. Bring the water to a boil,
either on your stovetop or outside on an open fire.
Step 2
Add the potatoes and 1
pound of salt for every 10 people, and then bring the liquid back up
to a boil. Cook for 8 minutes, then add the onions to the pot.
Step 3
Add 2 pounds of peeled
baby carrots, if desired. Wait until the water comes back to a boil,
and then cook another 2 minutes. Double these cooking times for every
10 people you are serving.
Step 4
Add the whitefish and
cook for 14 minutes. Use an instant-read thermometer to test the
centre of the fish. If the fish reaches 145 degrees Fahrenheit in the
centre, it's done.
Step 5
Place
one piece of fish, three onions and two potatoes on each plate, then
add a pat of butter and spoon some of the broth over the fish. Serve
with a wedge of lemon if you have one.
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Air
Rifle Hunting
Hunting with air rifles
is challenging, demanding and, in the purest and best sense of the
word, entirely sporting.
A number of factors
combine to make a clean, humane and effective shot at a rabbit a lot
more than simply yanking on a trigger with hope in your heart,
though.
It’s true; pests form
the vast majority of legal and suitable air rifle quarry, but there’s
more to simply knowing what you can shoot when you are out in the
countryside.
Fair enough, something
defined as a pest doesn’t need much to qualify for a well-aimed
pellet, but no matter how lowly or nasty a creature might seem to be,
it still deserves a clean, quick and humane end with no suffering
involved.
You, as an air rifle
hunter, must behave with sportsmanship and with respect for your
quarry at all times, and because of its relatively short range, using
an air rifle will also make more demands of you than almost any other
type of sporting arm.
Field craft, the
ability to get close enough to your target to ensure an accurate and
humane shot, will test your abilities to the utmost. Quite often
you’ll be frustrated if a tiring stalk ends in failure, but you get
a real sense of achievement, and pride, when you do succeed.
There are one or two
unwritten rules of air rifle hunting which make it clear that some
species never qualify as legitimate or sporting quarry. All the game
birds, for instance, will frequently present easy targets, but don’t
be tempted because your permission to shoot will be very quickly
withdrawn if you are seen to be poaching!
Hares can become pests
but they are too large to be shot humanely with airgun pellets, and
that applies to foxes, too. There are plenty of sporting species that
qualify as air rifle quarry without any need to look any further.
Also as an air rifle
hunter, you must not only abide by the Country Code but uphold it too
and possibly gain brownie points from the landowner in the process. I
f you see some example
of the code being broken, like a dog worrying sheep, kids vandalising
farm buildings or machinery, a picnic fire that’s not been properly
extinguished, or simply rubbish left behind by thoughtless people do
something about it.
As a privileged and
authorised person which you are, since you’re out hunting on some
farmers land you owe it to him to help police his land, so even if
you can’t immediately do anything about a problem, report it as
soon as possible.
The farmers bush
telegraph soon spreads good news and bad, so showing that you’re
prepared to help will quickly become known and you’ll more than
likely be made welcome on other farms.
Even if you never see
another soul when you’re out hunting with your air rifle, there are
right and wrong ways to behave and more often than not someone will
be watching!
Open gates carefully
and ensure they shut behind you but don’t slam them this only
weakens the hinges.
If the gate should be
locked, climb over at the hinged end, not the latched end, because
your weight will have far less effect if you cross where the gate is
best supported, by the hinges.
If you have to cross a
barbed-wire or stock-mesh fence, push the wire down at the centre of
a run between two posts and, provided there’s enough slack for you
to cock one leg and then the other over, hop over.
If the fence is too
tight, climb as close as possible to a fence-post, but don’t force
the fence down and leave it sagging in the middle. Farm animals
escaping into crops or neighbouring land is a sure-fire way to lose
your shooting rights!
Whenever you cross from
one field to another, make sure your rifle is safe. If it has a
sling, which is best and safest whenever that’s possible, you can
leave it on your shoulder when opening and closing a gate.
But at all other times,
especially when you have to climb and need both hands to cross an
obstacle safely, make sure the rifle is unloaded and lay it down
parallel with the fence or gate, so that you can reach over or
through when on the other side, and retrieve it safely.
Resting the barrel on
the wire is dangerous because the rifle might slip and fall if the
fence wobbles as your weight is on it, and also because you might
walk past the barrel once you’ve crossed the fence.
Even though you know
the rifle is unloaded, never walk in front of a barrel that’s
pointing at you.
