Show Notes
I begin this week
with THE WILDERNESS GATHERING 2014 14th
to the 17th August, Blizzard Survivals 20% Discount Offer, Support These
Companies, Ribzwear 30% Discount Offer, Carjacking, Wilderness121’s 10%
discount, Terrorist Bio Weapon Threat, Field Leisure’s 10% Discount Offer, How
to Plan your Bug-Out, Buggrubs 10% Discount Offer, More companies to Support, A
Disgraceful Waste Full UK, Poaching is Not what it used to Be, What I Think
makes the best survival knife? Stealth Camping, Signalling for Help, The Ryan
Stolp Interview.
Have you booked your ticket for the Wilderness Gathering?
You can get full details at www.wildernessgathering.co.uk or call 0845 8387062
THE WILDERNESS
GATHERING 2014 14th to the 17th August
The Wilderness
Gathering has over the years become a firm date in the diaries of those who
enjoy bushcraft, nature and wilderness survival skills. The previous ten years
have seen this event grow from a small event in one field with some traders and
schools sharing bushcraft skills and knowledge to a festival of wilderness
living skills encompassing bushcraft/survival and woodland crafts.
The show has grown into an event with something for all the family with stories and music by the campfire in the evenings and skills workshops and activities throughout the three whole days of the festival.
The Wilderness Gathering has without a doubt become the premier family event for all those interested in bush crafts and the great outdoors.
The show has bushcraft clubs for all age groups of children to get involved in plus more activities for all including den building and wilderness skills classes for all.
There are hands on demonstrations of game preparation, knife sharpening, basha boat building, bow making, greenwood working, archery and axe throwing and primitive fire lighting to name just a few. There are talks on survival phycology, classes on falconry and wilderness survival fishing. All of these skills are there for everybody and anybody to participate in.
You can probably pick up information on nearly all the skills needed to live in the wilderness and prosper at The Wilderness Gathering.
There is a wealth of good quality trade stands that are carefully selected to be in theme for the show selling everything from custom knives to tipis and outdoor clothing to primitive tools. The organisers have even laid on a free service bring and buy stall where you can bring along your used and unwanted kit and they’ll sell it for you.
There are local scout and explorer group’s onsite promoting the World Wide Scouting Movement as well helping out with some of the classes and site logistics.
The catering is within the theme of the event with venison and game featuring on the menus plus organic cakes and drinks. The woodland and open field camping facilities (with hot showers) giving you the option to visit for the whole weekend or just to attend as a day visitor.
Check out www.wildernessgathering.co.uk or call 0845 8387062 you really won’t regret it.
The show has grown into an event with something for all the family with stories and music by the campfire in the evenings and skills workshops and activities throughout the three whole days of the festival.
The Wilderness Gathering has without a doubt become the premier family event for all those interested in bush crafts and the great outdoors.
The show has bushcraft clubs for all age groups of children to get involved in plus more activities for all including den building and wilderness skills classes for all.
There are hands on demonstrations of game preparation, knife sharpening, basha boat building, bow making, greenwood working, archery and axe throwing and primitive fire lighting to name just a few. There are talks on survival phycology, classes on falconry and wilderness survival fishing. All of these skills are there for everybody and anybody to participate in.
You can probably pick up information on nearly all the skills needed to live in the wilderness and prosper at The Wilderness Gathering.
There is a wealth of good quality trade stands that are carefully selected to be in theme for the show selling everything from custom knives to tipis and outdoor clothing to primitive tools. The organisers have even laid on a free service bring and buy stall where you can bring along your used and unwanted kit and they’ll sell it for you.
There are local scout and explorer group’s onsite promoting the World Wide Scouting Movement as well helping out with some of the classes and site logistics.
The catering is within the theme of the event with venison and game featuring on the menus plus organic cakes and drinks. The woodland and open field camping facilities (with hot showers) giving you the option to visit for the whole weekend or just to attend as a day visitor.
Check out www.wildernessgathering.co.uk or call 0845 8387062 you really won’t regret it.
Blizzard Survival 20% Discount Offer
Blizzard Survival .com have a fantastic offer for you the
listener they are offering a 20%
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Life-saving technology has never been so affordable.
All you have to do to get a 20% discount is enter the code
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If you are looking
for some new kit then please Support these Companies
The following
companies have supported this station and I will support them they are:
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For I-shields UV Protection
For top quality 550 Paracord
For Survival Knives and Survival Kits
For the Nano Striker fire starter
For tasty MX3 Meals
The Lifesaver bottle
For the Knot Bone Lacelock
For the Wild and Edible Nutrition E Book
Browning Night Seeker Cap Light RGB
Multi lite Multi-tool
For the Ghillie Kettle
For the Blackbird SK-5 or his handmade leather sheaths http://www.hedgehogleatherworks.com
For the Farside Outdoor Meals
The Survivor knife
For the Chris Caine companion survival tool
Day Ration Pack
Vango Storm Shelter 400
myFC PowerTrekk
It runs on water, it really does
The Paper Shower
The Life Straw
Purinize is a 100% all-natural solution of concentrated
mineral salts and purified water.
Is a solar powered
phone charger really useful in the UK?
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usb, PC, Car usb and in addition, Solar
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Any direct sunlight
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Get more charges per
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30% DISCOUNT FROM RIBZ
A front pack is a pack or bag that allows for access of
equipment from the persons chest. Front packs first and foremost allow for easy
access of gear without the removal of any equipment.
In many adventure outdoor activities it can be critical to
the sport to have the ability to reach essential gear fast without the removal
of a backpack. Simplicity is the foremost purpose of the front pack but there
are many additional benefits as well.
Backpacking is a sport where in many situations it is
critical to both minimize and maximize the contents of your load for a longer
or lighter duration of stay. The ability to move small amounts of weight to the
frontal region significantly reduces overall stress on a person’s shoulders and
back.
In all there are unlimited uses for the front pack. Front
packs are the best compliment to any outdoorsman’s gear when accessibility,
functionality, mobility and simplicity are required. From horseback riding,
long distance biking, motorcycling and kayaking.
All sports where fast and easy access of gear is essential,
a front pack is your best solution and as you can imagine it is going down a
storm within the prepping and survivalist community.
Here's your code for 30% off all RIBZ
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and can be used in the coupon section within the Store.
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Carjacking
Recent years have seen a sharp fall in the levels of car
crime in Britain. Manufacturers have made great strides in introducing new
security measures to their vehicles, with the result that it is now very
difficult to steal a modern car without being in possession of the keys.
While this is all welcome news, it does have a downside -
and the downside is that thieves now have a greater incentive to get the keys
than they ever did before. Of course, the easiest way to do this is to take
them from the car's owner directly: carjacking. Concerns about car-jacking have
grown even amid falling rates of car crime generally.
So what is carjacking? And what can you do to protect
yourself against it?
Carjacking is stealing a car while its owner is present.
This can be done using threats or violence to secure the car keys from the
car's owner or, in some cases, opportunistically taking advantage of the driver
having left the keys in the vehicle while popping off somewhere temporarily.
A broad definition of the term car-jacking would also
include the phenomenon of thieves breaking into a person's house just to steal
the car keys. Police estimate that 8% of all burglaries in Britain are
undertaken for this reason. Altogether, there were over 11,000 cases of
car-jacking recorded in Britain last year.
Carjacking - The Risks
Organised car-jacking gangs are known to operate in London,
and drivers in the South-East are known to be particularly at risk, because the
prevalence of high-value vehicles in the region makes it attractive to thieves.
Cars stolen in this way will typically end up on the streets of Eastern Europe
or Africa, being shipped out for resale very quickly through established
criminal networks.
High-value cars are obviously at greater risk than old
bangers, but even if you're not driving the latest top-of-the-range model,
you're still at risk. Resale isn't always the goal of the carjackers. Sometimes
they intend to use the car in the commission of another crime; and sometimes
the thieves are youths who just want to joyride.
