Show Notes
I begin this weeks packed show with the
Blizzard Survival 20% discount offer then In the news, What’s in a name, Hypothermia,
Campfire trout, support these companies, Outdoor Toilet, which wood burns best,
Beaufort
Scale of Wind Force, Here are some more companies to support, The Will Lord
Interview, Further companies to support, shelter, tasty wild duck, Wilderness
Medicine and Survival Tips, Steps to Survive & Thrive in ANY Circumstance,
Signal Crayfish, Here are two great Bushcraft shows for you to attend this year.
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What’s in a name?
Munroes
These were first compiled by Sir Hugh Munro in 1891 but have
since been revised several times currently totalling 283 Scottish Mountains
over 3000ft (914.4m)
Munro Baggers are the name given to those enthusiasts who
endeavour to complete the 'circuit' some of whom attempt it as one continuous
trip and others who take years. Over 4,500 walkers are now listed as having
bagged all the Munros.
Corbetts
These were compiled by John Rooke Corbett and are 220
Scottish hills between 2500 and 2999 feet high with a drop of at least 30
metres on all sides.
Marilyns
Nothing to do with Miss Munro but listed by Alan Dawson as British
hills of any height with a drop of at least 150 metres on all sides. The
geographical area includes the Isle of Man and the islands of St Kilda.
Grahams
Also compiled by Alan Dawson, Grahams are 224 Scottish hills
which are between 2000 and 2499 feet high with a drop of 150 metres on all
sides. He names them after the late Fiona Graham who made her own list about
the same time.
Wainwrights
These are the 214 fells that Alfred Wainwright loved and
immortalised in his 7 Pictoral Guides to the Lakeland Fells.
Nuttals
253 English and 189 Welsh hills over 2000ft. These were
listed by John and Anne Nuttall’s Mountains of England and Wales. There are 253
Nuttalls, of which 178 are Hewitts, and 51 are Marilyns
Hewitts
This list by Alan Dawson again and a list of Hills in
England, Wales and Ireland over 2000ft.
Technical Definition
Within Great Britain and Ireland, a mountain is now usually
defined as any summit at least 2,000 feet (or 610 metres) high, whilst the
official UK government's definition of a mountain is a summit of 600 metres or
higher. In addition, some definitions also include a topographical prominence
requirement, typically 100 feet (30 m) or 500 feet (152 m). For a while, the US
defined a mountain as being 1,000 feet (304.8 m) or more tall. Any similar land
form lower than this height was considered a hill.
Unfortunately, there is no universally accepted standard
definition for the height of a mountain or a hill although a mountain usually
has an identifiable summit.
In the United Kingdom, a mountain must be over 600 metres
(1969 feet) or over 300 metres (984 feet) if it's an abrupt difference in the
local topography. However, some hills can be called mountains and some
mountains can be called hills - it's just a matter of the original name given
to the relief.
Hypothermia
Hypothermia occurs when the body loses heat faster than it
can generate it, leading to a situation where the body core is unable to
maintain sufficient warmth to allow the proper function of vital organs.
Wet, wind and cold are the key environmental factors that
cause hypothermia. Any two of these is enough to start the cooling process in
earnest.
As you move it is important to vent the moisture your body
is creating as you exert yourself. At the same time you will attempt to protect
yourself against the wind and rain. It is vital to keep your base layer as dry
as possible, as wet or damp clothing against your body will cause you to lose
heat 25 times faster than when dry.
A few degrees is all
it takes!
Normal body core temperature is 37C. The skin is usually
cooler by a few degrees.
Shivering occurs when core temperature drops to 35C. The
body is automatically trying to produce warmth by muscular activity.
Below 35C, we start to experience clumsiness, irrational
behaviour and generally confused state. A person may appear to be drunk.
At this stage the person suffering is almost exhausted and
unable to produce body heat, let alone keep moving. Exercising the person will
only increase the hypothermia.
It would be dangerous to take the person suffering from
hypothermia into a warm room as it can cause the blood to rush from the core to
the extremities which suddenly may send the person into a coma.
At 33C the person will be shivering, incoherent and complain
of aching stiff muscles. They are now on the edge of severe hypothermia. If the
temperature continues to drop they will slip into unconsciousness and may lose
response to painful stimulus.
At 28C the person will give the appearance of death. It is
important not to give up on treatment. There have been several cases where the
person has made a full recovery having been kept alive by rescue breathing and
CPR for several hours! For this reason a doctor will only pronounce the person
dead when the body has returned to room temperature.
Campfire Trout
All you need for this very tasty treat are some rocks, a
fire, a small but strong stick and of course the fish. The best is hot embers
for a fire. No flames because they will burn your fish.
Gut and remove all viscera (leave the head on). If you are
lucky enough to have roe, leave it within the fish cavity. See Do You Know How
To Clean A Fish?
Place the stick through the cavity you made when you gutted
the fish and into the head. It will let the fish hang down. Position the fish
so heat will be even on its side, using rocks to hold the stick erect and
steady.