I was always taught the
“Horse always kicks” and the “Gun is always loaded” remember
this and you will not go far wrong.
When you fancy decoying
pigeons you’ll often need to build a hide but if you don’t take
hide-poles to support the net with you, ask the farmers permission
first before cutting any.
Don’t cut slow
growing hardwood sticks, such as ash, from close to where the hide is
to be built, choose quick-growing species like hazel.
Cut the poles with a
fine-tooth saw or secateurs, at a steep angle, which gives you a
point to make pushing them into the soil easier, and leaves behind a
stump from which buds will more quickly sprout.
Use side branches to
dress the hide netting to blend it in with the surroundings, and when
you pack up, tuck these branches into the base of the hedge and leave
the hide poles where you can find them next time, or take them with
you.
Leave the area as
you found it. That’s part of the Country Code too. LNT
When rabbit shooting,
it might seem to make sense to paunch the rabbits (taking out the
stomach and intestines) to make carrying them easier, but in fact
cleaning out rabbits that have cooled off for a few hours is much
easier than cutting open warm and floppy ones, and you won’t leave
piles of guts around to attract foxes.
Most large areas are
crossed by some form of path. As an authorised person, you must know
where they are and make every effort to ensure that anyone using such
paths is not in any way put at risk by any shots you might take.
What this means is that
the most sensible thing to do is keep well away from footpaths,
tracks, rights of way and bridleways, and public roads.
All responsible air
rifle hunters must know the laws on hunting and as well as shooting
safely.
This means you should
be able to recognise your quarry and whether it is legal to shoot it
or not. As long as you have permission to be on the land or property
where you are shooting, you may legally shoot the following species:
GREY SQUIRREL
Common and destructive pest, especially damages trees. Has displaced
the native, protected, Red squirrel in many parts of the UK.
CARRION CROW
Major predator on game and songbirds, eggs and chicks, will also peck
eyes from new born lambs. It is very wary and difficult to stalk.
FERAL PIGEON
Cheeky chappie town scrounger actually carries a variety of nasty
diseases. Creates mess and damages buildings. Do Not Eat
COLLARED DOVE
Same size as protected Turtle dove but Collared variety can steal and
soil large quantities of stored grain in farmyards. Needs
controlling.
ROOK Although
officially a pest and predator, at certain times of the year they can
be beneficial to agriculture, eating harmful insect pests.
WOODPIGEON Vast
flocks hoover-up crops in all parts of the UK. They are the most
destructive pest in constant need of control and very good to eat.
(E)
RABBIT Back in
plague numbers in many areas, the rabbit is as destructive and greedy
as the woodie and in need of continuous control.
RAT Public enemy
number 1. They cause untold millions of pounds worth of damage
worldwide plus carrier of several highly dangerous diseases.
MAGPIE One of
the most voracious and destructive predatory pests, hitting young
broods of garden songbirds in particular.
There are other birds,
like jays and jackdaws which are defined as pests, but don’t as a
rule pose the same threat as those listed above.
Greater and lesser
black-backed gulls and herring gulls, although also on the list, are
too big or because of habitat not to be considered as suitable air
rifle quarry.
All birds, except the
named pest species, are legally protected. Even pests may only be
shot by authorised persons defined as the landowner, or one who has
permission to shoot on the land where the quarry is present.
The Wildlife and
Countryside Act, which governs avian pest species control, requires
that a shooter must be sure that the quarry was causing or about to
cause damage at the time it was shot.
By definition a pest is
a species whose numbers, appetite and destructive nature result in
damage to food crops etc. so the need to control their numbers is
obvious.
Using an air rifle to
hunt at night, together with hand-held or scope mounted lamps,
red-dot sights or modern Night Vision devices, is exciting.
Both rabbit and rat
numbers have surged over recent years so, with permission, of course,
there’s plenty of pest control available.
Hunting lamps,
hand-held or scope mounted, are all you need for lamping success that
and a bit of common sense.
The power source can be
integral using re-chargeable batteries, or via a coiled flex to a 6v
or 12v battery slung from a belt or your shoulder. Cordless lamps are
more compact and simple but they are also heavier than flex types and
you should remember this when making your mind up.
Hand-held types are not
so easy to hold out at arm’s length for very long, but smaller
models with stock-mounted power-packs are worth trying.