Would-be carjackers will often use tricks to lure drivers
from their vehicles. One ploy involves a pair of carjackers in a car to
arranging a light collision with another car. When the driver comes out to look
at the damage, one of the thieves will enter the car quickly and make off.
Another ruse is to place some light obstruction like a cone
in the path of the vehicle. When the driver emerges to clear it, the carjackers
will strike.
Carjacking - Protecting Yourself
So what can you do to protect yourself from car-jacking? One
option is to have a tracker system fitted to your vehicle. These allow your car
to be located wherever it is taken. Typically, you could expect to pay several
hundred pounds for the installation of the device, and a further service charge
of around £10-30 monthly to a firm which operates the tracking service.
You do not need to go to vast expense to limit the threat
you face from car-jacking, though. Many of the most effective measures you can
take come from simply being aware of the problem, and applying common sense to
your situation.
If you're involved in an accident with another car which
seems suspicious or contrived to you, don't get out. Lock your doors, drive to
the nearest police station, and tell them what happened.
Don't leave your keys in the car when you pop out to a shop
or garage. In most cases, your insurance will not cover the theft of your
vehicle in these circumstances.
If there are multiple lanes, and you're going to be stopped
at a junction or traffic lights, move your car into the lane away from the
pavement, making it harder for anyone to get to you.
While driving in urban areas, keep your doors locked and
your windows rolled up.
When inside the house, don't leave your car keys somewhere
that's easily visible or accessible from outside doors or windows.
Be wary when a stranger attempts to flag you down,
especially in isolated locales.
Carjacking is a frightening reality in Britain today. Being
aware of the danger, however, and applying a number of common-sense measures
consistently, can limit the threat it poses to you and your family.
Wilderness121’s 10% discount
The new supplier of Purificup to the UK is Wilderness121 and
they really mean business, having spoken to the director Rob Williams he has
agreed to offer you dear listener a 10% discount just by putting the letters
UKPRN into the code box it is that simple.
Now pop along to www.wilderness121.co.uk
and check out their great range of survival related products.
Terrorist Bio Weapon Threat
One thing that certainly has people on edge throughout this
War on Terror is the worry that some extremist group will plague parts of the
world with a deadly, and possibly contagious, biotoxin. Fears of bio-terror
are growing around the world.
The fear briefly became reality in the U.S. after 9/11, as
man-made anthrax spores were found in letters and in east coast post offices on
a number of occasions.
Mysteriously, the attacks ended almost as quickly as they
had begun. But they were so frightening to many U.S. citizens that a new term
-- bioterror -- was soon burned into the American consciousness.
Those attacks also showed the panic and very real danger
posed by the release of such toxins on an unsuspecting public.
Many people now wonder how they can protect themselves from
a release of a potentially deadly biotoxin, bacteria, or virus. I therefore
think you should become familiar with the early symptoms of things like
anthrax, and report any suspicious letters or packages to the police.
While people clearly need to worry about exposures to
various chemical and biological agents during these trying times, the mail
attacks right after 9/11 quickly put anthrax front-and-centre in the minds of
many people.
In a way, that early emphasis on the perils of anthrax
exposure may have actually aided the West in its fight against a bioterrorist
attack. Bioterror experts say that the symptoms of an anthrax exposure are the
easiest to deal with as long as one is treated soon after exposure.
The flu-like symptoms may persist for as long as three days
before becoming worse; although once the severe stage sets in, death can occur
in as little as two hours or up to two days.
Death Can Happen Fast
There is no known cure once the anthrax infection becomes
severe.
That problem showed governments everywhere the necessity of
a rapid response to a bioterror attack, since a large segment of a nation's
population may die if those with the infection are not quickly and properly
treated.
What Is Anthrax?
One thing to note is that bioterror experts actually know
very little about anthrax -- which is the real reason for their overall silence
on the subject.
After all, anthrax is something little-seen this day and age
in the West, and our knowledge of it is spotty at best. This is not to suggest
that the experts know nothing about its symptoms; they simply are not as
certain about anthrax as they are about smallpox, for example.
Gas mask may be useless
"Purchasing a gas mask and having that around
increases, if you will, the terror associated with these incidents and brings
it home in a way that is unnecessary because you would never know when to put
that gas mask on.
Anthrax spores can enter the body through a cut or abrasion,
or it can be inhaled. They are usually in the form of a fine white or brownish,
grainy powder.
The cutaneous form of anthrax is contracted through the
skin, via a cut or abrasion. Three to five days after infection, a painless
blister appears. A day or two later, this becomes a black, open sore. Cutaneous
anthrax accounts for 95 percent of anthrax cases in the United States, and is
easily treated with antibiotics.
But left untreated, perhaps 5 percent of cases progress to a
dangerous bloodstream infection, which is almost always fatal.
The inhaled form of anthrax incorporates the same germ as
the cutaneous form; however, inhaled anthrax is both rare and extremely deadly.
Studies of previous cases indicate that a dose of just 2,500 to 55,000 anthrax
spores is lethal to about half of the people who inhale them.
The first stage of inhaled anthrax infection, lasting from
hours to a few days, involves flu-like symptoms, including fever, coughing,
weakness and chest pains. Only at this stage can inhaled anthrax be treated
with antibiotics.
The second stage usually ends in death within days. Lung
damage deprives the body of oxygen. The victim then goes into shock. Brain
infection may also occur. Antibiotics only prove helpful at the earliest stages
of the disease because they fight bacteria, not the toxins the bacteria produce
in abundance during the final stage of infection.
Antibiotic Warning
Three types of antibiotics are approved for preventing and
treating anthrax in its early stages: ciprofloxacin, tetracyclines and
penicillins. People who have been exposed to the germ but do not have symptoms
are given an antibiotic for 60 days to reduce the risk of developing the
disease.
What people should not do, health officials say, is demand
antibiotics from their doctors. The reason is simple: "If these drugs are
used inappropriately, the organism is going to develop resistance to them. The
worst thing you can do is contribute to these organisms becoming resistant.
People are advised not to hoard anthrax antibiotics, A more
reliable form of protection, many say, is to simply keep an eye on unusual
letters or packages arriving in the mail.
Examine Packages
Besides the tell-tale fine white or brownish, grainy powder
on or in a piece of mail, the FBI says several things can tip you off about a
questionable letter or package:
Misspelled words or wrong titles on the label;
Having been sent from an unknown person in a foreign
country;
Having excessive postage or no return address;
Restrictive markings such as "personal";
Oily stains, discolorations or crystallization on the packaging.
If you receive an envelope and there's a powder inside, set
it down carefully, don't move it or give it to anyone else, quickly wash your
hands with soap and water and call 999.
The good news is that most probably won't have to worry
about such a threat: most of those actually targeted in the anthrax attacks,
after all, were public officials and journalists. Experts therefore say there
is very little reason to suspect you've been exposed unless there has been a
specific incident where you live or work.
It's just not a big enough threat for most people to be
worrying about," said Dr. Henry Rosen, a professor of medicine and expert
in infectious diseases at the University of Washington in Seattle.
It's a threat that has been tremendously exaggerated. How
often do you worry about things that effect two or three people in 300 million?
he said.
Perhaps we should be more concerned about the ill effects of
constantly living in fear of bioterrorism. The health effect from the anxiety
of this is probably bigger than the overall threat from [such things as]
anthrax.
The Top Peril: Smallpox
But as health authorities gear up to deal with the potential
threat posed by anthrax, an even bigger effort is focusing on what many
consider the top bioterror peril: smallpox. Smallpox and anthrax lead the list
of potential biological weapons capable of devastating civilian populations,
along with plague, botulism and hemorrhagic fever.