Keep a good eye on your fish during the cooking process.
Heat can set your fish on fire. Reposition the trout as needed so the other
side can cook. This should be done several times during the cooking process.
Quite often the tail catches fire; that is no big deal, just
keep the flames to a minimum. It helps to have water handy to sprinkle on the fire
if too many flames pop up.
Look inside for colour changes to indicate cooking. Your
trout has a red and translucent grey-whitish colour when raw which will change
to a solid white and grey brown when cooked, The best area of the fish to check
for doneness is within the body cavity around the thick part of the fish back
bone. Also, the eye will change colour from a translucent to a solid white.
When done peel back the skin and just remove filets
lengthwise.
Thats it!!! enjoy..yummy.. yum.
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for some new kit then please Support these Companies
The following
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For I-shields UV Protection
For top quality 550 Paracord
For Survival Knives and Survival Kits
For the Nano Striker fire starter
For tasty MX3 Meals
The Lifesaver bottle
For the Knot Bone Lacelock
For the Wild and Edible Nutrition E Book
Browning Night Seeker Cap Light RGB
Multi lite Multi-tool
For the Ghillie Kettle
For the Blackbird SK-5 or his handmade leather sheaths http://www.hedgehogleatherworks.com
For the Farside Outdoor Meals
The Survivor knife
For the Chris Caine companion survival tool
Outdoor Toilet
If you are out for more than a day with no access to
toilets, you need to be aware of how to defecate, without impacting on the
environment.
I generally take with us a Toilet Trowel Bag and keep it
within easy reach. This is just a nylon drawstring bag that contains:
A lightweight trowel
Some biodegradable toilet paper if possible, or pack of
tissues if not. (This is kept dry and placed inside a zip lock plastic bag.)
A disposable lighter
Wet wipes or hand sanitizing gel
Firstly select a spot away at least 50m from any path and at
least 30 from any water source. Always go ‘below’ camp and away from any water
source. Water for drinking should then be taken from ‘above’ camp.
Next use your trowel to dig a small hole about 6 inches
deep. Under trees the soil is often softer, which makes life easier. Make sure
it doesn’t look like a place others might choose to camp or picnic in. The more
remote the better.
After you have performed, use the toilet paper and if
conditions allow, set it alight. Making sure there is no chance of undergrowth
catching fire. Leaves and moss can be used if you don’t have any paper.
If conditions don’t allow you to burn paper, you need to
bury it. Biodegradable is therefore preferred. Use soil and leaf litter to
cover the hole then place a rock on top to prevent animals digging it up.
If circumstances and conditions make digging a hole
impossible, spread the excrement thinly or arrange rocks so air can circulate.
Avoid hiding it under a rock as this slows decomposition.
Some
wilderness areas require you to pack out ALL waste. In such areas you need to
have the appropriate bags to do this!
Remember to use wet wipes or sanitizing gel on your hands
after. If you wash your hands, make sure you run your hands under water poured
from a bottle, or in a bowl. Putting your hands into a running watercourse is
not the answer. The bowl wastewater can then be tipped at a distance from your
water source.
Which Wood Burns Best?
There are a myriad of wood types to choose from, all of which have their
own burning qualities and properties however for the most efficient and
effective burn in your wood burning stove only very dry wood should be used.
Never use green or 'live' wood as this is damaging the environment and
produces excess smoke and gases. Here is a brief but by no means comprehensive
guide.
Alder: Produces poor heat output
and it does not last well. Poor
Apple: A very good wood that
burns slow and steady when dry, it has small flame size, and does not produce
sparking or spitting. Good
Ash: Reckoned by many to be one
of best woods for burning. It produces a steady flame and good heat output. It
can be burnt when green but like all woods, it burns best when dry. Very Good
Beech: Burns very much like ash,
but does not burn well when green. Very
Good
Birch: Produces good heat output
but it does burn quickly. It can be burnt unseasoned, however the sap can cause
deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. Good
Blackthorn: Has a slow burn, with good heat production. Good
Cedar: Is a good burning wood that produces a consistent and long heat
output. It burns with a small flame, but does tend to crackle and spit and the
sap can cause deposits to form in the flue with prolonged use. Good
Cherry: Is a slow to burn wood
that produces a good heat output. Cherry needs to be seasoned well. Good
Chestnut: A poor burning wood that
produces a small flame and poor heat output.
Poor
Douglas Fir: A poor burning wood
that produces a small flame and poor heat output and the sap can cause deposits
to form in the flue with prolonged use.
Poor
Elder: A poor burning wood that
produces a small flame and poor heat output.
Poor
Elm: Is a wood that can follow
several burn patterns because of high moisture content, it should be dried for
two years for best results. Elm is slow to get going and it may be necessary to
use a better burning wood to start it off. Splitting of logs should be done
early. Medium
Eucalyptus: Is a fast burning
wood. The sap can cause deposits to form in the flue and can increase the risk
of a chimney fire if burned unseasoned.