Reflector sizes vary
from an inch or so to over a foot but air rifle models are mostly of
the smaller variety, between 2in and 6in - which send the beam from a
krypton or halogen bulb lancing out into the night to pick up the
gleam from your quarry’s eyes.
Most lamps have a
trigger-switch, which you can pull with one finger and on some you
can also lock the trigger on, so your finger doesn’t tire with the
strain of keeping the switch down.
All hunting lamps
should be used sparingly. Just a quick flash round with the beam to
pick out the targets, close the range down with a silent approach,
pinpoint the rabbit in the light and take the shot.
This method will save
your battery, increase the time you can be out, and help to gain a
bigger bag by not disturbing other potential targets.
Any risk, no matter how
slight, involved in your intended shot must mean giving up the stalk
and simply trying somewhere else on the shoot. You must also be aware
that it is illegal to shoot within 15 metres of the centre of any
road, track, path or right of way.
The Country Code,
mostly unwritten and defined over many centuries, has fundamentally
changed recently, due to the Right to Roam. The Countryside and
Rights of Way Act 2000 (CRoW) allows the general public access to far
larger areas of the countryside than ever before but not unlimited
access.
Large expanses of
moorland, heathland, down land and mountain areas are now open but
the act does not allow unlimited public access on private land,
except via the many footpaths and bridleways that already exist.
Ordnance Survey maps of
the British Isles include a key which defines the difference between
county and parish boundaries, bridleways, tracks and paths with
public footpaths and rights of way represented by red dotted lines
and the word PATH or FP.
Road access points are
indicated by signposts and the latest legislation has brought in
another sign which indicates access to suitably designated areas.
Footpaths are also a
standard width, 3 feet, which is wide enough for two people to pass
without bumping into one another. But whatever the status of a path
that crosses your shoot, the best advice is to avoid them whenever
you can, and certainly when you are aware that there’s anyone using
them.
As an air rifle hunter,
respect for the countryside includes having the same sort of respect
for yourself, and your sport.
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the gonads, can you walk the walk, dare you, I dear you to buy some
buggrub and then eat it, go on I dare you. Peter’s website is
www.buggrub.com
Catapult
Hunting and UK Law
It is completely legal
to shoot rabbits with a catapult with the intention to kill. So if
you are looking for dinner you can use a catapult, it is legal.
However you must:
a. Have permission from
the landowner to do so first!
b. Be proficient enough
to be able to kill, and must use suitable projectiles to ensure this!
For example steel ball bearings.
c. Intend to kill.
It is also important to
note: The Wild Mammals Protection Act 1996 which makes it an offence
to injure, maim, beat with sticks, torment, burn, wild animals etc. .
In other words not to
kill but merely to cause suffering. Therefore if you are seen
shooting at a rabbit time and time again without killing or stunning
the rabbit only hitting it, this could be seen as contrary to this
act, and would need to answer for it, possibly in court.
Therefore power,
accuracy, using adequate and suitable projectiles, and at a range
whereby an accurate shot will kill, is vital to be and be seen to be
within the law.
Anyone hunt with a
catapult?
When I was younger I
used to make my own catapults and hunt rats, squirrels and pheasants
with steel bearings.
SIMPLE CATAPULT
PLINKING:
Use an old cardboard
box, full of crumpled papers such as computer paper, newspaper etc.,
and take a couple of drawing pins, staples or tape etc. and fasten a
target on the box - and shoot away. At the end of the session, you
can take out the papers and shake them lightly, recovering your ammo
- for your next volley.
Be sure to try various
distances, and various sizes of ammo, and varying weights - practice
as much as you can before actually going out hunting.
I usually like a bull’s
eye of about two inches square, with the target placed about 10 feet
away to start, and then extend my distance out to twenty five yards.
SIMPLE CATAPULT
HUNTING:
Firstly, be ethical,
and practice at home with your catapult before venturing out in to
the field to hunt for rabbits, grouse, pheasants, pigeons, squirrels
etc. We want good clean killing shots. As well, be ethical, and take
only shots at close range, learn how to hunt various animals, so that
you get very close to them before taking your shot.
Nearly any 'small game'
can be shot and killed effectively at close range with a catapult,
but rabbits & pheasants are likely the easiest because they often
‘stand still’ and will allow a catapult hunter to get within
several feet allowing for an excellent shot.
Often these animals
will hold tight for a second and even a third shot if need be. Your
adrenaline will be surging - and you will experience 'buck fever' so
- beforehand - practice, practice, practice!