Experts say smallpox would be a very effective bioweapon,
both because it kills 30 percent of its victims and it has a long incubation
period. It may take up to two weeks for symptoms to appear; but after that
time, the victim may develop high fever, malaise, headache and backache.
Two days after symptoms start, a rash of pus-filled boils
develops, spreading all over the body. Smallpox is easily spread, and there is
no known treatment for one who has contracted the disease.
For century’s smallpox was a worldwide terror, one spread
through coughing, sneezing or physical contact -- even by handling the bedding
of the afflicted.
But thanks to a global vaccination effort begun by the old
Soviet Union, by the late 1970s the virus' had been contained to a few tightly
controlled laboratories in Russia and the United States.
That's indeed something for the Reds to be proud of; yet we
shouldn't pat the old Soviets on the back just yet. There are rumours in U.S.
intelligence circles that the Russians, along with Iraqis and North Koreans,
have held onto undisclosed stores of smallpox for weapons purposes.
Russia is said to have large stockpiles of smallpox for
bioweapons
Defector Ken Alibek has acknowledged that the Soviets built
up large stockpiles of smallpox in the 1980s for use in bioweapons, and
terrorism experts worry that virus samples could somehow find their way into
terrorist hands.
The West at risk of smallpox attack
So how are we protected? Most government health authorities
stopped recommending routine vaccinations for smallpox in 1971. Even those
immunized before that time are unlikely to still be protected. We are all
sitting ducks.
And that, dear friends, is what makes smallpox so very
dangerous.
But don't head for the hills just yet. There are arguments
against smallpox being used as an instrument of bioterror.
Remember, unlike anthrax, the human smallpox virus was
virtually eradicated in the late 1970s, and the only known stores are in Russia
and the U.S. Both countries have sworn to a war against terrorist activity
after the events of 9/11. All of this would presumably make it far more
difficult for an extremist person or group to obtain smallpox for bioterror
purposes.
Smallpox is highly contagious, and is much more dangerous
than anthrax
Samuel Watson, co-director of the BioMedical Security
Institute at the University of Pittsburgh Graduate School of Public Health,
reluctantly told MSNBC in late 2001 that the anthrax cases after 9/11 could
have an effect on the whole bioterror debate, and especially over smallpox
concerns.
"If this thing in Florida with the anthrax turns out to
be a strain that the Soviets had, or if it turns out to be a strain that the
Iraqis had, or Iran or North Korea, or if we had it only in a (Centers for
Disease Control and Prevention) lab -- if that turns out to be the case, then I
think we need to be worried about smallpox," he said.
You see the main danger is that a smallpox attack wouldn't
require the highly technical dispersal mechanisms that terrorists need to spark
a widespread anthrax outbreak.
With smallpox, you don't need any of that, you just need
infected people ... the biological equivalent of a suicide bomber.
What a lovely world we live in.
Now thanks to the Managing Director Paul listeners visiting Field Leisure - The
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How to Plan your Bug-Out
To work out how much fuel will cost on the journey you will
first need to map out your route with a service such as Google Maps or RAC/AA
route planner.
Divide this number by how many miles your car gets per
gallon, which will give you the amount of gallons of fuel needed for the trip.
Multiply that number by the current price of fuel.
Step 2
Now calculate the price of any road tolls on your route.
There are very few roads with tolls but it would still be a cost to add it.
Step 3
Estimate the price of food and any other personal items you
may need on the trip. Make sure you include both meals and snacks. This cost
will vary significantly depending on where you decide to eat.
Before you leave, if you want to more closely calculate your
costs, it may be better to decide the type of restaurants in which you'd like
to eat.
Step 4
Find hotels or motels along your trip for a longer journey.
You need your sleep for the energy to drive long distances. Motels will usually
be cheaper and are sometimes closer to the motorway. You can find the price
online.
Step 5
Add these expenses together. This will give you the
estimated total cost of driving on a trip. Add in a cushion just in case
anything goes wrong.
Peter at buggrub
is not only sponsoring the competition on my website he is also offering a 10%
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walk, dare you, I dear you to buy some buggrub and then eat it, go on I dare
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Here are some more
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The Survival Slingshot
A Disgraceful Waste Full UK
Quarter of the food binned each year has not even been
opened: Buy one get one free offers and decline of home cooking blamed for
'staggering' figure
Britons throw away 7million tons of food waste every year
One million tons of the food waste are untouched items
Buy one get one free' and decline of cooking skills to
blame
Households are throwing away a million tons of untouched
food each year, figures show.
This means around one quarter of our ‘avoidable’ food waste
has not even been opened after it was bought.
Confusion over best-before labelling, ‘buy one get one free’
supermarket offers and the decline of basic cooking skills are all blamed for
the ‘quite staggering’ figures from the Government’s waste advisory body.
Experts also warn that we are victims of a culture in which
we feel we haven’t provided properly for our family unless they leave some food
on their plate.
The figures, compiled by the Waste and Resources Action
Programme (Wrap) from two studies involving almost 3,000 households around the
UK, show that Britons throw away 7million tons of food waste a year.
I say that is vile, sick, and something must be done to
reduce the amount of good food wasted.
While some of this, such as bones, shells and tea bags, is
unavoidable, some 4.2million tons is ‘avoidable waste’ – food that could have
been eaten. This is enough to provide six meals a week for the average family –
and save them £700 a year.
Shockingly, a quarter of this needless waste is thrown away
whole or in unopened packaging.
Potatoes make up almost a quarter of this untouched food
waste, with some 230,000 tons going straight in the bin.
So what causes people to act in this way, well I think that
offers in supermarkets such as 'buy one get one free' and a decline of cooking
skills are behind the rising food waste mountain
Salads in unopened bags and other fresh vegetables account
for 260,000 tons and unwrapped and whole fresh fruit some 240,000 tons.
Some 10,000 tons of apples, 46,000 tons of carrots and one
in every ten bananas are thrown away untouched.
The research also shows that more than 60 per cent of the
tomatoes and mushrooms that are binned are still whole. The report comes after
a study by the Institution of Mechanical Engineers last year concluded that up
to half of the food we buy from supermarkets goes in the bin.
Experts at the institution said that with the shift away
from small shops to large-scale supermarkets, we have lost the sense of value
of food.
And just last month, several EU countries blamed confusion
over best-before dates for millions of tons of food waste a year.
Unlike use-by dates, which are used to denote the safety of
meat and other foods that spoil quickly, best-before dates are usually just a
mark of food quality such as flavour and texture.
I also think that we are victims of a culture in which we
feel we haven't provided properly for our family unless they leave some food on
their plate
But it means that dried pasta, flour, tinned goods and
other products with a long shelf life are being binned unnecessarily. Wrap
found that almost half of the 4.2million tons of avoidable waste was binned
because it was ‘not used in time’.
Other reasons given for binning food include people cooking
too much.
These days I am always amazed at how people struggle to turn
leftovers into a meal, when back in the forties that practice was common place.
The supermarkets ‘buy one, get one free’ offers are also to
blame as I think that they tempt shoppers into buying more than they need.
BREAK
You are listening to
the UK preppers Radio network on KPRNDB-UK I’m your host Tom Linden
Nigel at www.hunters-knives.co.uk has offered
you dear listener 10% on all his products simply by using the code PREP10.
Poaching is not what it used to be
Once, the poacher was a man with big pockets in his raincoat
sneaking on to an aristocrat's land to steal game for his family pot. Now he is
likely to be part of a gang from town, in it for hard cash, rampaging through
the countryside with guns, crossbows or snares.
Police in rural areas across Britain are reporting a dramatic increase in poaching, as the rise in food prices and the reality of recession increases the temptation to deal in stolen venison, salmon, or rarer meat and fish.
Organised and sometimes armed gangs of poachers are accused of behaving dangerously, intimidating residents, causing damage to crops or to gates and fences.