Poor
Hawthorn: Is a good traditional
firewood that has a slow burn with good heat output. Very Good
Hazel: Is a good but fast
burning wood and produces best results when allowed to season. Good
Holly: Is a fast burning wood
that produces good flame but poor heat output. Holly will burn green, but best
dried for a minimum of a year. Poor
Hornbeam: A good burning wood
that burns similar to beech, slow burn with a good heat output. Good
Horse Chestnut: A good wood for burning in wood stoves but not for open
fires as it does tend to spit a lot. It
does however produce a good flame and heat output. Good (for Stoves)
Laburnum: A very smokey wood
with a poor burn. Very Poor – Do not
use.
Larch: Produces a reasonable
heat output, but it needs to be well seasoned. The sap can cause deposits to
form in the flue with prolonged use.
Medium
Laurel: Burns with a good flame
but only reasonable heat output. It needs to be well seasoned. Medium
Lilac: Its smaller branches are
good to use as kindling, the wood itself burns well with a good flame. Good
Lime: Not a good wood for
burning as it produces very little flame or heat output. Poor
Maple: Is a good burning wood
that produces good flame and heat output.
Good
Oak: Because of its density, oak
produces a small flame and very slow burn, it is best when seasoned for a
minimum of two years as it is a wood that requires time to season well. Good
Pear: Burns well with good heat
output, however it does need to be seasoned well. Good
Pine Species: (Including
Leylandii) Burns with a good flame, but the resin sap can cause deposits to
form in the flue and can increase the risk of a chimney fire must be well
seasoned. Good (with caution)
Plum: A good burning wood that
produces good heat output. Good
Poplar: A very smokey wood with
a poor burn. Very Poor
Rowan: Is a good burning wood that has a slow burn with good heat
output. Very Good
Rhododendron: The older and thick stems can burn well. Good
Robinia (Acacia): Is a good
burning wood that has a slow burn with good heat output. It does produce an
acrid and dense smoke but this is of course not a problem in a stove. Good (for Stoves)
Spruce: Produces a poor heat
output and it does not last well. Poor
Sycamore: Produces a good flame,
but with only moderate heat output. Should only be used well-seasoned. Medium
Sweet Chestnut: The wood burns ok when well-seasoned but it does tend to
spit a lot. This is of course not a problem in a stove. Medium (for Stoves)
Thorn: One of the best woods for
burning. It produces a steady flame and very good heat output, and produces
very little smoke. Very Good
Walnut: is a moderate to good
burning wood. Medium
Willow: A poor fire wood that
does not burn well even when seasoned.
Poor
Yew: A good burning wood as it
has a slow burn, and produces a very good heat output. Very Good
Beaufort Scale of Wind
Force
Sometimes people or
manufacturers use the Gale Force description to describe the performance
potential of products or fabrics in extreme conditions.
The observable land
effects is a useful guide to be able to describe conditions more accurately.
Here's a brief
breakdown of the scale and the associated wind strength associated with it.
Scale Force Rating Observable Land Effects Speed
MPH
0 Calm Vertical Smoke 1
1 Light Air Slight smoke drift 1-3
2 Light Breeze Leaves gently rustle 4-7
3 Gentle Breeze Leaves and twigs move 8-12
4 Moderate Breeze Raises paper moves small branches 13-18
5 Fresh Breeze Sways small leafy trees 19-24
6 Strong Breeze Sways large branches 25-31
7 Moderate Gale Trees sway 32-38
8 Fresh Gale Broken twigs, walking impeded 39-46
9 Strong Gale Chimneys, slates, hoardings damaged 47-54
10 Whole Gale Trees Blown Down and Considerable damage 55-63
11 Storm Major
Damage 64-75
12 Hurricane Very dangerous tropical whirling winds 76+
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Will Lord Interview
That was very interesting indeed and the good
news is that Will has agreed to come back on my show on a monthly basis, which
is fantastic news I can tell you.
Further Companies to Support
Uses natural fuel
EDC steel tools
Highlander Trojan
Hydration Pack – Multicam
CUDEMAN HEAVY DUTY
OLIVE WOOD BUSHCRAFT KNIFE - 111L
Alum Crystal and
natural spa products
Tool logic Survival
11 Credit Card
BackHawk Web duty
Belt
Guppie Multi=tool
Go Survival Pack
Beautiful Handmade
Catapults
1 Person BASIC
Backpack Survival Kit, the back pack that does it all
DD Hammock –The
ultimate in Travel Hammocks
Elzetta ZFL-M60
Tactical Weapon-Grade LED Torch
Ultimate Adventurer
Survival Kit everything in one kit
Adjustable Knife
Lanyard Review
Handmade knives by
James D. Sanders
Shelter
Your choice of shelter should reflect a
balance between your individual needs and the dictates of the environment in
which you are surviving. The perfect shelter for all conditions does not exist,
however, generally speaking we are looking for something which keeps us dry
when it rains, holds up well in high winds, keeps out the bugs and doesn’t
weigh the proverbial tonne. There are three principal options: tarp, bivy and
tent.