Get as close as you can
to your quarry, and by using the same catapult draw technique that
you use for target shooting, but with the heavier hunting ammo, draw
back, taking aim at the head of your target/quarry, and let fly!
Pigeons, especially in
barns can also be great sport, in that one usually has an excellent
shooting opportunity, and you won't put holes in the roof, either.
Most farm folk don't like pigeons in their barn: pigeons are carriers
of much disease!
Small glass marbles
(like you played marbles with, as a kid!) work well for this
plinking, and is a cheap source of ammo that is obtainable by all. I
don't recommend using them for hunting purposes.
Eating
Crows and Some Recipes
I think most people
have a natural prejudice that has prevented most crow hunters from
even considering this bird as wild game.
My experience is that
the mere mention of dropping these birds on the menu brings a series
of comments from my mates as if I had just suggested stir frying up a
batch of common sewer rats.
And if you ever make
the mistake of sharing these thoughts with a non-hunter, be prepared
for the same reaction. This is a shame since, properly prepared, the
members of the Corvid family are as tasty as most other game birds
and even tastier than some.
Besides, with crow
populations as high as they are, what an untapped resource we have at
our disposal.
Historically, crows, as
well as other non-songbird species have been common fare. Remember
"four and twenty blackbirds baked in a pie"? Our revulsion
seems to centre around the fact that the crow and its close relatives
are scavengers and therefore unfit to eat.
Well, as far as pigs
and chickens are concerned, you just wouldn't believe what these
supermarket critters will stick in their mouths.
Seafood? You honestly
don't want to know what goes into a some shellfish before it ends up
on that expensive seafood platter. I suppose the same goes for
lobsters. The list goes on.
In short, it's really
just our cultural prejudice that limits our possibilities. You know,
maybe crow meat just needs some clever marketing terminology. Look
what they did for Sweet Breads and Escargot...
Field Preparation
It will come as little
surprise to anyone that even the biggest crow doesn't make much of a
meal. However, the fact that it is often possible to take large
numbers at a time can compensate for this.
Since a morning shoot
can easily net from 10 to 100 birds, you want to limit the amount of
time necessary to clean each bird. Put out of your head any idea of
plucking a crow like you would a goose or duck.
Besides the breast
meat, there just isn't enough edible meat on a crow to make it
worthwhile. Using the technique described below, you can extract the
best meat of a crow within a minute or two with very little mess.
Lay the crow on its
back in front of you with its head pointed to the right.
Take a finger and
locate where the breast bone meets the upper abdomen.
With a sharp knife,
make a cut across the crow (wing to wing) below the breast bone.
Don't be concerned about cutting too deep, no edible meat will be
damaged with this cut.
Holding the birds feet
with your left hand, place 2 or 3 fingers under the skin where the
cut was made and pull in opposite directions. The skinless breast
meat should now be exposed.
Take the knife again
and separate each breast half away from the bone starting in the
middle and working outward. You should end up with 2 lime sized
pieces of crow breast. Discard the remains properly.
The meat can now be
frozen, marinated or freshly prepared.
Recipes
Below are some recipes.
Feel free to try these or to experiment with your own creation. There
is no reason why any recipe for dove, quail or grouse to be found in
a wild game cookbook would not work just as well.
Then you can decide
whether to tell your guests what went into the recipe before or after
they have finished. Bon Appetite!!
Pre-Cooking
Preparation
Preparation
You can use this method
with crows, coots, diver ducks and just about any fowl that may have
a strong flavour.
Use as many breasts as
you decide to grill and soak them from 2 hours to overnight in salt
water then thoroughly rinse and dry the breasts.
Then use your favourite
brand of Italian dressing and put enough to coat the bottom of a
container you can put a lid on and put a layer of breasts, a layer of
dressing, and keep layering till all the breasts are in the
container. Finally, top off with dressing and put in fridge
overnight. The next day they will be tender and tasty.
Summer Crow Layers
Ingredients
16 pieces of crow
breast meat (no bones) (8 crows)
16 pieces of green
pepper
16 cherry tomatoes
8 button mushrooms
8 ears of sweet corn
1 1/2 cups of Teriyaki
sauce
1/2 cup melted butter
8 kabob skewers
Preparation
Cut each piece of crow
in half and place in a covered bowl with the Teriyaki sauce over
night. Clean and cut each ear of corn into 3 pieces. Cook in boiling
salt water for 10 minutes.