Squads have also been out in the countryside "lamping", poachers using lights to transfix animals.
There have even been reports of drive-by poachers, aiming guns through the open windows of moving vehicles to pick off deer or other game. Others go about their work more discreetly, knowing that in some parts of the countryside, if they are careful, their activities can pass unnoticed for weeks.
Here in North Yorkshire recently two whole flocks of sheep have been stolen.
Police in rural areas across Britain are reporting a dramatic increase in poaching, as the rise in food prices and the reality of recession increases the temptation to deal in stolen venison, salmon, or rarer meat and fish.
Organised and sometimes armed gangs of poachers are accused of behaving dangerously, intimidating residents, causing damage to crops or to gates and fences.
Squads have also been out in the countryside "lamping", poachers using lights to transfix animals.
There have even been reports of drive-by poachers, aiming guns through the open windows of moving vehicles to pick off deer or other game. Others go about their work more discreetly, knowing that in some parts of the countryside, if they are careful, their activities can pass unnoticed for weeks.
Here in North Yorkshire recently two whole flocks of sheep have been stolen.
Animals from the smallest shellfish to stags are in danger.
Recently a survey team who visited a river in a remote part of Scotland, were
shocked to find that poachers had stolen mussels, with a potential value of
nearly £20,000, from the river bed. They were prised from the bed of the South
Esk river, near Brechin, Angus.
Freshwater mussels have been protected by law since 1998. To kill, injure or disturb the habitat of a single mussel is punishable by a fine of £10,000, implying that the South Esk poachers, if caught, could face a fine of £1.3m.
A single pearl can fetch £150, and a necklace can be worth £15,000, but the poachers may have difficulty making that sort of money, because jewellers are banned by law from buying loose pearls.
“This was not an opportunistic half-hour in the river," Peter Cosgrove, the scientist in charge of the survey team that discovered the crime, said. "We worked hard to find these mussel beds and that suggests the pearl fishers must have made a similar effort.
They would have had to have systematically been in the river for many days. In all my years doing this type of survey, this might be the largest kill I've seen."
Last week, rural landowners and businesses in Scotland launched a new campaign to get the public to report instances of poaching or illegal hare or deer coursing.
Scotland's National Wildlife Crime Unit has records of 335 incidents of poaching in 18 months, with the numbers now running at more than 20 a month.
Freshwater mussels have been protected by law since 1998. To kill, injure or disturb the habitat of a single mussel is punishable by a fine of £10,000, implying that the South Esk poachers, if caught, could face a fine of £1.3m.
A single pearl can fetch £150, and a necklace can be worth £15,000, but the poachers may have difficulty making that sort of money, because jewellers are banned by law from buying loose pearls.
“This was not an opportunistic half-hour in the river," Peter Cosgrove, the scientist in charge of the survey team that discovered the crime, said. "We worked hard to find these mussel beds and that suggests the pearl fishers must have made a similar effort.
They would have had to have systematically been in the river for many days. In all my years doing this type of survey, this might be the largest kill I've seen."
Last week, rural landowners and businesses in Scotland launched a new campaign to get the public to report instances of poaching or illegal hare or deer coursing.
Scotland's National Wildlife Crime Unit has records of 335 incidents of poaching in 18 months, with the numbers now running at more than 20 a month.
Poaching is particularly common on the urban fringes, a
spokesman for the Scottish Rural Property and Business Association said.
"It's idiots going out into the country with guns, or crossbows.
And there are snares being set by idiots, really for the hell of it. Salmon poaching is on the increase too.
This is not a case of stealing one for the pot: it's on an industrial scale. There are people trawling fish traps in the river beds that will hold a dozen or two dozen fish."
In Hampshire, poachers have struck 14 times in the past month, and police have met local residents and warned them about taking the law into their own hands. Incidents are now three times as common as they were a year ago.
And there are snares being set by idiots, really for the hell of it. Salmon poaching is on the increase too.
This is not a case of stealing one for the pot: it's on an industrial scale. There are people trawling fish traps in the river beds that will hold a dozen or two dozen fish."
In Hampshire, poachers have struck 14 times in the past month, and police have met local residents and warned them about taking the law into their own hands. Incidents are now three times as common as they were a year ago.
One gamekeeper chased poachers from a farm near Corhampton
at speeds of up to 80mph, until they rammed his vehicle to ensure their escape.
The number of incidents reported in the area last month was three times the
figure for the same period in 2007. Charlie Flindt, of Manor Farm, near
Alresford, in Hampshire, said poachers were stealing deer, pheasants,
partridges, and chickens.
In Wales, the Welsh Assembly launched an environment action plan last month to combat wildlife crime, a category that covers poaching and other offences such as the killing of birds of prey, or badger-baiting, which used to be prevalent in South Wales although the culprits seem to have shifted their activities to west Carmarthenshire or Gloucestershire.
One of the more unusual prosecutions brought by wildlife officers in Wales involved the theft of 200,000 wild bluebell bulbs in North Wales, for which two men were arrested and fined £7,000.
Yorkshire police have also warned landowners to be on the look-out after complaints that poaching is on the increase.
This month, police stopped a van in Wetherby High Street. In it they found four men, all from Bradford, dressed in camouflage, with three lurcher dogs, lighting equipment, and a large number of freshly caught rabbits and hares.
In Henley-on-Thames, in South Oxfordshire, the local MP, John Howell, has asked police to meet farmers and gamekeepers furious about the increase in poaching, after several dead hares and vehicles tracks were found on two farms.
The owner of the farms, Michael Colston, said recently:
"What I really fear is that with 10 attacks in just three weeks, some people are beginning to talk about taking the law into their own hands. Something could very well happen. I am very much against this, of course, but these gamekeepers, farmers and residents are terrified."
And it is not just rural areas that are being targeted.
On Hampstead Heath, in north London, a woman out walking her dog last week had a scare when the animal emerged from a dip in the pond with blood pouring from his mouth, after an illegal three-prong hook left by poachers had caught in its tongue.
There are many aspects to these crimes, and poaching can
involve different species, especially those with high resale value such as
salmon and venison.
The president of the Country Land and Business Association, Henry Aubrey-Fletcher, said deer-poaching posed a particular danger. "Many poachers are inexperienced shots and there are risks of the animal being only wounded and not killed outright," he said. "If they are shooting at night and on ground they do not know there is also a raised risk of accidentally shooting someone or something else by mistake."
Financially times are tough and they are going to get tougher I believe so these incidences will increase and may even put the normal countryside citizen in mortal danger.
Whatever is the outcome it can only make it even more difficult for the “Normal” everyday poacher who wishes only to feed his family with one for the pot.
The president of the Country Land and Business Association, Henry Aubrey-Fletcher, said deer-poaching posed a particular danger. "Many poachers are inexperienced shots and there are risks of the animal being only wounded and not killed outright," he said. "If they are shooting at night and on ground they do not know there is also a raised risk of accidentally shooting someone or something else by mistake."
Financially times are tough and they are going to get tougher I believe so these incidences will increase and may even put the normal countryside citizen in mortal danger.
Whatever is the outcome it can only make it even more difficult for the “Normal” everyday poacher who wishes only to feed his family with one for the pot.