TARP
Pro’s: Relatively
inexpensive; spacious & lightweight (best space-to-weight ratio); versatile
– can be pitched in a multitude of configurations depending on personal
preference and the prevailing conditions; can’t be beat for ventilation; when
pitched correctly, provides adequate to good protection against the wet; the
“open” nature of tarps, promote a heightened feeling of connection with your
surrounding environment.
Con’s: No
protection against bugs (unless you add some netting); generally not so great
in high winds; less privacy if camping at established sites.
NOTES:
Practice multiple
pitching configurations (eg. Lean-to, A-Frame, Half-Pyramid and Flying Diamond at
home before embarking on an overnight excursion into the wilderness. This is
not a skill you want to be learning in driving wind and rain after a long day’s
walk.
Versatility: Tarps
are more versatile than tents, but they require more creativity on the part of
the user. If you don’t hike with poles you will need to rely on trees, sticks,
logs or rocks in order to erect your shelter.
Tent pegs and guylines:
A tarp should be pitched tautly. The key to a taut pitch is an even
distribution of tension. In order for this to be achieved, you should always
have sufficient guylines and tent pegs.
Four Keys to a Successful Tarp Pitch:
Campsite selection,
Appropriate
configuration for the conditions at hand.
Knot tying
proficiency.
Sufficient guylines
and tent pegs.
If you are
surviving above treeline, your tarp pitching options may be limited unless you
are hiking with poles. That being the case, it is essential that you plan
ahead. If rain is a possibility, plan on either being below tree line or
alternatively carrying with you one or two appropriately sized sturdy sticks
with which to erect your shelter.
Poncho Tarp: This
is a wonderful multi-purpose item which can act as your shelter (one person),
rain protection and pack cover. I have two of them, both of which I would
highly recommend: It is worth noting that Poncho Tarps are smaller than your
average tarp, and therefore if precipitation is on the cards it is advisable to
use them in combination with a lightweight water resistant bivy.
BIVY SACK
Pro’s: Lightweight
and versatile – their small footprint and lack of pegs, ropes and poles, means
you can pretty much sleep anywhere; increases the warmth of your sleeping
system by 5-10 degrees; when there is no rain or bugs, it’s nice to have the
sky, rather than a piece of nylon as your roof.
Con’s: In
traditional waterproof bivys’ condensation can be an issue; they can feel a
little claustrophobic (particularly when it’s raining); there is usually no
room for your pack inside the bivy.
The exception to
this final point is if you are traveling in an ultralight fashion, in which
case you will probably be able to fit your pack underneath your feet at the
bottom end of the bag.
NOTES:
There are two main
types of bivy:
The traditional
variety which is a stand-alone, waterproof shelter, which usually sports
mosquito netting and a hoop to keep the bag off your head. This is the type I
always found to be claustrophobic, prone to condensation and generally
speaking, just as heavy as a significantly more comfortable one-man tent.
The alternative
bivy is much lighter has a waterproof bottom and a water resistant highly breathable
top. Its primary advantages are a decrease in both condensation and weight. The
catch? During wet weather, it needs to be used in combination with a tarp as
the top of the bag is not waterproof.
TENTS
You can’t beat a
tent for all around comfort, protection and privacy. However, when it comes to
the question of weight, not all tents are created equal.
For all but
consistently wet or sub-zero conditions, I recommend using a single wall tent
over a double wall tent. The weight saving can be as much as 2 or 3 kg, without
unduly sacrificing comfort or safety. In regards to the performance of single
wall shelters, I can only speak as to my own experiences since 2004.
Single Wall Tent
Pro’s: Cheaper and lighter than their double wall
equivalents; easier to put up and pull down; quick drying.
Con’s: Condensation
can be an issue; prone to sag in the rain and flap in the wind if not pitched
tautly.
NOTES:
Tarptents perform
best when a trekking pole is employed as the front pole. This gives you the
option of adjusting the height of your shelter according to the conditions at
the time. For example, in high winds you will want your shelter to be as
aerodynamic as possible. This is achieved by simply lowering the height of your
front/trekking pole during pitching
In certain
conditions all single wall shelters will be prone to condensation. However, in
my years of using tents, I have never found this to be as big an issue as some
people make it out to be.
Whenever possible,
avoid camping in areas which lend themselves to condensation.
Keep the tent taut,
Avoid excessive
contact with the sides of the shelter
Before packing up
your tent, wipe the inside with a bandana, sponge or small camp towel
As soon as
practical, stop and dry out your shelter.
If the sun is out shelters
can dry in a matter of minutes.
Double Wall Tent
In sub-zero
temperatures, or in areas where constant rainfall make it unlikely that you
will have the opportunity to dry out a single wall shelter, then a double wall
tent is probably your best bet.
HORSES FOR COURSES
When it comes to
backpacking shelters, there is no one solution which is ideal for all types of
conditions.
In consistently
sub-zero temperatures or areas in which you are likely to encounter constant
rainfall (eg. Scottish Highlands), your best bet is a double wall tent.