Alternately put corn (3
pieces), green peppers (3 pieces) and cherry tomatoes (3) along with
4 pieces of crow meat on each skewer. Use 1 mushroom to top each
skewer. Brush with melted butter and place on preheated grill for
about 4 minutes. Flip, butter again and place back on grill for
another 4 minutes. Repeat one last time for a total of 12 minutes or
until they appear done. Serves four adults.
Country "C"
Medallions
Ingredients
24 pieces of crow
breast meat (no bones) (12 crows)
2 medium onions
(chopped)
6 tblsp of oil
5 slices of bacon
(chopped)
1 big or 2 small
turnips (peeled & chopped)
1/3 of celery root
(peeled & chopped) - note: substitute with celery
3 tblsp wet mustard
1 tblsp lemon juice
salt, pepper to taste
dash of paprika
2 bay leaves
2 juniper berries -
note: substitute with allspice
1 tblsp Majorjam
(crushed)
1 heaping tblsp of
mayonnaise
water
Preparation
Sauté onions and bacon
in oil until golden. Add meat, spices and sauté some more. Add
vegetables and the rest of the ingredients except mayonnaise. Add
enough water to keep the meat almost covered. Cook in a slow cooker
on medium
In about 3 hours you
will see that the meat is soft enough to cut with a fork. Take the
meat out and place on heated platter or dish to keep warm. Remove the
bay leaf and put all the gravy (about 2 cups) in a blender and blend.
When thoroughly blended, add mayonnaise and blend shortly.
Add gravy to meat and
serve over rice with a winter salad. Serves four adults.
Pan Fried Crow
Ingredients
2 eggs
seasoned bread crumbs
or flour
oil or bacon grease
Preparation
Remove breast meat from
as many crows as desired. Beat with meat mallet (for tenderizing).
Dip the pieces in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs or flour. Fry
in oil in hot skillet.
Nigel at
www.hunters-knives.co.uk
has offered you dear listener 10% on all his products simply by using
the code PREP10.
Escape/Travel
Belt Review
|
With
the introduction of the new Escape/Travel Belt, both the operative
and the regular traveler just gained a lot of options.
Whether
you travel in the world's most hostile regions or just pursue your
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situation suddenly turns south.
This innovative new belt is designed to be discreet and look ordinary. It's made of 1.5" webbing, so it doesn't look too tactical or military and will fit through standard size belt loops. But its ordinary looks conceal some very un-ordinary features. The Escape/Travel Belt's unique buckle conceals and securely holds a non-metallic Handcuff Key and a Ceramic Razor Blade (both are included).
The
versatile design of the belt's interior provides dozens of access
points to its many discreet elasticized compartments, which are
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The
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handcuff key (with a lanyard for easy removal) and 4.5 feet of
Kevlar®
Survival Cord.
The entire belt - even with all of the included tools - is
completely non-metallic.
Available in 3 sizes: Medium (28" - 30"), Large (32" - 42"), XL (44" - 52"). Color: black. Made in USA.
I
have put these extra items into the belt because not only do I
consider that I will need them but also because they are also
non-metallic.
10 Cable ties
2x
10's of Biox Aqua Tablets
2x
Folded zip-lock bags
2x
£10 notes
Bag
of my everyday OTC medicines
4x
co co codamol pain Tablets
It
is now what I consider to be complete, however as with all kit
things will be replaced and or removed as I finely hone it to work
best for me. Please remember that your belt will be filled with
what you decide you need with you and that is the way it should
be.I really love it because of the items carried secretly within
in and being non-metalic I can even take it on holiday with me and
that too fills me with a greater level of confidence that should
something go wrong I have the means to help me out of a stick
situation.
I
also like the fact that not one of my friend even noticed that
this belt was any different to any other that I or they had worn.
In fact I had to mention the belt before they said so what, it is
just a belt. Their comments changed when I showed them what was
hidden in the belt and all of thought that it was a cool must
have.
Far
be it for me to disagree with them. The belt also preformed very
well when I took it into the shower with me and soon dried out
later with no shrinkage or loss of structure at all.
Yes
if you want an all round basic/normal belt with a covert capacity
then this is the one for you.
You
can order yours at
http://www.shomer-tec.com/product/escapetravel-belt-1582.cfm
|
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customer then register on the 20th of this month for a
FREE “Power Bar”, EE are giving all customers a free mobile
charger and when you use it take it back to one of their shops and
they will replace it as many times as you like completely free of
charge. Just the thing when you battery is low.