Further Companies to
Support
Uses natural fuel
EDC steel tools
Highlander Trojan Hydration Pack – Multicam
CUDEMAN HEAVY DUTY OLIVE WOOD BUSHCRAFT KNIFE - 111L
Alum Crystal and natural spa products
Tool logic Survival 11 Credit Card
BackHawk Web duty Belt
Guppie Multi=tool
Go Survival Pack
Beautiful Handmade Catapults
1 Person BASIC Backpack Survival Kit, the back pack that
does it all
DD Hammock –The ultimate in Travel Hammocks
Elzetta ZFL-M60 Tactical Weapon-Grade LED Torch
Ultimate Adventurer Survival Kit everything in one kit
Adjustable Knife Lanyard Review
Handmade knives by James D. Sanders
Mini alarm Device with an Ultra bright White LED
Lightload towels
The LUCI light
Fire Dragon Gel
TBS Boar Folding
Pocket Knife
Live Fire Emergency Fire Starter
THE ultimate Emergency Survival Fishing Kit
Gerber Mini Remix -
Drop Point, Fine Edge
The Mule Light
The BodyGard is the
Rolls-Royce of keychain emergency tools. Its two essential (and life-saving)
tools are its seat belt cutter and door glass breaker.
The BodyGard also includes a sonic alarm (to attract attention and ward-off a would-be attacker), LED flashlight, and distress flasher (a bright red flashing light).
The BodyGard is compact and smartly attaches to your keychain so it's within reach during an emergency. You owe it to yourself and to your family to carry a BodyGard.
The BodyGard also includes a sonic alarm (to attract attention and ward-off a would-be attacker), LED flashlight, and distress flasher (a bright red flashing light).
The BodyGard is compact and smartly attaches to your keychain so it's within reach during an emergency. You owe it to yourself and to your family to carry a BodyGard.
The powermonkey
explorer is not just for adventure travellers. It is Compatible with the majority of
smartphones including iPhone and BlackBerry, mobile phones, iPods, MP3 / MP4,
PDAs and portable games consoles.
The powermonkey
explorer is a portable charger for your 5V devices - giving you 96 hours of
standby on your mobile, 40 hours on your iPod, 5 hours on your games console,
48 hours on your PDA and 6 hours on MP3/MP4 players.
What I Think makes
the best survival knife?
With the best
survival tool in the world “your brain” and a survival knife you are able and
ready to attack any situation that may arise in the wilderness as a threat to
your survival.
I own Chris Caines’s Companion and his survival knife.
These knives do a good job of skinning, butchering and filleting, and are very good at cutting wood to build a fire or to make shelter.
I don’t plan on getting into a real survival situation. In fact, I do a lot of planning to make sure I don’t.
But that is the whole problem, nobody plans on getting into a real survival situation, do we? but it still happens.
I am a self-confessed knife nut but what should we look for in a Good Survival Knife? Well this is what I want in a survival knife
Fixed blade
Full tang
Solid handle with hilt and flat pommel
Blade metal – carbon steel or stainless steel
Blade design – straight edge or partially serrated, flat or serrated spine
Blade length – 4 – 9 inches
Blade thickness – 1/8 – 1/4 inch (0.125 – 0.25)
Lanyard hole – security and for lashing to pole to make spear
Useful sheath
Survival not Tactical
Fixed Blade
There are lots of nice folding and lock blade knives, but I think it goes without saying, that you want a fixed blade for the strongest possible utility and survival knife. Never put force straight down on the tip of a folding blade or you will risk cutting off your trigger finger. Even the best lock blades can fail under pressure.
Full Tang
In a Full Tang Knife, the Blade Extends the Full Length of the Handle
Full tang simply means the part of the metal of the blade extends the entire length of the handle for maximum strength. A half tang blade would extend halfway down the handle. If it goes without saying that the survival knife needs to have a fixed blade, it also needs to have a full tang.
Some full tangs are narrow; some are the full width of the knife handle.
I have yet to see a good knife with storage space in the handle. The blade may be strong and sharp, but when the handle breaks off, you will not be happy.
What can you do with a knife with no handle? I guess you could make your own handle, use the end of the blade as the tang and just have a shorter knife.
Solid Handle with Hilt and Flat Pommel
Handles of the most popular survival knives are made from a variety of natural and man-made products including Kratan (synthetic rubber), molded plastic, leather (stacked leather washers) and Micarta layered fabric and resin.
Some knives only have the metal tang (skeleton) as the handle. The important thing is that it fit your hand and allows a good, non-slip grip when you are sweaty or if the knife is wet. It is also important to have a handle with a hilt and a pommel that is wider than the handle to improve the grip when stabbing and chopping and the pommel should also be flat so you can use it as a hammer.
You don’t want the knife to slip while you are furiously chopping. I suggest the use of a paracord laynard.
Blade Metal
The easy answer is to choose knives with carbon steel or stainless steel blades. The strength, hardness, flexibility and the ability of the blade to take and hold an edge is all effected by the type of metal used.
More importantly than the type of steel itself, according to some experts, is the annealing process (heat treatment). A big point to remember is that all knife metal, even stainless steel will rust if not cared for
The hard answer is… well, it’s hard. I think of myself as an educated guy, but I am not a knife maker or a metallurgist, so while researching the variations of carbon and stainless steels used by various knife manufacturers and after reading many arguments back and forth between the experts about relative steel hardness, cost, difficulty to sharpen, and the likelihood that blades may chip, my head was spinning.
I don’t speak the language. If D2, 1095, 440C or CPM154CM already means something to you, then you probably aren’t looking to me for information.
I will let the experts argue the good, the bad and the finer points of each.
We have to trust that there is a legitimate reason to use one type of steel over the other and that it’s not just some current marketing hype.
We also have to trust that the makers of our knives actually used the type of steel they claim, but probably more importantly that they have treated, ground and sharpened the knives properly.
As long as our knives perform well at the tasks we require, holds an edge for a reasonable amount of time, and can be sharpened without too much effort, then it probably doesn’t matter much.
Does a 50% difference in price between two metals translate to a 50% difference in desired performance of strength, hardness, flexibility or the ability of the blade to take and hold an edge?
How would that be demonstrated to us before we bought a knife?
Some blades are serrated or at least partially serrated, not just to look intimidating, but to increase the effectiveness of slicing cuts.
Since a survival knife may need to make both pushing cuts and slicing cuts, a reasonable option is to have a partially serrated blade.
A blade that has a serrated portion of less than 1.5 inches may not be very useful. It is interesting that most partially serrated blades seem to have the serrations near the handle which is the best place for whittling; maximum control for push cuts and the plain straight edge is at the belly of the knife, which is the exact place on the blade you need for slicing.
That may seem to be reversed, but remember, the survival knife is a general utility tool, not a specific tool for a specific job.
Chopping is also best with a smooth blade and the sweet spot for chopping is also at, and just behind the belly of the knife.
Flat vs Serrated Spine
A knife with a flat spine can be hit with a baton (club) to be driven through poles or to split wood, but it cannot be used as a saw. The serrated spine was originally developed for U.S. Air Force pilots to be used to escape from downed aircraft.
It may look tough, but it won’t be much use in the woods unless you need to open a can from the inside.
Blade Length
I see where people recommend blade lengths from as small as 4 inches to as large as 10 inches.
A small blade can cut, but can’t chop or be driven through wood with a baton very well. On the other hand, a large knife may chop well, but will always be heavy and may be hard to carry strapped to your leg.
Again, a survival knife is a general purpose tool and if we knew what task was needed most, we could make a better decision about blade length.
Any length of a good quality blade in the hand will be better than another blade left at home.
Blade Thickness
I have seen everything from 0.1 inch up to 1/4 inch thick blades recommended for survival knifes. The thinner blades will be better for fine whittling jobs such as making trap triggers and the thicker blades will be better for prying and chopping, but again, they will always be heavier.
Hole for Lanyard
A loop of paracord through a lanyard hole is the first step to prevent losing your knife while crashing through the bushes or scrambling up and down steep hillsides, especially if you have a poor quality sheath.
Additional lanyard holes make it easy to attach the knife to a pole to make a spear.
Useful Sheath
I like the look and feel of a leather sheath over Kydex, but in wet weather leather can absorb water and kydex does not.
Once wet, it may take days for a leather sheath to dry out and all that moisture will cause the knife and the sheath rivets to corrode.