In the jungle or
during bug season, take a single wall tent or a tarp with bug netting.
Alternatively, just sleep in a headnet and bivy.
In developing
countries, where it is preferable not to have all your gear on display, take a
lightweight tent.
In the desert, if
chances of precipitation are virtually zero, sleep under the stars. Carry a
bivy or lightweight tarp just in case.
Tasty Wild Duck
Have you tried wild
duck if not give these methods a go.
Ingredients:
1 duck
1 lemon (sliced
into chunks)
1 onion (sliced
into chunks)
Or alternative
ingredients:
1 duck
Milk (to cover
fowl)
Once your duck has
been plucked, flamed and cleaned, place the lemon and onion (previously cut up
in smaller pieces) inside the fowl. Place the stuffed duck into a cool storage
area (cooler or refrigerator) for approximately 24 hours. Then remove and
discard the onion and lemon chunks. It is ready to cook.
Alternative: If the
onion and lemon are unavailable, try soaking the duck in milk overnight (never
use a metal container; I like to use a plastic bag).
The Cooking
Method 1 (skewer or spit)
Ingredients:
1 duck (dressed)
Salt, pepper and
spices to taste
For us, roasted
duck is the primary choice. Since an oven is impractical during a camp out, we
use a skewer or spit method over the fire. It is a slow and careful cooking
process which will yield some of the best eating.
Method 2 (Dutch oven)
Ingredients:
1 duck (quartered)
Oil (to coat bottom
of Dutch oven)
1 cup of liquid
(wine, water, beer etc.)
Salt, pepper,
spices to taste
Brandy (optional)
Another way to cook
duck is to use a Dutch oven. Start by sautéing quartered pieces of duck using
available fat, grease or oil until they are brown on all sides. If you know how
to flambŽ with brandy, do it now.
Then pour a cup of
liquid (dry red wine, a soda pop, water...) over the duck and cover. Let it
cook slowly for half an hour. Turn the pieces around and cook again for fifteen
minutes (baste all pieces each time they are turned).
Repeat turning the
pieces after ten more minutes. A sauce can be made separately which will coat
the duck at the time of serving.
Enjoy!
Wilderness Medicine and Survival
Tips
Have you ever spent
the weekend enjoying a training weekend or went on an exercise off the beaten
path to a less travelled trail?
Perhaps you live
near a National Park or what’s left of a National Forest and enjoy your time
out in areas far away from the modern world.
Let’s hope that
while enjoying the great outdoors nothing serious ever happens but if it does,
here are some tips to do the best you can when you have next to nothing.
Tips for your next Adventure
Wilderness medicine
is very much an art form. You don’t have to have a PhD in medicine, or years of
experience growing up in the outdoors.
First, know your
limitations and match them to the location, duration of your outing and
weather. Also consider whether you should take someone more experienced than
yourself with.
Second, use your
environment and be creative. Educate yourself about the vegetation, wildlife,
and resources in the area you are about to explore. Varieties of plants are
edible and have medicinal properties. If you don’t know which ones, be careful
as some can be quite toxic and even deadly.
Third, time can be
your friend and your enemy. If you happen to get injured or someone else in
your party becomes ill, do the best you can to keep time on your side. This
means make maximum use of your resources and remain aware that the food and
water you carry may be irreplaceable.
When someone
becomes sick or injured out in a remote location everything becomes
significantly more challenging. Food and water get used up more frequently.
Certain paths or routes become too difficult to negotiate. Backpacks and
supplies become harder to carry and manage. Survival, evacuation or transport
of the sick and wounded becomes the number one goal.
No matter what, do
the best you can to remain calm and keep those that are with you calm. Now is
not the time to panic.
Improvised Care
Splints and
bandages can be quickly improvised out of spare clothing, gauze in compressed
packaging, and a good selection of sticks and tree limbs. In a pinch, safety
pins can be used to wrap a t-shirt over an injured arm to make a hasty sling
(while the person is wearing the shirt), or used to pin the tongue to the lower
lip to keep an airway open, and you might have to do that.
Honey, either found
in your surroundings or packed with you can be used both as a snack and for
wound care. Some fast food restaurants will have honey in small, easily
transportable packages. You can purchase commercially manufactured tubes and
containers that will allow you to pack along a manageable amount in a backpack
or pocket.
If you run out of
antibiotic ointment, apply honey to reduce infection and aid in wound healing.
Candle wax can be used as a temporary tooth filling. Tea bags can be used for
quick relief of dental pain and bleeding. Just place the moistened tea bag on
to the bleeding site or into the socket that is bleeding.
Drops of tea
squeezed from a cool, non-herbal tea bag may help to soothe an irritated eye
and relieve pain as well. Afrin or Neo-Synephrine nasal spray contain potent
blood vessel constrictors and can be used to stop bleeding. Simply moisten some
gauze or clean material and pack into the wound.
Transportation
Transportation out
of the area also becomes an art form. Using sturdy tree limbs and a blanket or
long sleeve shirt and pants can make for a hasty litter. Belts and nylon
webbing can aid in making an improvised harness to assist you in carrying your
buddy.