The sheath must hold the knife safely and securely and not restrict your movement. It must keep the wearer safe from getting cut or stabbed while scrambling through thick cover or while climbing. It also must keep the knife from falling out even if it is upside down.
Survival Not Tactical
Remember, a survival knife needs to be a multi-purpose tool, not a specialized weapon, entry or rescue tool. It is much more likely that the knife will be needed to cut, chop and split wood or to pry and dig than to be used for self-defence or for hunting and butchering food.
Many knives seem to be cross marketed as both survival and tactical knives as if both types of knives were totally interchangeable.
I have made choices in my life that virtually guarantees that I will never own a Lamborghini, a Lear jet, a private island or more importantly, a 10,000 acre estate.
I will never own a Browning Superposed shotgun, I will never wear a £10,000 watch, I will never drink a $1,000 bottle of wine and I will probably never spend £1,000 on an ultimate survival knife.
So what’s a poor guy to do? We do what we always do, we buy the very best we can afford at the time and it is that simple.
I own Chris Caines’s Companion and his survival knife.
These knives do a good job of skinning, butchering and filleting, and are very good at cutting wood to build a fire or to make shelter.
I don’t plan on getting into a real survival situation. In fact, I do a lot of planning to make sure I don’t.
But that is the whole problem, nobody plans on getting into a real survival situation, do we? but it still happens.
I am a self-confessed knife nut but what should we look for in a Good Survival Knife? Well this is what I want in a survival knife
Fixed blade
Full tang
Solid handle with hilt and flat pommel
Blade metal – carbon steel or stainless steel
Blade design – straight edge or partially serrated, flat or serrated spine
Blade length – 4 – 9 inches
Blade thickness – 1/8 – 1/4 inch (0.125 – 0.25)
Lanyard hole – security and for lashing to pole to make spear
Useful sheath
Survival not Tactical
Fixed Blade
There are lots of nice folding and lock blade knives, but I think it goes without saying, that you want a fixed blade for the strongest possible utility and survival knife. Never put force straight down on the tip of a folding blade or you will risk cutting off your trigger finger. Even the best lock blades can fail under pressure.
Full Tang
In a Full Tang Knife, the Blade Extends the Full Length of the Handle
Full tang simply means the part of the metal of the blade extends the entire length of the handle for maximum strength. A half tang blade would extend halfway down the handle. If it goes without saying that the survival knife needs to have a fixed blade, it also needs to have a full tang.
Some full tangs are narrow; some are the full width of the knife handle.
I have yet to see a good knife with storage space in the handle. The blade may be strong and sharp, but when the handle breaks off, you will not be happy.
What can you do with a knife with no handle? I guess you could make your own handle, use the end of the blade as the tang and just have a shorter knife.
Solid Handle with Hilt and Flat Pommel
Handles of the most popular survival knives are made from a variety of natural and man-made products including Kratan (synthetic rubber), molded plastic, leather (stacked leather washers) and Micarta layered fabric and resin.
Some knives only have the metal tang (skeleton) as the handle. The important thing is that it fit your hand and allows a good, non-slip grip when you are sweaty or if the knife is wet. It is also important to have a handle with a hilt and a pommel that is wider than the handle to improve the grip when stabbing and chopping and the pommel should also be flat so you can use it as a hammer.
You don’t want the knife to slip while you are furiously chopping. I suggest the use of a paracord laynard.
Blade Metal
The easy answer is to choose knives with carbon steel or stainless steel blades. The strength, hardness, flexibility and the ability of the blade to take and hold an edge is all effected by the type of metal used.
More importantly than the type of steel itself, according to some experts, is the annealing process (heat treatment). A big point to remember is that all knife metal, even stainless steel will rust if not cared for
The hard answer is… well, it’s hard. I think of myself as an educated guy, but I am not a knife maker or a metallurgist, so while researching the variations of carbon and stainless steels used by various knife manufacturers and after reading many arguments back and forth between the experts about relative steel hardness, cost, difficulty to sharpen, and the likelihood that blades may chip, my head was spinning.
I don’t speak the language. If D2, 1095, 440C or CPM154CM already means something to you, then you probably aren’t looking to me for information.
I will let the experts argue the good, the bad and the finer points of each.
We have to trust that there is a legitimate reason to use one type of steel over the other and that it’s not just some current marketing hype.
We also have to trust that the makers of our knives actually used the type of steel they claim, but probably more importantly that they have treated, ground and sharpened the knives properly.
As long as our knives perform well at the tasks we require, holds an edge for a reasonable amount of time, and can be sharpened without too much effort, then it probably doesn’t matter much.
Does a 50% difference in price between two metals translate to a 50% difference in desired performance of strength, hardness, flexibility or the ability of the blade to take and hold an edge?
How would that be demonstrated to us before we bought a knife?
Some blades are serrated or at least partially serrated, not just to look intimidating, but to increase the effectiveness of slicing cuts.
Since a survival knife may need to make both pushing cuts and slicing cuts, a reasonable option is to have a partially serrated blade.
A blade that has a serrated portion of less than 1.5 inches may not be very useful. It is interesting that most partially serrated blades seem to have the serrations near the handle which is the best place for whittling; maximum control for push cuts and the plain straight edge is at the belly of the knife, which is the exact place on the blade you need for slicing.
That may seem to be reversed, but remember, the survival knife is a general utility tool, not a specific tool for a specific job.
Chopping is also best with a smooth blade and the sweet spot for chopping is also at, and just behind the belly of the knife.
Flat vs Serrated Spine
A knife with a flat spine can be hit with a baton (club) to be driven through poles or to split wood, but it cannot be used as a saw. The serrated spine was originally developed for U.S. Air Force pilots to be used to escape from downed aircraft.
It may look tough, but it won’t be much use in the woods unless you need to open a can from the inside.
Blade Length
I see where people recommend blade lengths from as small as 4 inches to as large as 10 inches.
A small blade can cut, but can’t chop or be driven through wood with a baton very well. On the other hand, a large knife may chop well, but will always be heavy and may be hard to carry strapped to your leg.
Again, a survival knife is a general purpose tool and if we knew what task was needed most, we could make a better decision about blade length.
Any length of a good quality blade in the hand will be better than another blade left at home.
Blade Thickness
I have seen everything from 0.1 inch up to 1/4 inch thick blades recommended for survival knifes. The thinner blades will be better for fine whittling jobs such as making trap triggers and the thicker blades will be better for prying and chopping, but again, they will always be heavier.
Hole for Lanyard
A loop of paracord through a lanyard hole is the first step to prevent losing your knife while crashing through the bushes or scrambling up and down steep hillsides, especially if you have a poor quality sheath.
Additional lanyard holes make it easy to attach the knife to a pole to make a spear.
Useful Sheath
I like the look and feel of a leather sheath over Kydex, but in wet weather leather can absorb water and kydex does not.
Once wet, it may take days for a leather sheath to dry out and all that moisture will cause the knife and the sheath rivets to corrode.
The sheath must hold the knife safely and securely and not restrict your movement. It must keep the wearer safe from getting cut or stabbed while scrambling through thick cover or while climbing. It also must keep the knife from falling out even if it is upside down.
Survival Not Tactical
Remember, a survival knife needs to be a multi-purpose tool, not a specialized weapon, entry or rescue tool. It is much more likely that the knife will be needed to cut, chop and split wood or to pry and dig than to be used for self-defence or for hunting and butchering food.
Many knives seem to be cross marketed as both survival and tactical knives as if both types of knives were totally interchangeable.
I have made choices in my life that virtually guarantees that I will never own a Lamborghini, a Lear jet, a private island or more importantly, a 10,000 acre estate.
I will never own a Browning Superposed shotgun, I will never wear a £10,000 watch, I will never drink a $1,000 bottle of wine and I will probably never spend £1,000 on an ultimate survival knife.
So what’s a poor guy to do? We do what we always do, we buy the very best we can afford at the time and it is that simple.
Stealth Camping
Stealth camping is
the act of secretly camping in a public or private area (sometimes legally –
sometimes illegally) and moving on the next morning without being detected.
Stealth camping is
an excellent way to not only find free places to camp, but is also a great way
to discover excellent campground locations, get a good night’s rest in a quiet
location and secure a night’s lodging away from the hustle and bustle of other
people, animals and vehicles.
Camp above any nearby roads or trails. People tend to look down more than they look
up… and climbing uphill is difficult, so it is less likely that others will
come looking for you if you are up high. Plus, from up high, you can look down
on others who might be approaching your camp.
Use a brown, green or earth-toned tent to blend in with
your surroundings. Camouflage works
wonders when it comes to stealth camping.
Cover your tracks. Be sure to cover up or hide any foot prints or bicycle tracks that might
lead people to your campsite. Even broken branches can lead a person to your
camp, so try not to disturb the nature surrounding your stealth campsite.
Don’t make a fire unless you absolutely have to. Smoke and light from a campfire attracts
attention.
Look for animal tracks in the area depending on where in the world you are
avoid camping in locations where moose, bear, wolves, racoons, skunks and
other animals may frequent or use as sleeping locations.
Don’t make camp on the other side of a river, estuary or
canal. These sources of water may
flood overnight and cause you to get stuck.
A dirt road will turn to mud overnight in a rainstorm. Be sure you have an exit strategy for the
following morning.
Be quiet.
Don’t draw attention to yourself by making a lot of noise.
Don’t camp in an area where you might easily be
discovered by dogs. A dog on a walk
with its owner will quickly give away your location.
Know how to set up and break down your camp quickly. Sometimes speed is your best ally.
You are your own source of rescue. If no one knows where you are and you get
sick, hurt yourself, or otherwise get into trouble, you are the only one who
can get you out of the situation. This is one of the most dangerous aspects of
stealth camping.
Know what the law is. Each country treats stealth camping differently. It’s totally common and
acceptable in some parts of the world, and totally illegal in other parts. Do
you research before stealth camping to avoid being harassed, fined or thrown in
jail?
The best time to find and set up a stealth campsite is
just before it gets dark. If you
set up camp too early you might be discovered by people who are still out for
the day. If you set up too late, on the other hand, you could find yourself
trying to pitch your tent in the dark.
Avoid pitching your tent in the dark. Not only can you not scout out the location
of your campsite as well when it is dark, but any flashlights or headlamps you
might use will give away your location.
Break camp early. Wake up, pack your gear and hit the road before most people are even
awake or outside.
Leave your campsite in the same condition it was in when
you first found it. Pack out all
rubbish and make it look as though you were never there. This benefits both you
and future stealth campers who might come after you.
The harder it is for you to get to your campsite, the
less likely it is that other people will find you. People are generally lazy and will usually give up before navigating to
difficult locations.
Don’t camp on the other side of large fences or gates. Even though the fence/gate is open now, it
might be locked in the morning. You don’t want to get trapped inside a fence or
gate and then be unable to escape.
Be able to call or signal for help if you get hurt, sick,
etc. Carrying a flashlight, mirror,
whistle, cell phone, or satellite phone might be a good idea.
The best stealth campgrounds aren’t always the most
scenic. The goal is to blend in –
not to stand out.
Don’t use lights at night unless you absolutely have to. Lights attract attention and can sometimes
be seen from several miles/kilometres away. If you must use your light, use it
for only short periods of time and in short bursts (like a firefly).
Sometimes (but very rarely) the best hiding spot is right
out in the open where people
passing by will think, “I guess you are allowed to camp there?”
Never get caught. Never.
If you do get caught, play dumb and/or if necessary,
offer to leave. There is no need to
get in trouble for stealth camping. Simply pack up your campsite, move on and
find somewhere else to spend the night.
Be willing to change camping spots if after a short while you realize the
campsite you picked out initially is unsafe or in a location where you might be
discovered.
For a speedy getaway, don’t use a tent. Instead, just sleep on top of your sleeping
mat (under the stars) or consider the use of a compact bivy sack.
Don’t camp in an area that could be flooded with people
early the next morning. Just
because the place is empty in the evening doesn’t mean it will be empty when
you wake up the following day.
The larger your group, the more likely it is that you
will be discovered. Groups take up
more space and make more noise, thereby attracting more attention to
themselves.
Don’t camp in areas where there are “Private Property”
and “No Trespassing” signs.
Not only will you not have the excuse of saying you didn’t know you were
allowed to be there, but these are generally areas where people, land owners
and the public alike are on the lookout for stealth campers like you.
Use shadows to your advantage. Hide in dark spaces – under trees and bushes (for example) where you are
not easily spotted.
Avoid camping in places where children might play. Not only are kids good at climbing into
small spaces and building forts in and under trees, but if they do find you
they will surely run home and tell mommy and daddy about the strange person
they saw camping in their play spot.
Sometimes simply asking if you can camp somewhere is the
best approach. Don’t be afraid to
ask locals, land owners and even the police where you can find a good place to
camp for the night.
Don’t camp in a place that could flood or fill with
water. This includes dry riverbeds,
empty swimming pools, drainage ditches, etc.
Don’t arouse suspicion. Don’t let anyone see you going to
or leaving from your campsite. If
you must be seen, be seen on your way out of the campsite – just as you are
leaving. By then you are already on your way and there is little anyone can say
or do if they discover what you’ve been up to.
Wear earth-colour clothing to blend in with your
surroundings. Change your clothes,
if necessary, before you even begin looking for a stealth campsite for the
night.
Remove all lights, reflectors and white, light or flashy
material from your tent, bicycle, backpack or other gear so as not to be detected by flashlights or
passing vehicle headlamps.
Watch out for surveillance cameras that might be mounted
in the area. A camera that catches
you coming or going from your campsite might be all it takes to get you in a
serious heap of trouble.
Avoid areas frequented by geocachers. Many stealth campsites are located in the
same areas that are frequented by these GPS treasure hunters. Learn more at www.geocaching.com.
Get over your fear of the dark. Stealth camping doesn’t have to be scary.
Worrying about animals, bigfoot, ghosts or other creatures that go bump in the
night will only add to any anxiety you might have about your stealth camping
experience.
The more practice you get with stealth camping, the
easier it becomes. Finding places
to sleep each night becomes easier, because you know what to look for… and
you’ll begin to relax and enjoy the experience the more you do it.
Avoid camping in areas covered in large amounts of poo. This means avoiding areas that are
frequented by cattle, sheep, goats and other farm/herd animals. The animals
could quickly inundate your campsite and the farmer could easily spot you.
All the regular camping rules still apply. Avoid camping in the wind. Don’t camp under anything
that could fall on you in the middle of the night. Sleep on flat ground. Hang
your food if animals are in the area, etc.
Don’t set up camp right away. Find a spot you think might be good and then wait a little while. Scout
out the location. See if anyone walks past. Notice what animals are in the
area.
Listen for other
campers that might be in the area. Note the wind direction, etc. After you are
sure that this location is a good place to settle down for the night, then go
about setting up your campsite.
Know your way out. Be sure you can find your way from the campsite back to the road or
trail that you came in on. If you wake up in the morning and the ground is
suddenly covered in snow, for example, finding your way back the way you came
might be extremely difficult.
Use a compass or a
GPS if necessary to find your way back to the road/trail.
Keep moving. Never camp in the same place twice (or for
very long). The longer you stay in
one location, the more likely it is that you will be caught or that people in
the area will object to your choice of campground.
Camp in an area where even if you are discovered, people
won’t mind you camping there. This
usually means avoiding abandoned buildings, behind people’s homes or
businesses, public places where people or children or present… and instead
camping in forests, desolate beaches, wild valleys, and farm land etc.