An improvised raft
with tree limbs and some rope, lashing or other material may help you down a
river or stream. Do not think for a second that if you can’t make it to your
vehicle all is lost. The goal for most evacuations is to get to the closest
clearing or road.
Roads do not have
to be main, paved roads. Forrest service roads are often used by travellers and
rescuers.
Clearings can be
used to remain visible from the air or allow for helicopters to land or hover
for evacuation. Most important is to have a plan and let someone know your plan
so in the event you do not return a search can be started.
Navigation
GPS devices and
mobile phones are nice but batteries die and in some locations tower or
satellite connections may be weak or lost. Get familiar with a map to easily
identify known land marks and pack a compass for directions to major features
such as rivers and roads.
A whistle or sports
horn can be easily packed and aid in alerting search teams. A mirror can also
help reflect light to draw attention to your area. Bright clothing will also
help to make you more visible.
Packing List
When considering
what to pack in a simple wilderness first aid kit here are some things to keep
in mind:
Your medical
expertise
Location and
environmental extremes
Diseases particular
to the area
Duration of travel
Distance away from
definitive care and professional rescue
Number of people
getting support from the kit
Pre-existing
illnesses that you or those with you have
Weight and space
limitations in your gear
Pack items in
sturdy, doubled up Ziploc bags. This will aid in keeping your supplies
protected from the elements and the outer bag can double as a container to
irrigate a wound or collect water.
Simple items to
pack in your backpack, hydration pack or waist pack include:
Honey, goo or gels
(homemade or commercially acquired products endurance fitness enthusiasts and
marathoners frequently use)
Gauze
Sam splint (easily
packed, multiple uses)
Bandage scissors
Knife and or
multi-tool
Duct tape
Dermabond or
superglue
Forceps or tweezers
Antiseptic
towelettes
Ace bandage
Triangular bandage
and or bandana
Safety pins
Dental floss
Emergency shelter
or emergency blanket.
Some common
over-the-counter (OTC) medications include:
Acetaminophen
(Tylenol)
Diphenhydramine
(Benadryl)
Ibuprofen (Motrin)
Aloe vera gel
Hydrocortisone
cream
Mylanta or similar
tablet for heart burn it indegestion
Antibiotic ointment
Collecting Water
If you find
yourself lost, injured or delayed for any reason out in a desolate spot one way
to keep your water cool is to use a sock or similar material (the colour
doesn’t matter although dark colours may shorten the time needed). Wet the sock
and slip the sock or material over/around your water container.
Leave it out in the
sunlight to begin the evaporation process (this will also work in the shade it
just might take longer). As the moisture in the material dries (evaporates) it
will have a cooling effect on your water. Now this won’t give you something ice
cold to drink but it will make it cool enough for you to notice a difference
and make it easier to keep up your fluid intake.
Of course make sure
if you are gathering your water from a local water supply and that you go
through a purification process to minimize the potential for other
survival/medical hazards. Hydration becomes important and increases the
likelihood for survival. Even better still buy a Purificup.
Homemade Rehydration Solutions
Rehydration
solutions can be made simply by adding one teaspoon of table salt, four
teaspoons of cream of tartar, one-half teaspoon baking soda and four tablespoons
of sugar to one litre of drinking water.
An alternate option
is to add one-half teaspoon of honey or corn syrup and a pinch of salt to eight
ounces of fruit juice and consume and alternate by adding one-fourth teaspoon
baking soda with eight ounces of water. You can also pack Gatorade or Powerade at
half strength (by mixing half the powder recommended, or dilute the bottles to
a 50/50 mix of water and drink)
Notes
Before your next
adventure invest some time in preparation, have a plan and share it. Also, know
your limitations and if you are inexperienced take someone with experience.
Don’t forget to take a camera and have fun. Enjoy the adventure and if
something happens you will be better prepared to deal with it.
Steps to Survive &
Thrive in ANY Circumstance
When we were born,
our parents were not given a certificate guaranteeing that
Our lives would be
easy and without pain. Unfortunately, most of us go through
Life oblivious to
this and are shocked when something surprising, tragic or
Unthinkable happens
to us or our loved ones.
But did you know…
A new cancer is
diagnosed in the US every 30 seconds
Someone in the US
dies in an automobile accident every 15 minutes
On average, 399
people die each year in the US due to a natural disaster
Suicide takes the
lives of over 30,000 Americans each year
100% of Americans
will die at some point in their lives
Statistics show
that we will ALL be influenced by unexpected events; such as the
death of a loved
one, a scary medical diagnosis, accidents, natural disasters and more.
So, why are we all
so surprised when it happens?
The secret to
surviving difficult situations is to be prepared!
But how do you prepare?
10 Steps to Survive
& Thrive in ANY Circumstance such as Illness, Death of a Loved One, Natural
Disaster, Terrorist Attack, etc.
Be Aware-
Where am I? Always
know the address, street, motorway mile marker etc. of your
current location.
Where are the
Exits? If you are in a building, plane, train, concert venue, etc. always
know where the
closest two exits are located.
Pay attention to
your surroundings-Don’t get lost in your phone, movie, and conversation
or life and ignore
what is happening around you.
Criminals look for
individuals who are pre-occupied, because they are less likely to be able to
identify them, and are easy targets.
Look for Warning Flags-
Does something feel
“wrong”? Are you having unusual symptoms? Is a loved one or
classmate acting
strange? Pay attention to the things that don’t fit.
Assess Risks-
Am I at a higher
risk for a disease, illness, or injury due to my lifestyle, genetics, choices,
hobbies, job, etc?
If so, is there anything I do to prevent or limit my exposure or
probability of it
happening?
Face Reality-
Once you have
assessed your risks, you must face reality that it could really happen to you.
It won’t help you
one bit to say things like, “ I’m more careful...I’m smarter...I hold my
Booze better...I
eat healthy...I exercise...I live in the read the Bible...” Bad things happen
to
people that do
everything right, period.
We can be the most
attentive parents, but we ALL turn our heads for that one second that could
mean the difference between life or death.
Wrap your brain
around the fact that it could happen to you, your family, your community, your
country.
Do your Research-
Once you have
identified your weaknesses learn about them. If you have a high risk of
getting breast
cancer, research it and learn everything you can about it. If you live in
Tornado Alley,
learn about tornadoes & severe storms and how to prepare for them. If
you are concerned
about a potential economic collapse, research survival techniques,
growing a garden,
etc.
Talk about It-
Don’t be afraid or
embarrassed to visit with your friends or loved ones about things that
could happen.
Share with your
spouse and discuss their feelings and concerns about how they would handle each
scenario.
Make a Plan-
Once you’ve
identified your risks and researched them you’re next step is to plan how you
are going to react,
if it happens. Think it through. In your mind, walk through each step.
Imagine how you
will react, what you will do, who will you call, where you need to go, what
items you need, how
you will help others, etc.
Prepare-
Post your plan
where everyone can find it, gather necessary supplies, have family or
staff discussions
about what to do, take classes, read books, continue learning, and
surround yourself
with others who are dealing with the same issues.
Have Faith-
Pray, Read your
Bible, Surround yourself with other believers. Know that whatever
difficulty you are
going through, you are not alone. God is there with you and will carry
you through the
most difficult times.
Execute your Plan-
Don’t hesitate when
you have to execute your plan. Don’t second guess your decisions
or plan. Switch to
auto-pilot and let your plan work. You spent a great deal of time,
energy, and
possibly money preparing for this unthinkable event. Don’t waste your
energy or brain on
re-thinking it, just do it!
So here is the
question
Are you going to
ACT or are you going to sit back and let life happen to you?
You have to take
ownership of this one. No one else can do it for you and if the worst
happens, you will
be the one to suffer the consequences if you didn’t prepare.
Don’t be a victim,
be victorious and expect the unexpected!
Signal Crayfish
We are just about
to start the signal crayfish trapping season so I thought I would cover this
trapping and cooking of these free tasty delights.
The season is
between April to November although they are most prevalent in May, and most of
their activity takes place at night.
Crayfish are
freshwater crustaceans related to lobsters, and there are two main species in
UK - the native white-clawed crayfish and the non-native American signal
crayfish which was introduced from Sweden to Britain in the 1970s via crayfish
farms, and subsequently escaped.
There are a few
other introduced species of crayfish, but they are not very widespread. They
are called signal crayfish because the underside of their claws are bright red,
making them easy to identify. Signal crayfish can be up to 25cm long with claws
extended.
If you're not sure
whether what you're looking at is a signal crayfish or a native crayfish, look
for the red claws - a sure sign that you're looking at a signal crayfish.
Trapping crayfish for food in the UK only involves the signal crayfish. The
native crayfish is now becoming rare.
They live on the
beds of streams and rivers and are carnivorous, eating mainly dead creatures.
The signal crayfish
can walk overland to establish itself in new waterways, and is now widespread
throughout Britain.
Getting food from
the wild is always a good idea from an environmental perspective (unless we
deplete the resource – but this isn't an issue here, as we'll see later). Wild
food requires no pesticides, fertilisers, hormones or genetic modification - in
fact, no ecological interference at all.
Another benefit is
in reducing their numbers. The American crayfish is causing problems for both
the native crayfish and for British waterways. Signal crayfish outcompete
native crayfish because they are bigger, their eggs hatch earlier in the year,
females lay up to 500 eggs (the native crayfish lays around 200), and they are
less fussy about what they eat.
Also, the signal
crayfish carries a fungal disease commonly called the crayfish plague that
kills the native crayfish (it’s not at all harmful to humans though).
Also, American
crayfish burrow into the banks of rivers and streams to build their homes,
causing erosion of the river banks.