Don’t feel guilty when you stealth camp. Stealth camping
usually isn’t illegal. Most of the
time, stealth camping simply means that you are camping in a wild, undeveloped,
unfenced area in an attempt to get some sleep, remain out of sight and
experience a peaceful night in a wilderness situation.
Don’t feel like you
are committing a crime (unless you are) just because you’ve decided to stealth
camp.
Have fun.
Remember that the whole reason you are camping in the first place is to have
fun, enjoy the outdoors and get a good night’s rest. If you aren’t having fun
and generally enjoying yourself, you’re doing something wrong.
BREAK
You are listening to the UK preppers Radio network on
KPRNDB-UK I’m your host Tom Linden
Signalling for
Help
The time to prepare
to be rescued is before you ever need to signal for help. Leave a trip
itinerary with a trustworthy and reliable friend.
List the times you expect
to be at points along the way. Include your travel route and note your arrival
time. Plans can change; if yours does, notify your friend as it occurs. Make
notes in your itinerary that show contingency plans.
Pre select meeting
places should your party become separated. Rescue workers will more easily
locate you if you become lost. It’s also helpful to include entries about the
physical condition of the group members, medicines, tents, clothes, water and
contact information for immediate family and physicians.
Trailblazer and explorer, Daniel Boone said,
“I have never been lost,
but I will admit to being confused for several weeks.”
“I have never been lost,
but I will admit to being confused for several weeks.”
Should you arrive at
a similar state of confusion and require assistance, there are several ways to
signal for help.
To signal for help
you may use a variety of items such as Mobile phones radio beacons, colourful
cloth, fires, flashlights, smoke, whistles or mirrors. The ability to calm
yourself will enable you to creatively consider ways to alert rescuers to your
location. As will knowing how to accurately assess your options can save
your life.
If you should lose
your way, your position should be marked right away. In order to easily
identify your position, create a pile of rocks, brush, or break some twigs.
Your home base is now established. Should attempts to find your way out fail,
home base is where you will return. Additionally, this is the spot where you’ll
wait for rescuers to find you.
Leave a note at this
location if you decide to move from it. Detail your intentions and the
direction of your travel. As you move along your path, mark your way with piles
of rocks, broken sticks or some other sign at even intervals. These markings
will help search teams determine your location.
Battery operated
signalling devices are of great value. However, over-dependence on them is
unwise.
They include
individual Location Beacons (PLBs), satellite telephones, avalanche rescue
beacons and other personal communication technology can be useful. Other
emergency location devices are ELTs (Emergency Locator Transmitters), used by
pilots, and EPIRBs (Emergency Position-Indicating Radio Beacons) used by
sailors.
Don’t allow the
convenience of modern technology to be a temptation to take unnecessary risks.
Mobile phones and GPS units could become little more than body location devices
if the user has the attitude that help is only a button’s press away.
Keep in mind that
battery-operated equipment can fail, even under ideal conditions. Rugged
outdoors with uneven, hilly terrain can cause poor reception or none at all.
Equipment wear, damage, weak batteries and user incapacitation could make it
impossible to utilize these tools.
It is wise to carry
additional survival supplies and equipment and lean heavily upon acquired
skills and sound judgment for survival. Know realistically what your
personal limits are and be familiar with the limits of your equipment in
different conditions. These measures will limit the need for PLBs and emergency
recovery efforts.
Although flares are
easy to spot, they don’t last long. These shouldn’t be wasted. Be aware that
they aren’t easily seen from a distance during the day. Distance signalling
with flares is only effective at night.
Whistles are little
items that are not heavy to carry and are simple to use. Emergency whistles can
alert others to your presence. The sound of a whistle can tell a human ear the
direction from which it originates. Conversely, the sound of a human voice
calling out can be muted and dispelled by leafy cover.
The exertion of
extended bouts of yelling or calling can leave you weak and winded. Instead,
whistles can be used for an extended time by those who are weak or injured.
The worldwide signal
for distress is a grouping of three bursts of sound. This is true whether you
are using a whistle or a blast from a rifle. A grouping of two bursts of sound
signals that all is well. The blast of an emergency whistle can be heard as
much as five miles away.
In city settings, a
personal whistle is valuable. It enables the wearer to attract help by alerting
others of dangerous conditions. A signaling whistle can be worn on a string
about the neck of a child.
It isn’t a good idea
to use metal whistles in an emergency kit. When wet, lips can adhere to cold
metal. It is advisable to look for plastic whistles that are flat if you wear
one or carry it in a pocket or pouch.
Emergency signal
mirrors will make you visible to searchers, but this is dependent upon your
ability to use them effectively. A well-aimed signal mirror cannot be ignored.
Your position will be revealed to those 10+ miles away, even in a heavily
forested area or in hilly terrain.
Mirrors produced for
the purpose of signalling are often resistant to breakage, small, lightweight
and produced with an eyelet hole for attaching it by a strap to the neck or
waist. Another hole is located in the centre of the glass for use in aiming the
reflected beam of light.
This hole is used by
looking through it to direct the light towards specific locations along the
ground or in the sky. When looking through the viewing hole, the user can
determine the point of impact of the reflected beam and adjust it to catch the
attention of emergency personnel.
Emergency mirrors
are not required to use this method. Mirrors from a car, compass mirrors, a
polished music CD, a makeup mirror, foil wrappers, shiny cans or any other
polished flat metal can be used in this manner.
Stick aiming and the
hand technique are two methods that will allow you to aim reflected sunlight.
The hand technique
requires that you extend your hand with two fingers raised in a “V” formation.
Look between the two digits and move your hand so that your target (possibly an
aircraft) is visible in its centre. Adjust the mirror’s surface so that the
reflected light moves between your fingers (the ones forming the “V”) also.
Your reflected light will make contact with your target.
The stick method
uses a twig or limb that is equal to the height of your chest or head. Your
position should be such that the top of the stick and your mirror are in line
with the target. By positioning the mirror so that the light touches the top of
the stick (while still in line with the target) you can alert rescuers.
Using your signal
mirror, cast reflected light over the horizon regularly. While you may not see
search teams, they might catch sight of your signal. Once you are sure you have
been seen, do not continue to signal. A signal mirror’s flash can be blinding.
To become proficient
with a signal mirror, practice the skill before you need it in an emergency
situation.
There are many signs
that can signal a need for help. Flat horizontal surfaces as well as vertical
surfaces are good choices for these displays. Three sides of a triangle will
signal searchers of your need for rescue and your location.
Remember, three is a
universal signal for distress. Write the word “HELP” in large uppercase
letters. The letter “V” signals that immediate relief is needed. SOS in large,
capital letters says that assistance is required. A large “X” signifies a need
for emergency medical aid.
These symbols can be
stamped out with your feet or formed using piles of rocks, branches, brush, or
whatever materials you have on hand. If you are in a flat or sandy area, you
may be able to scratch the symbol into the dirt. The corners of a triangle can
be made more visible by setting fires or flares at each angled point.
A vehicle should be
made easier to spot by air search teams by clearing away brush, use fabric as a
flag, or anything else you have on hand, Oil and fuel can be used to start
signal fires which can be fed with other material from the vehicle – anything
that produces smoke.
Use your time to
place several distress signs around your area, making your position more
prominent.
When you’ve spotted
rescue workers, wave to attract their attention. Use the universal signal for
distress which is extending and waving both arms while crossing your hands over
your head. A one-armed wave signals that all is well. Don’t interchange these.
When lost (or
‘confused’ as Daniel Boone would say) ask yourself if a quick rescue is likely.
If the answer to this is yes, and it would take a small amount of expended
energy to do so, employing the use of signs and signals to alert rescuers of
your location should become a priority.