There are bylaws
covering the trapping of crayfish, and what you can do depends on local
circumstances - especially if there are native crayfish in your area. Contact
the Environment Agency to ask about your local circumstances, or you can get a
crayfish trapping advice pack from the National Fisheries Laboratory on 01480
483968. You will need Environment Agency tags on your trap for it to be legal.
The Environment
Agency's concerns are that if people are allowed to catch crayfish for food,
they will be sold to the restaurant trade, and because there is money to be
made, some people might 'seed' rivers and streams that don't have signal
crayfish, so that they can be harvested in the future. I share this concern, so
I would encourage people never to buy or sell crayfish, but to trap them just
for their own consumption.
Depending on
whether the Environment Agency allow it in your area, you can make your own
trap. You can make a cylinder with chicken wire, up to a metre long, and bend
the ends over to form a cone that crayfish can climb into but not out of. You
can do the same with willow. Trapping crayfish is a summer activity, of course.
In winter, they will be hibernating in the river banks.
The trap shouldn't
have an entrance of more than 95mm, because if there are otters in the area,
they could get caught.
Bait the trap with
something tasty for crayfish (like a fish-head), plus a brick to weigh it down,
then put it into a stream you suspect has crayfish.
Check the next day.
Anything other than signal crayfish, let go, and don't leave a trap in a
watercourse for more than 24 hours, in case something other than a crayfish
gets trapped in it.
Let any native
crayfish go if you've caught any. But if you catch small signal crayfish, don’t
put them back (in fact it is illegal to put them back, once caught). Signal
crayfish are cannibals, and if you remove only big ones, there will be nothing
to keep the numbers of small ones down. The Environment Agency in Scotland have
urged fishermen to kill signal crayfish on sight.
Take them out of
the trap (keep fingers away from their pincers), and keep them in tubs of tap
water for a couple of days to purge them of any food in their intestines.
How to Cook them
Boil a large pan of
water and tip them in - they are killed instantly.
Simmer for around 3
minutes, then turn off the heat and leave in the water for another 2 minutes.
They turn pink when they are cooked, and look like mini-lobsters (which they
are).
The edible parts are the tail and the claws.
Pull and separate
the head and tail. Pull off the legs, then grab the end of the flesh sticking
out of the tail casing and pull. Sometimes there will be pink eggs - you can
eat those too. But give it a bit of a rinse to get rid of all traces of
intestines and food.
Then put the claws
on a hard surface and hit sharply with the back of a knife to crack them open.
Grab the end of the flesh and pull it out of the claw.
You can serve with
rice, toast, mayonnaise and/or any number of sauces. It looks and tastes a bit
like prawn. There are plenty of recipes out there (see links).
For a meal for one
person, you'd probably need the meat of 5 crayfish. If the crayfish are present
in that stretch of water, you can easily catch 10 in a trap each time.
Here are two great
Bushcraft shows for you to attend this year
The Bushcraft Show
It’s a jam-packed,
three-day event filled will amazing bushcraft activities that will take you,
your friends and family on a bushcraft and survival adventure that you’ll never
forget. Whether you come for the day or stay for the weekend, you can try your
hand at woodland crafts, fire lighting, shelter building, tracking, foraging,
woodland games and so much more. Click onto their site to learn more http://www.thebushcraftshow.co.uk See YOU there between the 25 and the 27th of May
THE ELEVENTH WILDERNESS
GATHERING 2013 15th to 18th August
The Wilderness
Gathering has over the years become a firm date in the diaries of those who
enjoy bushcraft, nature and wilderness survival skills. The previous ten years
have seen this event grow from a small event in one field with some traders and
schools sharing bushcraft skills and knowledge to a festival of wilderness
living skills encompassing bushcraft/survival and woodland crafts.
The show has grown
into an event with something for all the family with stories and music by the
campfire in the evenings and skills workshops and activities throughout the
three whole days of the festival.
The Wilderness
Gathering has without a doubt become the premier family event for all those
interested in bush crafts and the great outdoors.
The show has
bushcraft clubs for all age groups of children to get involved in plus more
activities for all including den building and wilderness skills classes for
all.
There are hands on
demonstrations of game preparation, knife sharpening, basha boat building,
bowmaking, greenwood working, archery and axe throwing and primitive fire
lighting to name just a few. There are talks on survival phycology, classes on
falconry and wilderness survival fishing. All of these skills are there for
everybody and anybody to participate in.
You can probably
pick up information on nearly all the skills needed to live in the wilderness
and prosper at The Wilderness Gathering.
There is a wealth
of good quality trade stands that are carefully selected to be in theme for the
show selling everything from custom knives to tipis and outdoor clothing to
primitive tools. The organisers have even laid on a free service bring and buy
stall where you can bring along your used and unwanted kit and they’ll sell it
for you.
There are local
scout and explorer groups onsite promoting the World Wide Scouting Movement as
well helping out with some of the classes and site logistics.
The catering is
within the theme of the event with venison and game featuring on the menus plus
organic cakes and drinks. The woodland and open field camping facilities (with
hot showers) giving you the option to visit for the whole weekend or just to
attend as a day visitor.
